76 JD 300 starts but dies out

[big jeff]

new guy just got a 76 JD 300 having problems will start but dies I removed carb cleaned it and in staled now I am going to remove fuel tank and clean it has a Kohler K295- 2ax engine with a walbro wdb 31 carb any help in finding parts or repair help is greatly appreciated thanks Big jeff

[JDT]

If you do not know the history on this machine or it has not been run in several years you will need to replace the crank seals.

Very easy job on the Kohler twin.

You will need a clutch removal tool and a flywheel puller.

If you do not know what this two tools are ask.
Using the wrong tool can ruin the clutch or flywheel.

[big jeff]

its getting plenty of gas I pulled the return fuel line a good flow

[JDT]

That does not mean your seals are good.

[big jeff]

Thanks Todd I thought if it has good fuel flow that would eliminate thinking about the crank seals as in( bad seals no fuel flow) it has the kohler 295 with walbro wdb 31 carb I removed the carb cleaned and set the metering valve arm to proper setting of 5-20 thousands. installed and still run and die. checked the cylinder compression both at 145. I would like to eliminate the easy stuff first before doing the crank seals. and for future reference what type of tools are the fly puller (in the manual on line it looks like a harmonic balancer puller) and clutch removal tool ? I am a heavy duty truck mec and have just about every tool known to man . thanks for any help Jeff

[big jeff]

also how do you test to find out if the seals are bad and does a 1976 have cdi ignition ? thanks Jeff

[JDT]

Seals only cost $10 for a pair.
It is not worth the gamble that they may be good.
Even if they test good but are 20 yeras old the can fail in minutes of getting the sled running.

No you do not have CDI on your 300.

Yes, harmonic balancer puller to snatch the flywheel of the crank.

The clutch is a friction fit on the crank with a retainer bolt.
The puller is a threaded bolt that turns into the clutch sheeve and bottoms out on the end of the crank.
Then when you tighten it up just a little bit more, the clutch assy pops off.

You can used grease and a regular bolt if you do not have the correct puller.

[big jeff]

Todd thank you so much. I did more inspection today found oil leak at the crank seal on the clutch side so I agree with you its a cheap fix to avoid a break down later. Now I will have to order seals. my next question is how did u press the clutch back on the shaft ? its been over thirty years since I set points though I still have all my special distributor tools. I assume I will have to reset the points and time it. I guess I cannot complain I only paid $80.00 for it on Thursday and other than a few minor problems it is in good shape., thanks for all your help Jeff

[Matt]

You can mark the alignment of the stator plate to avoid having to re-time it before you take it off. It's a good idea to file the points while you are in there to make sure they are clean. The clutch and flywheel get pressed back on just by torquing the retainer bolts to the correct spec.

[big jeff]

Again thanks so much Matt I put a inline fuel pump (I use for priming old Detroit diesel engines) and ran the engine the carb still has problems but now I know for sure its a fuel supply problem as why it would start and die. I believe its the crank seals like you said . I already ordered new seals now I need to order a carb rebuild kit if that doesn't do it maybe I will change the carb. Thanks Jeff

[JDT]

You may find that once the seal issue is put to bed it will run fine without further carb work other than a good cleaning of the carb insides.

[big jeff]

I hope your right thanks for all your help Todd Jeff

[big jeff]

Todd is the thread inside the clutch a standard size ? looks like 9/16 18 or is this some thing that I have to buy as in a clutch removal tool Thanks Jeff

[big jeff]

ok it was 9/16 18 thread I got a 4 inch grade 8 bolt 9/16 +18 at the hardware store and I cut some of 5/16 none threaded rod about an inch and a half shorter than the out side of the clutch slid it into the center followed by the 9/16 bolt. I tightened it until the clutch popped off. total cost was $5.00 for the bolt. Jeff

[JDT]

Save that bolt for use on your next sled Jeff.

There are more Deere in you future.