Help on carb!!!

Liquifire 4/6 · Post by **Liquifire 4/6** » Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:46 pm

fonz, the rev limiter on my 83 Snowfire is located just ahead of the RH footrest. I had to disconnect mine when I got the sled because it was doing pretty much exactly the same thing as you describe. Funny thing is, after I put about 40 miles on the sled, I reconnected it and it's been working fine ever since. The sled had not been run in about ten years, so maybe something inside the rev limiter just needed to be shaken up with a good ride for it to start functioning normally again? I can't think of any other explanation for it.

fonzusa1 · Post by **fonzusa1** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:56 pm

Update!! When I looked at the rev limiter someone had already done a little modifying. The orange and white wire was unplugged and it was tied into one of the two white wires. In looking at the schematic I am wondering if this was his way of bypassing the limiter?? I put it back to factory and disconnected the two white wires as was suggested. Have spark but could not get it to even idle. Fired a couple times but that was it. Unplugged all wires and still have spark. Would not start. Plugged everything back in along with the previous mentioned modification with the orange and white wire and was able to get it to sit and idle for a minute. Had to have idle screw all the way in. When it does start and idle for a while it eventually stops as if the key was turned off. Could I possibly have a problem with the exciter or pulser coils that are warming up and then shutting down?? I had this happen on a polaris last year but didn't have any problems getting it to run or idle up. It would just quit after a minute or so and then would restart after the coils cooled down. I am having a problem understanding having the idle screw all the way in!

This is really a pain in the butt!! I don't want to give up but am running out of options other that tearing down the engine which doesn't make sense to me either. This is such a simple design and I'm pulling my hair out. Anyone with opinions on the wiring modification mentioned above?? Can the limiter be eliminated all together and if so, how??

Thanks to all those still hanging in there with me!!!!!

That Girl Racing · Post by **That Girl Racing** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 2:58 pm

Don't want to sound repetitive but it really sounds like a fuel issue. The fact that it will run when the air screw is blocked off but not when it is opened up says so. If this was ignition the air screw would have no effect. What happens when you choke it or spray fuel in the carb? It really sounds like a blocked pilot jet and just because it is new does not mean dirt from the fuel system has not gotten in it.

That Girl Racing · Post by **That Girl Racing** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:00 pm

Is it the idle screw or air screw you have all the way in?

427cobra · Post by **427cobra** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:22 pm

could be the timing is off. my 80 lf would do the same thing. had to get the timing light out .... what a pain that was....

:blink:

hopefully it is something simple to fix like a clogged pilot or fuel problem.

-Eric

fonzusa1 · Post by **fonzusa1** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:19 pm

Have to choke it to get it to fire and then turn off and it will idle. I have had the air screw from 1 to 1 1/2 turns out. It is the idle screw that is turned all the way in. As I mentioned earlier I put another carb on it and didn't help. This carb is clean--all jets are open, nothing clogged. I have had it off many times and rechecked. Every time I have taken it apart there is plenty of gas in the bowl which to me eliminates the fuel lines and fuel pump which have been changed out. I know that having the idle screw all the way in which is the only way it will start sounds goofy but I have turned it out and it will not start!!

You can see why I'm getting a little frustrated! Going to the shop now to mess around with it a little more. Also working on another sled so I have something to do when I get fed up with the snowfire!!

Any other ideas--will check back tonignt.

Thanks

That Girl Racing · Post by **That Girl Racing** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:15 pm

If it will only start with the slide partially up then it is too rich. Either needle and seat, wrong throttle valve cutaway,pilot jet or choke is adjusted wrong. It is a fuel issue.

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:57 pm

When you say it will idle fine, at what rpm is it idleing at?

Could your throttle cable be stretched out, broke, or simply too long?

Cable issue would explain a lot here.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:00 pm

Are you adjusting the air/fuel mix screw? Or adjusting the slide?

fonzusa1 · Post by **fonzusa1** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:08 am

Thanks for the responses. The old needle and seat seemed fine but I replaced it with new. I verified that the throttle valve was correct. Also verified that the jets were correct and replaced them. I adjusted choke to make sure it was right. I actually have to choke it a few pulls to get it started. It does not have a tach. I would guess it is around 2000 but just realized I have an electric tach I can put on it to check. I have adjusted the throttle cable and it is fine. The needle jet is correct and the clip is in the middle groove. I can get it started with the air screw adjusted anywhere from 1 to 1 1/2 turns out.
I picked up a '95 Polaris that hadn't been run for years--sitting outside. Throttle valves were stuck in carbs. Cleaned everything up. Has dual 34's which are just like the Snowfire 30. Put everything together with new gas and fuel filter and went riding!!
When I came back I had to give the Snowfire another shot. Put choke on, pulled four times, released choke and pulled a couple more times. Started and ran at high idle for about 30 seconds. Sounds great. Then it shuts down just like I turned the key off. If you touch the throttle it will bog. Have never been able to get enough rpms to engage the clutch. Idle screw is all the way in, air screw out 1 1/4. If you try to restart, it will not. I mentioned it before but no one responded--The wires going into the rev limiter--someone has unplugged the green and white wire and tied it in with one of the two white wires going into the limiter. Is this bypassing it?? If you want to see a schematic look at the tech page on jdsleds.com.

Any other ideas??

Thanks

fonzusa1 · Post by **fonzusa1** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 1:31 am

I have been sitting here looking at the schematic. If I disconnect the plug that comes from the stator, I have eliminated all the electrical components that may be causing a problem, aka the rev limiter!! I just can't use the kill or key to turn the engine off (which isn't a problem with this sled, ha!). Right? Then I would be down to the timing or the impulse and exciter coils, right? I have changed out the cdi/coil. What do you think?

Thanks

larky · Post by **larky** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:20 am

I haven't read all through your thread, but wanted to throw an idea out there. I have a 76 cyclone that has a ball style check valve in the fuel pick-up line in the tank. its incorporated in the screened fuel pick-up thingy. if you pull the fuel hose off you will see an indent in the brass nipple, its behind that. I had to remove the screen and drill out the end, then i hammered it out with a punch. again I'm not sure if your sled even has this set-up but just wanted to add my 2 cents.

deere guy · Post by **deere guy** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:52 pm

My son's F/A El Tigre did this same thing. We found that the crankcase was filling with fuel and was interfering with the impulse line. We solved it by disconnecting the impulse line and purging the crankcase of all excess fluids.

fonzusa1 · Post by **fonzusa1** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:50 am

Update!! Disconnected the wiring plug that I talked about earlier. Was ablle to get it so start and rev up to engage clutch!!! Rev limiter must be bad. The engine still shut down on its own after a minute or so. Could not keep it running. Carb was still set with idle screw all the way in. It still had spark but would not restart. Let it sit for awhile and then retried. Fired but would not run. Lots of gas in exhaust. Finally fed up and pulled the engine down. Someone had been in it before. Litttle bit of moisture below jugs on top of crankcase from sitting outside for years. Someone used a gasket sealer of some kind on bottom of jugs which didn't work very well. Mag side was gone in places. Pistons and rings look good but cylinder walls are grooved especially on pto side. Looks like someone put new crank seals and pistons in and left cylinders. Are these chrome? Can they be bored or better to try to find replacements. Problably hard to find as I think this is the only sled this Kawasaki was used in. Looking for parts. Can someone help me with the cylinder question?

Thanks

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:58 am

This isnt the same motor but do your cylinders look like this? Look at the scoring marks.