Just thought i would chime in here on this thread so as to be of some help since one part of my business i run is to make decals for my product and custom work.
To set things clearly right off the bat, i have done some work for the John Deere snowmobiles for the love of the hobby and the John Deere snowmobiles - i'm not here to make money at it since it is rare i have extra time to create the files. I strictly want to pass on some knowlege to all of you to be some help...
Originally, most of the decals on the snowmobiles were made by offset printing using (silk) screens and then were cut using a "gillotine" type cutter and corner rounder or a steel rule die. The inks used actually chemically bonded into the vinyl which provided a decal which is resistant to most chemicals such as fuels and oils.
With the advent in the last 15 years of affordable electronic machinery, decals can be made using different methods in smaller quantities with less set up costs and time.
The first thing that has to happen to re-create a decal is to have a good example to go by. The best option is an original, unfaded decal which has not been shrunk. Accurate measurements and colours can then be obtained from this example by scanning. Another option which is not as accurate but will produce good results is a photo of the original decal with a ruler captured within the photo so that it can be used as a scale reference when creating the file for the printing machinery.
Files - The factor that determines which type of file to be used is the machine that is being used to print the decal. There are two basic types of machines used by smaller manufacters of decals. One type is called a thermal transfer printer. It does it's thing by thermally (heat) bonding resin from a cartridge on to the vinyl then cutting as per the design. The newer (Solvent-Jet etc) type machines use liquid ink that chemically bonds on to the substrate (vinyl). The newer machines can work with a lot of different types of files but the thermal transfer printers produce the best results when a VECTOR file is used.
Vector files - These are created by either manually redrawing the file from a scan of the original decal or photo of it or by using a high-end tracing program. Vector files produce the best results so long as the files are created carefully - just like doing a good prep job before painting. Vector files are created in programs such as Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw. The key thing or phrase to remember here is "garbage in = garbage out" . To simply scan a decal (even at a very high resolution) will not produce the best decal possible. The best results are from a file created from "scratch". One way to explain how a file is created using a drawing program is by using the example of placing a piece of tracing paper over an image and by using a pencil, you re-create the image on the tracing paper. To apply it to computer terms when creating a file for a decal, you use the scan or photo of the decal and "redraw" the decal using the photo or scan as a template within the drawing program.
Rasterized files - These are images made up of tiny squares (pixels) which are the most common images used on your PC (.jpegs, .gif , .tiff etc). These will not produce a quality decal using a thermal transfer machine. If they are in high resolution form (well detailed) they do work reasonably well with some of the newer "solvent" type machinery. The best results, however are from the thermal machines.
To illutrate what i i mentioned above, here is a link:
http://designinstruct.com/print-design/ ... -printing/
http://www.graphicdesignforum.com/forum ... d.php?t=41
Hopefully this explains the cost and procedure involved in re-creating decals. The largest cost of re-creating a decal is to create the file for a new one. If there are any other quetions, i will be glad to help out on this thread.
Greg