Riding results.

[JDT]

I should have added steering post bushings and the brackets that mount to the frame bar and bulkhead too.
If you have 1/16" of play on a tierod end it can translate to 2" at the ski tip.
Cosines and tangents and stuff like that. It all gets worse the further out you go from the handlebars.

Paul you can sleeve the rolled end of the leaf spring, go with a larger diameter pin or bolt or replace the leaf.
You may need to replace the front spring slide cushion pad also.
I think these are available at New Breed Parts. The bonus is they fit a lot of other brands too.

[Viktory2k1]

I can't tell what is relay going on with steering because nothing is right and I swear there are no bushings in spindle for ski mount bolt. I just know it's all screwed up also no shocks and left side saddle is different then right. According to my parts manual, this serial number should have muli-leaf springs and mine has mono-leaf. I will take skis off soon and take some pics so you can see what I mean.
What will happen with the purple clutch spring when I install it(drive)? RPM engagement and shift points?
Later..

[JDT]

Best advice is to tear everything off and disassemble all the parts.
Then you know what you have and what needs R&R.

As you have two different saddles you know one of them is wrong.

Back in the day people would do whatever thay had to to keep riding.
I had a JD sled with Doo skis once.
And a Cat with one Polaris ski and one Massey.
It worked but when I was done with them they were back to as built.

[Viktory2k1]

hi
I will post closeups of ski mounting soon. I know the ski to spindel bushings are shot. I have 3" of play at the least on skis. Not tierod ends
I put purple spring in it and went around yard a few times. Here are the results:
Old engagement 4000rpm.
New engagement 4500RPM.
Now pulls the skis up from a deadstop for 30 feet or so.
I don't know the shifting yet as not enough snow to get to lake but seems way better. Yes, slight holeshot but so far-so good.
I know there are other ways to do clutch work but now I have a good starting point. I do not think the belt will fall apart soon as this sled has from the factor 45hp. I just thought it would hit a little harder. I thought it would be more but not a drag racer. I would recommend a purple comet spring to anyone who has a stock 102c. I can't tell what mine was due to rust but much tighter with new one. I still have to test it on lake to be sure...
Later,
Vic

[harleysportster]

Vic,
It sounds like to you may be on to something with the purple spring. Just be careful when you are able to run full bore and watch the engine rpm. You don't want the engine to over-rev past 7,000 rpm. The purple spring could hold back the arm weights from fully opening which would not allow the clutches to upshift all the way which could cause the over-rev condition.

[JD600]

I've been told by a very reliable source that this setup will not work with the stock "R" weights for the reason Pat stated above. If higher engagement you are after, perhaps a Comet Green/Silver spring would be a good option as it falls pretty much right in between the the stock Comet Silver spring and the Comet Purple spring. I've never tried it, but my chart shows that it should work based on the preload and the shift tension. BTW, there are 2 different Comet Purple springs, so that is also something to be aware of. Good luck, i just hate to see someone over rev an engine if it can be prevented.

DE

[Viktory2k1]

RPM was like 6000 at max before(best I could see with inaccurate tach). In theory, what would happen if it went to 7000?
So far, totally happy with it but need to open it up a little. May get good snow Monday night here but not sure of ice thickness for testing.