Best way to remove a stubborn head?

[WoodlandSerenade]

What's the general consensus as far as methods of removing stuck heads on the liquid-cooled CCW engines? I'm finally getting around to tearing down the 440/23 on my liquifire and I'm having a little trouble with the bottom-half of the head not separating from the crankcase, even with the "slight taps" from a rubber mallet.

Otherwise, all looks well so far..

[ljm]

hmmm I would suggest "harder" taps with a rubber mallet

sometimes it takes a good smack

[harleysportster]

Thread the nuts back on the studs until they are flush with the end of the studs. Have a helper lift up on cylinder as you smack the end of the studs with a hammer squarely. Tap each stud a few times and move on the the next one.

[WoodlandSerenade]

Hey, thanks guys, I used a bit of both techniques and got the heads off.
Now, all I have to worry about is how to get the flywheel off I've tried an older harmonic balancer puller, but all I've accomplished is lightly messing up the end of the crankshaft. It's not THAT messed up, as the nut still threads on fine, any suggestions?

[harleysportster]

Read this previous post.
http://www.jdsleds.com/community/viewto ... 12&t=16171

[WoodlandSerenade]

Read this previous post.
http://www.jdsleds.com/community/viewto ... 12&t=16171

Alright, I've got the clutch off, but now I have another little problem.
I finally got around to *attempting* to remove the old gasket material from both sides of the cylinders, as well as the heads. So I ran down to autozone and purchased one of those plastic-bladed gasket scraping tools, and either the material is baked on there, or just stubborn, I'm unsure which, but either way, are there any good methods to remove it? I've read through a few other threads (many of which were for the Kawa engines), which mentioned using heat, a penetrating oil, and a razor blade, however I'm quite cautious to bring a razor which could easily score the heads... near the heads. Is that the way to go? I've attached a few pictures as well.

[SpitfireKing]

I'd suggest you head to the parts store and ask for a fine rolock (sp) disc and adapter and use tat. Been using them for 14 years to clean engine parts and e Rey other thing and hey work great. Get the 3m ones as their the best IMO. Anything else on gasket material like that is more labour then its worth for poor results. Those discs would make the head look new within about 45 seconds

[WoodlandSerenade]

http://www.amazon.com/3M-HS-DR-Scotch-B ... +fine+3+in

http://www.amazon.com/3M-5540-Roloc-Dis ... B000PENFAS

Are these what I should be looking at?

[Matt]

I picked up a can of gasket remover spray at the JD dealer. I was skeptical that it would help much, but it actually made the dried gasket basically fall off into crumbs.

[Kurts]

I'd suggest you head to the parts store and ask for a fine rolock (sp) disc and adapter and use tat. Been using them for 14 years to clean engine parts and e Rey other thing and hey work great. Get the 3m ones as their the best IMO. Anything else on gasket material like that is more labour then its worth for poor results. Those discs would make the head look new within about 45 seconds

Jesus christ no. Don't ever never never ever ever use a roloc to clean a gasket surface. It's a guarantee to distort the surface, and have a gasket that leaks. Use a regular old razorblade. Gasket remover helps too. When your done you may use some 220grit sandpaper on a block to finish cleaning it up.

[SpitfireKing]

http://www.amazon.com/3M-HS-DR-Scotch-B ... +fine+3+in

http://www.amazon.com/3M-5540-Roloc-Dis ... B000PENFAS

Are these what I should be looking at?

Those are the ones.

If you want to really screw up a soft surface gouge it with a razor blade, great advice Kurt's!

The shop I worked in use these for everything, they are very safe and leave a very nice mating surface, and don't damage anything unless you go extreme and somehow wear down a spot, but their softer then the metal so your not going to see anything but gasket material, not filings. I use these all the time when I'm putting engines back together, just did a yammi 433 a couple weeks ago where nothing else would have removed those baked in head gaskets. About the only place to ever use blades are when your removing soft cork or just trying to lift an edge that you know will come off in one piece. These old gaskets come off in a million and scraping metal on metal is a guarantee to put scratches in

[WoodlandSerenade]

I've used two of the $10 Gasket removing balls from O-Reilly's with little avail, as the surface is better, but some of what I can only think is old, baked-on silicone is still hanging tough. Any thoughts?

[mn.deereguy]

Gasket scraper or putty knife I have one gasket scraper that has a razor blade on the end works good do not use roloc unless you take extreme caution only removing gasket not to touch head or you will leave gouges in head

[WoodlandSerenade]

Hmm, I was using one of those mother's powerball looking LIGHT abrasive balls and I haven't seen any damage, but I suppose I could try some careful razoring.

[mn.deereguy]

Also have used gasket remover with good results but it does take time to work and probably multiple times have heard of oven cleaner being used but I have always used a gasket scraper and elbow grease