Impact wrench worked too good

[Herd]

Today I was trying to remove a stubborn 102 clutch off a trailfire to put new crank seals in. I could not get the clutch off with my standard Mac 1/2 drive impact with 1/2 hose so I got my 3/4 drive IR impact with the 1" air hose and it twisted the clutch puller right off. With a little tapping the clutch came off. My next problem was to get the part of the clutch tool out of the clutch. Luckily the clutch fit into my lathe and I was able to drill a hole in the center of the clutch tool an use an easy out. It did not turn easy even though it was well lubed before it was put in. I have attached a picture of what was left off my clutch tool. Anyone know of a good well built clutch puller to replace it with? With my new 3/4 impact setup I have also been able to crack 3/4 drive sockets with it. I use it sparingly otherwise I may wreck to much stuff with it.

[harleysportster]

Using the 3/4 impact gun is over-kill. It is hard to feel the torque with that size gun. The clutch puller is not designed to have that much torque behind it. I am suprised that you didn't ripe the threads out of the clutch. There are many ways to help in that situation such as filling the hole up with grease and trying the puller again or lightly heating the back sheave or turning the sled on it's side and filling the hole with penetrating oil.
As far as cracking sockets, you need to be using the heavy-duty thicker impact sockets. Try to avoid using 1/2 drive sockets with a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter on your 3/4 gun.

Just my 0.02 cents

[SpitfireKing]

Really you should never use any impact when removing your primary, I'm baffled how you didn't rip the clutch threads out as well. I'm a huge fan of the oil and pipe tape on the bolt trick, it's usually the safest on a stubborn clutch.

[JDT]

Same thoughts here.
I would have expected the diecast sheave to blow apart with BigA** Impact.

I think you got lucky.

Buy the way pullers made overseas are junk.

[ICCSF 108]

I might agree that a 3/4 impact might be a LITTLE over kill?? I'm not so sure about not using an impact on a clutch removal.. I've always used an impact to remove a clutch, yes I have pulled the threads out of a couple of Comets over the years BUT I really think that they had a thread problem before we finally destroyed the stationary sheave/threads.
We used to even put the clutches back on with the impact until the 108 series came out & we started to mushroom the stationary shafts on a couple of them so then we started torquing them on..
I have a problem with Heat on the stationary side, as one persons " little heat " could mean melting the outer PTO seal on another persons idea of a " little heat " ..
I found out that if you use a good quality puller ie: Deere, OTC, Comet, most of the time you can get the job done with no problem, If when the puller is tight or in the case of the puller being where you can't get a BFH at it to give it a tap, then the other way is to ( remember this is messy but it works ) Hyd the clutch off either using grease or a heavy gear lube into the clutch hole before inserting the puller & ramming it home with a impact or however you do it......
I have to admit the the Deere Gods must have been looking down on you being that you got the clutch to pop off. my luck would have been the puller being broke inside & the clutch still stuck on the crank..
A little " Never Seize " on the inside PTO end of the clutch never hurts & also would have keep this from happening in the first place.. but 20 years ago most mechanics didn't think about using that.....

Grumpy