My first restoration '81 Trailfire 440

This is where you can post the story & photos of your John Deere Snowmobile project.
Post Reply
Jmartz
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2023 5:42 pm
Real Name: Jeff

My first restoration '81 Trailfire 440

Post by Jmartz »

So I'm new to the forum and rebuilding sleds. I inherited this from my Father-in-law. He bought it new and I used to ride it back in the 80's. It's been sitting in a barn for about 30 years. Engine isn't stuck, and it ran when it was put in the barn.
PXL_20231112_215925034.jpg
What should be my first line of attack with it? Like I said, I've never done this before. I am mechanical and can do most things it need i think.

Thanks for your input!
Last edited by Jmartz on Wed Nov 22, 2023 10:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
snowmoer
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 9:05 pm
Real Name: Dan
Location: Cedar City UT

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by snowmoer »

It depends on how far you want to go for a restoration. Definitely new crank seals. Next would be new fuel lines and filter. Good ideal to replace the gromet that the fuel line runs through to get into the fuel tank. Mainly any rubber parts dealing with the fuel system. Clean the carb and all the jets. That should at lest get you going. Also a good inspection of all the bearings on the drive system. The site sponsor will have what you need. From the decal on the hood, you have a 81 model year. It uses a 50:1 premix.

https://newbreedparts.com/
Dan
1981 Liquifire
1984 Sportfire
1984 Trailfire LX
1996 Yamaha V Max Mountain Max
2018 Ski Doo Summit Sport
2021 Ski Doo Grand Touring Sport
Jmartz
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2023 5:42 pm
Real Name: Jeff

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by Jmartz »

snowmoer wrote: Wed Nov 15, 2023 12:55 pm It depends on how far you want to go for a restoration. Definitely new crank seals. Next would be new fuel lines and filter. Good ideal to replace the gromet that the fuel line runs through to get into the fuel tank. Mainly any rubber parts dealing with the fuel system. Clean the carb and all the jets. That should at lest get you going. Also a good inspection of all the bearings on the drive system. The site sponsor will have what you need. From the decal on the hood, you have a 81 model year. It uses a 50:1 premix.

https://newbreedparts.com/
So I have read about the Crank seals. do I need to do this prior to just getting it going? Am I going to damage something if they're not replaced immediately?
Jmartz
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2023 5:42 pm
Real Name: Jeff

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by Jmartz »

snowmoer wrote: Wed Nov 15, 2023 12:55 pm It depends on how far you want to go for a restoration. Definitely new crank seals. Next would be new fuel lines and filter. Good ideal to replace the gromet that the fuel line runs through to get into the fuel tank. Mainly any rubber parts dealing with the fuel system. Clean the carb and all the jets. That should at lest get you going. Also a good inspection of all the bearings on the drive system. The site sponsor will have what you need. From the decal on the hood, you have a 81 model year. It uses a 50:1 premix.

https://newbreedparts.com/
So I have read about the Crank seals. do I need to do this prior to just getting it going? Am I going to damage something if they're not replaced immediately?
bradski12
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:51 pm
Real Name: Brad

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by bradski12 »

Deleted
Last edited by bradski12 on Wed Nov 15, 2023 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bradski12
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:51 pm
Real Name: Brad

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by bradski12 »

You definitely do not need to do them "immediately." However, they are definitely a "culprit" to these sleds/Kawasaki engines and should be high on the list after sitting. Get your air, fuel/fluids and spark items squared away, pull the cord and get it to fire. If you can't get the idle dialed in, if it surges, or you just cant figure out why its running a little goofy, oil leak in the belly pan, fair to say crank seals should be one of the first things to replace "after" you diagnose that the sled is a runner! Cheers and good luck, it's amazing how resilient these sleds and engines are!
snowmoer
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 9:05 pm
Real Name: Dan
Location: Cedar City UT

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by snowmoer »

You can check to make sure it will run first like listed above. But, if it were my sled, I would change out the seals before really running it just to be safe. I have two trailfires, a sportfire, and a liquifire to restore. They will all get new crank seals before I even think of starting them up. The seals just did not last that long for some reason in these motors.
Dan
1981 Liquifire
1984 Sportfire
1984 Trailfire LX
1996 Yamaha V Max Mountain Max
2018 Ski Doo Summit Sport
2021 Ski Doo Grand Touring Sport
Jmartz
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2023 5:42 pm
Real Name: Jeff

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by Jmartz »

snowmoer wrote: Fri Nov 17, 2023 12:14 pm You can check to make sure it will run first like listed above. But, if it were my sled, I would change out the seals before really running it just to be safe. I have two trailfires, a sportfire, and a liquifire to restore. They will all get new crank seals before I even think of starting them up. The seals just did not last that long for some reason in these motors.
bradski12 wrote: Wed Nov 15, 2023 7:51 pm You definitely do not need to do them "immediately." However, they are definitely a "culprit" to these sleds/Kawasaki engines and should be high on the list after sitting. Get your air, fuel/fluids and spark items squared away, pull the cord and get it to fire. If you can't get the idle dialed in, if it surges, or you just cant figure out why its running a little goofy, oil leak in the belly pan, fair to say crank seals should be one of the first things to replace "after" you diagnose that the sled is a runner! Cheers and good luck, it's amazing how resilient these sleds and engines are!
Thanks for the help guys! So I dug into it and found the gas tank has a bunch of thick black stinky GUNK in the bottom of it. The fuel lines are completely rotted away, both from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carb. Looks to me like the old float off the Gas Cap/Guage has melted into a pile of GOO on the bottom of the tank. Any thoughts on the best means of cleaning out the tank? I've order a new grommet for the the fuel line and in tank filter/check valve.
User avatar
nick80lf
Posts: 1111
Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:45 pm
Real Name: Nick
Location: The snow free zone of Ohio

Re: My first restoration '80 Trailfire 440

Post by nick80lf »

Cleaning tanks can be challenging. Over the years I have tried several different things. Pressure washing, fill with diesel and let it soak, simple green, combination of chemical and mechanical (fill with solvent and old nuts and bolts and shake). The last tank I cleaned was the worst I have encountered. After soaking it for a year didn't cure it I poured some acetone in it and rolled the tank around. It did an OK job. The biggest issue I had was the area under the seat. I ended up attaching rags soaked in acetone to a piece of old tig rod and pushing them into this area to try to get the junk out. Took days of messing around to get it to the point where I was happy.
80 Liquifire (purchased 1996 ~ Running)
80 Liquifire (purchased 2010 ~ Running....Now)
80 Liquifire (purchased 2011 ~ Not running - I officially have a problem now)
83 Snowfire (purchased 2014 father/son restoration project)
78 Spitfire ~ sold (should have been shot for this)
bradski12
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:51 pm
Real Name: Brad

Re: My first restoration '81 Trailfire 440

Post by bradski12 »

A great method that has been tried and true for me to clean tight places like a gas tank is to pour in a handful of marbles and/or BBs into a tank with an aggressive chemical like gas, diesel, lacquer thinner, WD-40 or even PB Blaster. Your choice on cleaning product, however shaking and agitating the "aggregate" inside the tank will get to tough areas, help break up the corners or help to cut through the sludge. It's a great little trick...and I know I don't need to mention, but please remember to pour the marbles and BBs out when finished lol
Post Reply