Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
Just curious if there is a so to speak simple way to time a 295 2ax engine? I have the JD manual for the JDX4 and the 100 series but sometimes when you read the instructions on timing the engine it gets more confusing. I have the dial indicator and flashlight but still am having problems. I am going to replace the points and condensers as the no.2 set doesn't seem to want to open as far or at all, also can the cam be worn as to where it wouldn't function right? At least I've got some time till the next snow (I hope).
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400brian
- Posts: 5626
- Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: James T. Kirk
- Location: South Central Wisconsin
Re: Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
The points are not the problem ( I don't think ).
Set both points to the book, then set timing to number 2 first, then go back and adjust number one point to get it on the mark. You should have to close number one slightly to make that work.
Its a long story, I'll elaborate later.
Set both points to the book, then set timing to number 2 first, then go back and adjust number one point to get it on the mark. You should have to close number one slightly to make that work.
Its a long story, I'll elaborate later.
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
'10, '11, '12, '13,'14,'15,'16,'17, '18, 19, 20, 21, 22 Vintage Challenge Survivor !
72 400 restored, Father bought new in '71
73 X8 restored
'74 340 green machine
'74 X8 9 time VC finisher
'78 Spitfire in progress
2 '75 340S 1 running, one on deck
'78 LF 440 future CC clone
'73 Skiroule RTX 440, 500 mi.
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400brian
- Posts: 5626
- Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: James T. Kirk
- Location: South Central Wisconsin
Re: Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
This is why the dealers were SCREAMING for CDI for the '75 model year. They were sick and tired of paying their mechanics by the hour to futz with the timing on the engines.
I have timed three point engines: '72 340, '74 340/5, and a '74 440/22. In each case, I couldn't get number two in time by adjusting the points. The first time I assumed the points were worn, but the next two had new points, so I was forced to conclude that it was not a fluke, and if I was doing something wrong, I was doing it very consistently!
I took a step back and tried to logically examine the problem like a pointy eared Vulcan.
1) The pistons should be 180 degrees apart, and that shouldn't change ( you can check that).
2) The points are attached to the breaker plate 180 degrees apart, and that doesn't change.
3) The only adjustments are the gap of the points, which does advance or retard the timing, and the position of the breaker plate, which advances or retards both points at the same time.
Logically, putting number one cylinder in time, should put number two very close. But in each case, I needed to open number two point farther than possible to get it in time. You would like both cylinders to be in time, and both points to have close to the same gap setting.
If you rotate the breaker plate to put number two in time, then go to number one and adjust the points, I think you will most likely have to close those points, which works until they are closed.
Right now, my guess is that I am setting number one point too wide.
I have timed three point engines: '72 340, '74 340/5, and a '74 440/22. In each case, I couldn't get number two in time by adjusting the points. The first time I assumed the points were worn, but the next two had new points, so I was forced to conclude that it was not a fluke, and if I was doing something wrong, I was doing it very consistently!
I took a step back and tried to logically examine the problem like a pointy eared Vulcan.
1) The pistons should be 180 degrees apart, and that shouldn't change ( you can check that).
2) The points are attached to the breaker plate 180 degrees apart, and that doesn't change.
3) The only adjustments are the gap of the points, which does advance or retard the timing, and the position of the breaker plate, which advances or retards both points at the same time.
Logically, putting number one cylinder in time, should put number two very close. But in each case, I needed to open number two point farther than possible to get it in time. You would like both cylinders to be in time, and both points to have close to the same gap setting.
If you rotate the breaker plate to put number two in time, then go to number one and adjust the points, I think you will most likely have to close those points, which works until they are closed.
Right now, my guess is that I am setting number one point too wide.
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
'10, '11, '12, '13,'14,'15,'16,'17, '18, 19, 20, 21, 22 Vintage Challenge Survivor !
72 400 restored, Father bought new in '71
73 X8 restored
'74 340 green machine
'74 X8 9 time VC finisher
'78 Spitfire in progress
2 '75 340S 1 running, one on deck
'78 LF 440 future CC clone
'73 Skiroule RTX 440, 500 mi.
Re: Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
Thanks for the idea, I'll give that a try although I'm going to put in the new point that I have as it looks like the no. 2 set might of gotten bent at one time which would also make it harder to set. I know it's not impossible as I've done it before just that it's been a while back and when you don't have any snow in the winter you forget how things go.
Re: Timeing a 73 JDX4 295 2AX
Brian, you the man! I took the fan shroud and breaker plate off and found that the no. 2 points were bent where they wouldn't open all the way, I straightened them out brought the no. 2 cyl. to TDC and set the points to .16 then went and set no. 1 at .16 put the fan belt back on and walla it fired up on the first crank. I had to adjust the choke a little as I had put a Mikuni VM30 on it but as of now it work like a charm. Once again thank you very much for your input. Now on to the sportfire!!