trailfire
trailfire
so make the hose go up hill for the gravity factor?
i dont have any gas hoses hooked up but what i dont get is with the little gas that was left in the engine first pull it will start second nothing 3 bang, boom, it was like a pattern
AND IF THE PUMPS BAD AND LETS GAS JUST FLOW TO MUCH WOULDNT A SHUT OFF VAULE BE A CHEAP FIX YOU COULD CONTROL THE SPEED OF FLOW
i dont have any gas hoses hooked up but what i dont get is with the little gas that was left in the engine first pull it will start second nothing 3 bang, boom, it was like a pattern
AND IF THE PUMPS BAD AND LETS GAS JUST FLOW TO MUCH WOULDNT A SHUT OFF VAULE BE A CHEAP FIX YOU COULD CONTROL THE SPEED OF FLOW
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
trailfire
well heres what i would do first... unhook the hole gas tank fuel lines from carb... so no gas can get to carb... then pull the spark plugs out... disconnect spark plug wires... turn off kill switch.. then pull the engine over a few times to drain all gas.. then put the spark plugs back in... connect spark plug wires.. DONT CONNECT FUEL LINES!!.. then try starting engine.. it might start because there might be a little gas in it...
If it doesn't start then hook up the fuel lines and make the intake fuel line head upwards somewhat..
If gravity was the problem it would constantly be bringing gas to the carb.. In effect if you drop say a glass it going to fall to the ground... same thing with water its going to go down... in this case into the carb... Thats why you should try making the line heading upwords a little.. that way the enigne can do its thing and suck the fuel out of the line... instead of the gravity effect..
If it doesn't start then hook up the fuel lines and make the intake fuel line head upwards somewhat..
If gravity was the problem it would constantly be bringing gas to the carb.. In effect if you drop say a glass it going to fall to the ground... same thing with water its going to go down... in this case into the carb... Thats why you should try making the line heading upwords a little.. that way the enigne can do its thing and suck the fuel out of the line... instead of the gravity effect..
- 400brian
- Posts: 5623
- Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: James T. Kirk
- Location: South Central Wisconsin
trailfire
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Guys, STOP!!! Neither of you knows what you are talking about!
The Trailfire has a Mikuni fed Kawasaki motor with CDI ignition.
The Kioritz / CCW is a Walbro fed point ignition motor.
Mikunis are a float type carb, they have a separate fuel pump. A Mikuni will not pull fuel. As mounted in a Trailfire, the carb is lower than the fuel tank, so they can gravity flow and flood the engine while sitting if the float is malfunctioning. If the fuel pump diaphram is ruptured or otherwise leaking, it can fill the crankcase.
The CDI ignition system cannot be treated like a points system, they are different.
Smit-traifire, you could really benefit from a service manual.
I admire the enthusiasm you both have, but you both need to understand what you are working with better.
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Guys, STOP!!! Neither of you knows what you are talking about!
The Trailfire has a Mikuni fed Kawasaki motor with CDI ignition.
The Kioritz / CCW is a Walbro fed point ignition motor.
Mikunis are a float type carb, they have a separate fuel pump. A Mikuni will not pull fuel. As mounted in a Trailfire, the carb is lower than the fuel tank, so they can gravity flow and flood the engine while sitting if the float is malfunctioning. If the fuel pump diaphram is ruptured or otherwise leaking, it can fill the crankcase.
The CDI ignition system cannot be treated like a points system, they are different.
Smit-traifire, you could really benefit from a service manual.
I admire the enthusiasm you both have, but you both need to understand what you are working with better.
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
'10, '11, '12, '13,'14,'15,'16,'17, '18, 19, 20, 21, 22 Vintage Challenge Survivor !
72 400 restored, Father bought new in '71
73 X8 restored
'74 340 green machine
'74 X8 9 time VC finisher
'78 Spitfire in progress
2 '75 340S 1 running, one on deck
'78 LF 440 future CC clone
'73 Skiroule RTX 440, 500 mi.
trailfire
WOW!
I think Brian has about 4 stiches in his tongue right now.......
I wouldn't have that kind of patience with this thread!
Hats off to you Brian!
GRP
I think Brian has about 4 stiches in his tongue right now.......
I wouldn't have that kind of patience with this thread!
Hats off to you Brian!
GRP
trailfire
To add to Brian, the needle and seat will also play a roll in the flooding of an engine as well as the floats. If the needle has a piece of debris under it, it cannot seal against the seat, thus a leak into the carb and cylinder.
I noticed an earlier post that mention turning the kill switch off and crank it over. that's fine, but remember that with CDI ignitions, you must keep the plugs in the boots and ground them if you keep the switches in the run position. If not, CDI damage can occur. Personally, if I pull the plugs out to crank it over, I automatically put them back in the boots and after a couple pulls to clear any gas out, I will look to see what type of spark I have (not saying this is your problem, but rather something to get in the habit of in the future).
Pull the carb apart and clean it. You might want to replace the fuel pump and start with a new one, which should be clean. At the very least, replace all fuel lines add new fuel filters. Might also want to replace the fuel line in the tank as well. Start with a known clean fuel system. To do all this doesn't cost very much and is a relatively quick job.
bob
I noticed an earlier post that mention turning the kill switch off and crank it over. that's fine, but remember that with CDI ignitions, you must keep the plugs in the boots and ground them if you keep the switches in the run position. If not, CDI damage can occur. Personally, if I pull the plugs out to crank it over, I automatically put them back in the boots and after a couple pulls to clear any gas out, I will look to see what type of spark I have (not saying this is your problem, but rather something to get in the habit of in the future).
Pull the carb apart and clean it. You might want to replace the fuel pump and start with a new one, which should be clean. At the very least, replace all fuel lines add new fuel filters. Might also want to replace the fuel line in the tank as well. Start with a known clean fuel system. To do all this doesn't cost very much and is a relatively quick job.
bob
When in doubt, I'll whip it out. I got me a rock 'n 'roll band. It's a free for all.....The Nuge
Make it three yards m*****f-er and you've got yourself an automobile race...James Taylor
Make it three yards m*****f-er and you've got yourself an automobile race...James Taylor
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- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Brandon, Manitoba
trailfire
I just spent half an hour+ reading this whole thread, and here's my thought. It's totally the pump. Here's why, and please, if I've missed something, correct me. At the start, the machine didn't run, so the pump was cleaned. Is it possible that before the pump was cleaned, it was gummed right up and plugged? Then, after having been cleaned, it was put together improperly or cleaning just allowed the old problem of crank case flooding to recur. Maybe the only reason the crank case wasn't flooding before the cleaning, was because the pump was plugged. I would say yank the pump, take it apart,clean and inspect it. If there is ANY doubt about the condition of any of the diaphrams or gaskets, put a kit in it or replace it. Do you have access to a pump on another machine that is running? Try swapping the two.
trailfire
so your saying the pump is bad by letting to much gas flow or gas flow just dosent stop and a shut off value couldnt cure it
i do have a tech mannual
by the way thanks to everyone for there time and help
i do have a tech mannual
by the way thanks to everyone for there time and help
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
trailfire
also can i get an explination on how the pump should work
i thinks thats what it is
when i take the hose off the pump that runs to the carb (disconnected by the pump) gas runs out and dosent stop but when it worked right it would shoot a small amout (pulse) everytime you pulled it which is right?
i thinks thats what it is
when i take the hose off the pump that runs to the carb (disconnected by the pump) gas runs out and dosent stop but when it worked right it would shoot a small amout (pulse) everytime you pulled it which is right?
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Brandon, Manitoba
trailfire
I think fuel is flowing through your pump and into your crank case via the pulse line. It's probably a bad diaphram in your pump.
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Brandon, Manitoba
trailfire
Try taking the hard black hose that goes to the crank case off. If gas comes through there, your pump is pooched.
trailfire
also can i get an explination on how the pump should work
i thinks thats what it is
look up to my previous posts is it supoosed to run out or shoot every time you pull it
i think its the pump to as we had similar problems with anothere sled and the pump was it
i thinks thats what it is
look up to my previous posts is it supoosed to run out or shoot every time you pull it
i think its the pump to as we had similar problems with anothere sled and the pump was it
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Brandon, Manitoba
trailfire
I don't think there should be gas there at any time. The pulse line runs the fuel pump using pressure from the crank case to move a diaphram in the pump that transfers gas to the carb. There should be nothing but air in there.