Liquifire still leaking
Liquifire still leaking
Getting very frustrated with this problem. I have read what everyone that has written about this problem with the heads not sealing and have talked about it more then once on this site. I just got it back from the same shop that worked on it before. This time round, they aparently machined the cylinders to make sure they were flat. Both cylinders leak on the front of the heads along the base and one has a leak on one of the acorn nuts. It is way better then the first time they did it but it still leaks. They even siliconed every nut, washer and gasket on the head. It started to leak about half an hour after running it. This is not normal. It is a 3 hour drive for me to take it back, 6 hours total driving there and back, not to mention food. They have tried 2 sets of cylinders, one set brand new the other re-sleeved, 3 sets of gaskets, and have had the machine for 6 weeks(3 in December and 3 in January). The only thing not changed were the heads. I cant keep driving back there every week for the same problem. Also, how many times can the cylinders be removed before damage to the rings or pistons happen? Other then that, the sled runs great.
Liquifire still leaking
try torqueing the cylinders a couple times. pull them up (very slowly) a couple pounds over spec. use a combination wrench on the hidden studs and pull by feel.
worked for me, with winderosa gaskets. (fingers crossed)
worked for me, with winderosa gaskets. (fingers crossed)
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Liquifire still leaking
How about a different shop? This is not brain surgery.
Liquifire still leaking
Wow that must be frustrating especially when you paid $1300 for them to rebuild the engine which you already did! Now you are back to where you started!
:blink:
Well I would follow Danzigs advice that he gave you on a prevous post. That worked on the LF I was working on. Had the same problem. We also applied that copper kote to the gasket rings...(it is made by permatex) its a copper spray paint.
Not sure if you could get any refund from them but I would be giving them a phone call and telling them what you think about their quality of work! For $1300 that thing should be running like a champ and you shouldnt have to re torque the heads....that should have been done by the repair shop...WOW.
Also another tip on torquing heads....
Start at a lower torque....say 6lbs...then go around torque the head at 6lbs...then increase to 10lbs....then 14lbs.....then finally 16lbs.
-Eric
:blink:
Well I would follow Danzigs advice that he gave you on a prevous post. That worked on the LF I was working on. Had the same problem. We also applied that copper kote to the gasket rings...(it is made by permatex) its a copper spray paint.
Not sure if you could get any refund from them but I would be giving them a phone call and telling them what you think about their quality of work! For $1300 that thing should be running like a champ and you shouldnt have to re torque the heads....that should have been done by the repair shop...WOW.
Also another tip on torquing heads....
Start at a lower torque....say 6lbs...then go around torque the head at 6lbs...then increase to 10lbs....then 14lbs.....then finally 16lbs.
-Eric
Eric A.
"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid" - John Wayne
"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid" - John Wayne
Liquifire still leaking
Mine did the same thing. It leaked out the nuts. I silicone tombed one of them got it running retourqued and it was fine. The heads need to heat up fr them to seal. BOB
BOB From MASS
OWN: 1 1983 JOHN DEERE LIQUIFIRE 440
1 1973 JOHN DEERE JDX8 440
1 1982 JOHN DEERE SPORTFIRE 440
1 2000 SKIDOO MXZ 600
GOTTA LOVE THAT TWO STROKE SMELL
OWN: 1 1983 JOHN DEERE LIQUIFIRE 440
1 1973 JOHN DEERE JDX8 440
1 1982 JOHN DEERE SPORTFIRE 440
1 2000 SKIDOO MXZ 600
GOTTA LOVE THAT TWO STROKE SMELL