tools, techniques, shortcuts, bargains

[eppjd]

Results of my rebuilt idler wheels, using the jig I made...

[paulragan]

Stuborn clutch? If ypur puller wont remove it simply take your grease gun pump it about half full thread the puller back in put your handy dandy impact on it and it will pop right off, thy hydrulic force when the puller trys to compress the grease will pop the clutch off lickity split

[Horicon Joe]

Lots here

http://vintagesleds.com/bs/index.php/to ... msg1283161

[JDX4Life]

I need to buy a compression tester. Does anybody have any recommendations or is one as good as the next?

[acesillini06]

I think they are pretty equal. Harbor freight has them cheap

[JDT]

If you buy a cheap one compair your readings against a known accurite one.

A buddy has a El' Cheapo one that was made in china.
It reads 30 lbs high at 140 psi.
All his enigines test great!

[buckeyetrailfire]

I would recommend OTC brand. I am a automotive technician and that's what I have model 5606 it works good cost is about $55-60 on amazon with free shipping.

Mark

[Liquifire 4/6]

When working on old sleds, I often find myself needing to cut sheet metal or sheet aluminum whether it's to replace damaged components or to build some sort of bracket or something. I use my band saw when possible but sometimes depending on the size and shape, I will use my jig saw. Both work fine but the real problem is how to mark the metal for an accurate cut. I used to mark the metal with a fine tip Jiffy Marker, but even the fine tip left a pretty wide mark that was difficult to follow precisely. Also, the Jiffy markers don't seem to like metal and the tips often gunk up and quit working even though there's still lots of ink left in them.
Recently, I have changed my method and now I apply a good quality painters masking tape to the metal surface and then mark my lines with a fine point pen. This is way easier to follow and has one nice added benefit. The clingy adhesive of the tape tends to trap most of the metal filings preventing the majority of them from being flung into the air and into my eyes. That is not to say that you don't need to use safety goggles while cutting metal because you definitely still need eye protection, but you do get way less metal cuttings hitting your lenses. And some of my goggles aren't very well sealed on the sides of them and with using the tape method, I get virtually nothing coming in from the side openings of the goggles.

I do not use any sort of cutting fluid when cutting sheet metal because it really messes up the mark I need to follow. I just cut at a lower speed and the blades seem to last quite long. Certainly cutting fluid would lengthen the life of the blades but it really makes it difficult to cut accurately as the fluid tends to dissolve the marking.

[nick80lf]

I have modified a little 1 gallon gas can by adding 2 of the push in fuel fittings. The yellow fuel line has a pickup (non check valve). The clear line is just a vent. When I go start an engine I connect the yellow line to the fuel pump turn on both shut off valves, connect a mityvac to pressureize the can. This will fill the carburetor bowl(s). Then I carefully vent the the pressure and remove the mityvac. The engine can then be run on off the fuel can if desired.

For me the main purpose is to keep me from pulling my guts out at the beginning of the season since I drain all the fuel for summer storage. I find myself using it to also suck the last bit of fuel from the tank our drain a line by pulling vacuum on the can instead of pressurizing it.[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1419809501913.jpg[/attachment]

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[deerehunting]

Just curious if anyone has tried making a comet 102c clutch puller, I thought about trying a hardened bolt milled down to the top threads. Not sure if it'll work, any input? Thanks, Matt

[elkandbison]

Easy way to remove your handlebar grips by using compressed air. Put air nozzle in the hole on the end of one grip and seal the other grips hole. The grips will come right off,You might have to twist a little. be careful when using the compressed air. Use safety glasses and gloves.

[69camaro]

Yes, that works great. I have a heat gun and for the stubborn ones some heat applied help if they don't want to come right off. Usually the first one comes off easy but you can't always get a tight fit for the second one with the air so it seems like I usually have to heat up the second one first before the air.

Matt, Dennis Kirk sells those clutch pullers for around $30. They work on all Deere's with a comet clutch and also work on most Polaris Indys up to at least 97.

[jep_800]

I was extremely disappointed in how grimy and dirty my sleds got when I pulled to Waconia last winter, so here's a cheap way I installed a salt shield to my trailer. I think I got about $65 in the lumber, hardware, flashing, and stain/varnish. With the two - 2x6, plus the aluminum flashing, it reaches a height that gets over the front bumper. That's fine, as the covers reach part way down the belly pan, so now I shouldn't have any salt and road grime all over the skis, and belly pan & skids. Maybe the back end of the skids, but that would be minor.

[JoeRiver6]

Hello im new here.......i do fair amount of work on carbs of small engines that have problems do to this cheap grade of gas that we get at the pump now.........one thing that i found that does a good job of cleaning out float bowls and jets is CLR......its fairly cheap and does a much better job than carb spray......i just put all the needles and jets in the float bowl after removal and fill it with CLR with in 15 minutes most is clean.........on the down side . if you leave brass fittings in to long they will turn black......doesnt hurt them just discolored but usually they dont need to be in that long anyway.

[gpuller]

I've found what works best for me on carbs is Evinrude Engine Tuner. It foams and clings to carb parts and eats old varnish really good. The brass jets come out bright and shiny.