79 TrailFire 340 Electrical Issues

[NDR]

Hey Everyone! I am new to this forum and to JD sleds in general. I was very excited to find a forum like this to hopefully get some questions answered. I acquired the sled from a family friend about 4 years ago for free. I had said that it was pretty neat that they had a complete sled like that and eventually they wanted to clean up around the barn so I saved it from the junkyard. The sled is complete, rough but all there. It sat under a tarp outside for probably 15 years. I got it home and drained the fuel (water actually) and put new gas in. I cleaned the carb and it actually fired right off. I got it in the spring so I tore the thing apart and cleaned up the motor, chain case and fixed some suspension issues. I started it various times throughout the summer and let it run a bit in the barn. When winter came i got it out and puttered around in some marginal snow. The first big snow I got it out, it fired off then started sputtering and died. It has not started since as I lost spark. Through all of my projects I have not dealt with electrical things very much so I'm struggling with what to do next. I ordered a new ignition coil for it but it did not fit. (had only 2 plugs on it, the harness has 3. I think it was for a 440?) I got the voltage tester out to see if my mag coils were putting out any voltage. The wires coming out of the motor have 5 volts AC when I pull it over. I have around 200 volts AC at the 3 wires coming from the CDI that hook to the ignition coil. (I do not know if this is a good way to test this) I do not know the correct resistance readings for the ignition coil or how to properly test if it is functional. Any and all help would be appreciated, I would really like to get it running for this winter and begin repainting to fully restore it.

[harleysportster]

Welcome aboard.. if you know how to use an OHM meter, here are the ohm specs for the stator and coils. If they check out, the cdi box is bad.
Good luck,

[NDR]

Thank you for the response! That was exactly what I was looking for. I apologize for my slow response. I had a busy weekend. The coils checked out. My ignition coil is a bit on the high side but its not terribly higher than the +20%. I'm guessing the CDI is the culprit. I found some different options on ebay. Some are generic others are used Deere originals and one is brand new (or so they say). The chinese ones are much cheaper but the pics do not really give a good representation of what you are actually buying. A lot of the used ones do not look like they have the correct hook up for the wiring harness. The ignition coil leads are the there but not the plug for the lighting and kill switches. I did find one that was correct. I don't know if I really like the idea of buying a used one. I don't want to play this game again in a year. Will a generic CDI work? Will the brand new one fit? It does not specify model just says 79-82 Kawasaki. All input is greatly appreciated. Thank you for helping me out!

New Deere:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-1979 ... be&vxp=mtr

Used Deere:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-John-Deere ... ad&vxp=mtr

Wrong Plug???:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-JOHN-DE ... 27ccc66b40

Generic:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nachman-01-143- ... 2e&vxp=mtr

[harleysportster]

The picture from Ebay (wrong plug) is the correct cdi box. There are 2 male spade connectors/plus a ground wire which must be removed from the plastic engine terminal block. A new cdi box does not come with the plastic engine terminal block. It is up to you what to buy but buying used, you are taking a chance of future failure.
The ebay listing for the Kimpex is the correct part number (01-143-20) but not the correct picture. Kimpex is the only aftermarket manufacture that is well known.

[nick80lf]

I'm pretty sure the one that you have listed as new Deere is actually a Kimpex CDI. Marschal is an aftermarket parts distributor. They sometimes put the equivalent OEM number on their sticker for reference.

Edit: The item details say the brand is SPI and that listing is very misleading. The 01-143-19 part number is the secondary coil not the CD I.


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[Matt]

The one you listed as Generic is the correct aftermarket one. I have one sitting here as part of New Breed Parts inventory. However, buy the one on ebay, because it's priced wrong. That's less then dealer cost and very, very cheap for them.

[WinnipegStPaul9]

Nick, you mentioned that you "cleaned up the motor". Did that include replacing crankshaft seals? If not you'll want to do that soon.

DA

[NDR]

Thank you for all the help! I ordered the cheaper CDI off of ebay. It came on Friday and I got it put in today. After a carb cleaning and some fresh gas it lives again! I have it as tuned as I can get it with out some snow. The motor had to have been gone through at some point before I got it. I can't remember what the compression was but I tested it when I acquired the sled 3 years ago and it was well with in spec according to the manual. Looking in the spark plug holes the pistons look pretty clean on the dome. I don't want to start breaking gaskets because I don't want to have to find new ones. Any tell tail signs the crank seals need to be replaced? The sled idles and revs fine as of right now. The next step at the moment is hood repair. I don't have any experience with fiberglass repair but I guess it's time to learn. Again, Thank you for the help. I am really excited to get this sled cleaned up. I will post some pics of what I'm dealing with when I get it back together.

[ljm]

I would strongly suggest replacing the crank seals. Old seals break down quick.

[JDT]

Nick compression has nothing to do with crankseal condition.

What are the signs of seal failure?
"For Parts Only" is a sign often seen on a sled with neglected crank seals.

You do not need to break the gaskets to change crank seals.
It will be the best $10 you will spend on the sled.

[Jd sled rider]

It is quick and easy to do you can have it out torn down and back together in an afternoon. The seals are like 3 dollars a piece from new breed parts. Some yamabond and it will last for years! Or you can sell it for parts later. Seals are the first thing I do when I purchase a sled. Then I see if it will run. Besides you will learn a little about the machine. Later lincoln

[nick80lf]

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1413771321087.jpg[/attachment]

Here's a good reason to start by replacing the crank seals.

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[SIIaCanuck]

Nick,

Is that how it was when you found it? Did it run?

[NDR]

Sorry for the slow replies, I can't seem to get the forum to work on my phone and I don't get on my computer much. When I received the sled it ran with new gas after a carb clean and new plugs. When I was talking about breaking seals I meant I never opened the motor up to look at pistons and cylinder walls. I have replaced crank seals on several two stroke bikes so I know the process. I do not have the necessary pullers to pull the flywheel or the clutch. So this repair/preventative maintenance is going to get a bit more pricey than I wanted to take on. Looking in the sparkplug holes the pistons look surprisingly clean, as do the exhaust ports. given how well it runs and starts and the overall cosmetic look of the motor itself I feel like the motor may have been gone through. As I said I did not purchase the sled. I got it from an old family friend. He told me that it ran when he parked it next to the barn but it did not get ridden the next winter and everyone kinda forgot about it.

[NDR]

So I did decide to take the advice and replace the crank seals. I found the pullers I needed at my work place so I was able to get the fly wheel and clutch pulled. I have the motor out and the bottom pulled off. Inside looks good, although the counter weight on the flywheel side of the crank is a bit discolored and it was pretty dry. I think my seal was probably leaking on that side. All the bearings are good with no play. Since I am already this far in I think it would be best to just replace all my gaskets. I think there was a little bit of leakage around the base gaskets. I don't want to take any chances on that becoming a problem. I just want to be sure that this kit has all the necessary parts, I know it says it does but I don't want to pay for shipping twice:

http://www.newbreedparts.com/newbreed/i ... duct_id=70

Thank you for all of the help guys, It has been greatly appreciated.