Can't figure out what I am over looking

[Steven Rempel]

Sorry for the vague title, I have a 73 jdx4 kohler 295 2ax. has being sitting for 6 plus years but unclear after that.

this motor has 100 psi and 105 psi
timing has been set with a dial indicator.
points are old but cleaned and set with feeler gauge as per service manual
plugs gap set as per service manual and when running plug look nice and tan, plug are new about 5hrs
new carb gasket kit
metering arm set as per manual with a new rubber tip needle thinge.
new fuel lines and pick up in tank 40:1 mixed fuel
all the lights work but the speedo does not
tach works
low idle 1 turn out
high speed about 1 turn out
new engine seal mag and pto

ok so after all that I got it running it will hold a good idle about 2400 rpm via the tach, when you hit the throttle to WOT it has a slight bogg but I believe it just a poor clutch worn and old, but has been cleaned. so it will run right up and sound good and even. I tuned it while under load and comparing it to the other sled with same motor I am happy. Pulls good and responds as expected.

I shut it down by letting it idle down and run for a true min. then turn it off, If i go to try to restart within the first 5 min it will start up and be just fine. where the problem is after about 10 plus it is very hard to get started. like its flooded. still have spark. I will always end up having to pull the crank bolts near the bottom and pull it over a few times then it will pop and I repeat until it almost wants to run. reinstall bolts and start. it will take a few to get started. Also after sitting for night if I just pull to start it needs a prime but I have to be careful or it will flood. If I just try and pull it with no prime, it will flood. with ether choke on or not. If I disconnect the fuel line and let it run until its out of fuel, then wait 15 min reinstall fuel line it will need a prime to start but will run fine after all that crap.

What do I check next.

If I change the setting on the metering arm it will flood and die, any less it won't pump from the tank. by looking at the vapour return line and comparing it to other I have I would think I have it set right.

GRRRRRRRRRR.

[harleysportster]

Maybe Tod will chime in here but I'll mention a few things. The compression is on the low side for a strong running engine. Worn crank seals could cause the no start when warmed up. When were they changed in the past?

[Steven Rempel]

seals were changed within the last 5 hours of run time. I saw in my notes that I have not done a leak down test after seal change. I have to do this today.

and yes compression is low but when running it is strong enough to move quite good in the snow and will break the track lose if i want it to. I will see my shop notes about compression they might have gone down from when I picked it up. which sucks but this sled only needs to run a few times a year for the kids to learn to drive. I only have seals and a carb kit 25$ into this other wise a free sled.

[HoosierDeereMan]

There was some discussion along time ago regarding the Walbro needle and seat. The original needles were steel tipped. The aftermarket kits had a viton (rubber) tipped needle. Guys were having problems with the viton tips not seating and causing the carburetor to flood.

Troy

[Steven Rempel]

I now remember that discussion. I will try it with an old one and see what changes.

I have some other testing to do first. thanks for your help hoosier and harley.

I tried again to reset the carb metering arm and found a ever so slight twist or warp to the metering arm. I straightened with pliers and reset the metering arm to a hair lower than I had it before. Took a few tries to get that right. Reinstalled and it took a prime to start and did not want to idle any more. Adjusted the low idle screw but has little to no impact. either will run at 2800 or more, or fall flat and die.

I have a few thing to test for and try, will get back to this later.

going to try a leak down first and go from there.

[HoosierDeereMan]

I'm thinking the body of the metering arm itself has a slight arch to it. If you straightened out the arch in the arm, you may have ruined the arm. The only adjustment you should make is bending the tab at the fork end where the head of needle rides.

Troy

[Steven Rempel]

Yes that arch is not what I straightened out, if I put the metering lever on the work bench and looked the long way from the arch to the fork. The arch had a slight offset to the one side with a very slight twist like a screw, very slight. I fix that twist and when I put it back on I am not sure but I thought it was now pivoting on the arm a bit nicer, it might be that it was binding on the pivot shaft and causing the issue.

This was the only thing I did along with a ever so slight lowering of the metering arm then before. I used a spare choke butterfly like in some photos I have seen. this has been giving me my best results.

I then got sled started and good and warm. Then set idle. when warm. last time I forgot about that step. now it will idle at about 2700 rpm and hold when good and warm. I think the compression issue is also why it does not want to idle until warm.

I took it out of a test run and everything seemed fine. parked it outside in front of shop, let cool for about 10 min, its -28C outside. started first pull. went for mile long test run, shut down for fuel, started first pull again. Will try to start after snow melts off in shop, later tonight.

[JDT]

In your first post you said lights work but speedo does not.

You mean the speedo light or the speedo itself does not work?

You maybe on to something with the arm hanging up on the pivot pin.
Been frustrated by that before.

[Steven Rempel]

light on speedo does not work, and the speedo was working for 5 min but on first trail run it stopped working. But that is most likely that little shaft at the 90deg drive. man I am having trouble thinking what these parts are called today... right like it only today.

I want back to shop this evening, shop temp is plus 8 indoors. Primed for a good time and fired right up, then died, 8 more pulls and ran ok until it warmed up and then it runs much better.

so I am going to call this done and ready for the kids next weekend. I need to get to my JDX 4 Special project it killing me, but if I cut corners now I will regret it.