Trailfire Drive Bearing Help

[Cdnturboz]

Putting the drive bearings back together on the Trailfire today. Been awhile and can’t remember which way the bearings go, on the chaincase side I believe the small flange that sticks out on the bearing goes towards the chaincase like this:

For the speedometer side I can’t remember which way is proper - does the flange face outwards or inwards towards the chaincase side:


This:

Or this :

It seems less loose if in have the flange pointed inward

Thanks

[nick80lf]

You want the locking collar sides of all the bearings pointing towards the chaincase. The only bearing that will actually use a locking collar is the secondary clutch side of the jackshaft.

[snowmoer]

The bearing on the speedometer side has the flange pointed inward like the second picture. There should be a locking collar on this one also. They originally did not have one on the 79-81 sleds. After a bunch of miles, the drive shaft was worn because the bearing was not tight on the shaft. Deere added the locking collar on the 82-84 sleds. I had to replace the drive shaft, bearing, and add the locking collar on my 80 Sportfire back in the day because of this problem.

[High Top]

Interesting. I will have to investigate my machines and see if they have the other collar or not. I love this site for info like this…… plus we can all search for it 10 years from now and easily find it still. Might save us lone wolves on the outskirts of snow territory some heartache and used parts hunting where there are not many used parts to be found.

[Cdnturboz]

Thanks so I was at least right with the chaincase side - where does the locking collar go then on the Speedo side? Against that flange? It’s strange as mine isn’t an 82 and doesn’t have the locking collar - that’s not to say it wasn’t changed previously

[snowmoer]

The locking collar goes over the flange on the bearing. You turn the collar until it locks on the flange. Then turn the set screw in the collar in until it is tight. The collar is off set a little. This is what locks the bearing to the driveshaft.

Someone could have changed out the drive shaft bearings and not replaced the locking collar. My Sportfire had over 4000 miles on it when I got rid of it. It was on its third set of drive shaft bearings. They take a beating and just did not last.

Also, on the 82-84 sleds, John Deere added a grease zerk on the bearing holder. The bearing was still a sealed bearing but had a small weep hole in it. John Deere must have thought that grease would go into the weep hole. Well, it doesn't! There is nowhere for the air or old grease to flow out of the bearing unless the bearing seal is blown.

[Cdnturboz]

Thanks - yeah mine has the grease zerk / I saw on the old bearing the small hole

[Cdnturboz]

Thanks for all the help so far - got the driveshaft all back in properly. Had an other question on the jackshaft side bearings, particularly the secondary side - are the 82+ bearings different than the 79-81?

Ordered some bearings from new breed and the new bearing doesn’t have a flange on both sides compared to the old one. Looking at the mount on the sled looks like they had a jackshaft bearing failure at one point so I’m not sure which is the correct style. (Original one on the left)

[nick80lf]

All of the bearings should only have a flange on one end.

[Cdnturboz]

Thanks that’s what figured - I’m guessing when the last bearing failed they sourced something locally / that’s what they got.

[snowmoer]

+2 on what Nick said.

[Cdnturboz]

Sorry one last question - is that all the upper gear engage ment I should have? That’s without the two shims (there were two under the gear initially

Edit: really wonder if I have the correct jackshaft - forgot to mention that in order to remove secondary I have to half remove the jackshaft, not sure if that’s normal

[nick80lf]

It's been quite some time since I've worked on chaincase stuff but on my Liquifires I know the shaft does not come to the end of the RA014RRB bearing. The inner race width of the bearing should be about 0.844". The secondary shaft is turned down to go through the 7/8 ID of the bearing race. That step on the secondary should but up against the inner race. Basically the length of the 7/8" portion of the shaft minus the 0.844" inner race width gives you the lenght of spline engagement in the gear.

Looking at your photos it doesn't look like a lot of engagement (maybe the angle makes it look worst). In the back of my mind I feel like I've questioned this myself.

[snowmoer]

That does not look right. It should be closer to what the bottom shaft/gear looks like. That is just not enough shaft in the gear.

When I had to replace my jackshaft many years ago, I had to add more shims behind the gear. The new shaft was a little longer than the factory one. The big thing is that the top and bottom gear are in line with each other. You have to put a square on them to make sure they are in line. If not, you will damage the chain and sprockets really quick.

[nick80lf]

As I was passing through the shop today I grabbed a shaft from a 80 Liquifire project (same shaft and bearing). The splined shaft should be hanging out of the bearing roughly 0.400".