boggie axles

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 8:11 pm

Well damn, I been trying for 2 hours to get my boogie axels off so I can look at all the springs and I have to replace a bearing on the drive axel. I just can't get a couple off. I've been using an impact, PBblaster, a hammer, a breaker bar, lots of cuss words, etc.....

Just how the he$$ do you get them off?

It seems like the damn shaft is spinging with the bolt.

I'm missing something.

Gary (GRP)

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 8:44 pm

Your trying to get the wheels off the axles?? Or removing the entire axle assembly from the tunnel?

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 8:50 pm

D,

Trying to get it all off. I've got to replace a bearing on the drive shaft. Sucks but may as well take them all off, clean them up, neversez them and go from there.

GRP

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:00 pm

Got a blue wrench??

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:10 pm

I've got a blue torch flame!

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:16 pm

I'm still confused here.

Which is the problem, the rear idler shaft, and suspension? or the bogie shafts?

On the bogies, it not uncommon to spin the shaft when trying to remove the second bolt. Re-tighten the first one and try the second again.

I'm not sure why the idler shaft would pose a problem.

Need more specific info.

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:36 pm

Brian, I'm taking off the shafts, not the wheels. I have to take the track off to replace a main drive shaft bearing. I've already snapped 3 bolts off so I will be looking for at least 3 (maybe 5) shafts.

GRP

I couldn't even get one of them to loosen up let alone 2.

I'm just going to cut the SOBs off and go from there. I have to get a new bearing anyway. Any ideas as to where I can get one?

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 2:21 am

Ok, I'm seeing this a little clearer.

I couldn't figure out why you weren't twisting the cap screws off with the tools you were mentioning.

Is it possible that someone locktighted the bolts? If they were, heating them until they smoke will cure that. Even the shafts you twisted off bolts in may be salvageable with heat.

As for the bearings: no problem. These are common bearings. Go to any farm equipment dealer, auto parts store such as NAPA, industrial supply, ect.
These bearings are for use with ecentric locking collars, but the locks were not used.
The bearings are supposed to be locktighted to the shaft on re-assembly.

I would replace both bearings as long as you have it apart.

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 2:25 am

How do you think I can save the inside shaft if I have broken off the bolt in them.

I don't think that an easyout would work if I couldn't get them to screw out with an impact wrench.

Does anyone have any?

GRP

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 2:30 am

They MIGHT be salvageable with heat and an EZ-out, but, ONLY if they were locktighted in. Especially if the green locktight was used. If they twisted off due to rust, then the only option is to drill them out and re-tap them.

JoeRainville · Post by **JoeRainville** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 7:33 pm

Hi Gary,

One methode I've used is the same as mentioned above. Loosen one side, and re-tighed the bolt. Loosen other side, the usually the first bolt will come back out.

Or, remove none side, pull the bogie ass'y down, out of the tunnel. Pull the bogie frame off the shaft at least a few inches. Move to other side of sled, clamp exposed shaft with vice-grips and remove bolt.

Drilling out bolts is the best solution for ones that snapped off. Use a lath if possable.

What year and model sled are you working on? I might have some of the cross shafts up in the barn...

Good Luck,
-Joe

B)

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 7:50 pm

Hi Joe, it is on a 600, I got lucky and found that the main bearing on the drive axel was totally wasted, I'm glad I didn't try to run it. I'm having a problem getting the 3 bolts off the clutch side. I'm learning how to take off the chain cover the hard way. I have to get to the head of the three bolts that hold on the bearing on that side. Haven't gotten it off yet. And I'm waiting for a manual to get to me from Evilbay. I hope I got the correct one.

Gary (GRP)

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 2:34 am

To remove the driveshaft, you first remove the lower drive sprocket from the shaft, and pull it and the chain out of the case ( this may require a puller ).
Then you remove the three bolts from the bearing flanges on each side.
After removing the alum spacer on the speedo drive side, the shaft can be tipped out of the tunnel and removed.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 2:58 am

Dont lose the square speedo drive pin, it will fallout of the bolted on speedo unit or it can possibly stick in the cable and then fall out onto the ground when moving the cable out of the way. I lost mine for about a week in the grass after changing out my track last fall. All I can say is that it was luck finding it.

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:07 pm

Hi guys, Ok, I got it off last night! What a pain in the arse!!!

I've got the new bearings ordered from JDparts. I should get them in a few days.

I've got some easy out work to do on the axels and on one track tensioner. What grade bolts should I put back in the axels?

All the boggie wheels seem fine, I've got like one or two slightly bent housings, I hope the parts sled will cover that.

guess it's time to get the wire wheel on the bench grinder going and clean up these spacers and find the jar of Never-sez.....

I appreciate all the help so far!

Gary (GRP)