Does any one know a good way to get the bars that hold the rear suspension to the tunnel out besides beating on it with a punch and hammer.
Thanks,
Dave
81 liquifire
81 liquifire
Soak them liberaly with penatrating oil for at least 24 hrs.
Thread in a bolt and use a pneumatic hammer.
If needed, a torch will help. Use heat sparingly.
Thread in a bolt and use a pneumatic hammer.
If needed, a torch will help. Use heat sparingly.
Todd Schrupp
Milbank SD
Milbank SD
81 liquifire
we tried all of that. Heat, the oil, a punch, everything I can think of, I am starting to wonder if it isnt bent a little bit or something.
- WinnipegStPaul9
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81 liquifire
Dave, if it's bent you should see it. What you're most likely dealing with is just plain old corrosion. Todd's information is correct however, it may take multiple days and trys. Don't give up on it. DA
Feel free to check out our website www.buscobullet.com for restorations or parts.
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81 liquifire
I had the same problem ,. I tried heating actually I hink this makes it worst . Its a aluminum shaft inside steel . Aluminum expands morethen the steel, which I think makes it tighter.
Air hammer didnt work either , but it did work on the trailfire shaft.
I ended up drilling the aluminum shaft out
:eek: and making another one .
Also put in grease fittings in the cross shaft to keep it lubed up easily.
I noticed after it was all drilled out . On the inside of the tube exact spot where the arms are welded on the outside . There are dimple bumps , from the weld inside. Could also be holding it back a little.
Good luck , drilling is not that bad . Although time consuming and findind a long drill bit handy may be.
Air hammer didnt work either , but it did work on the trailfire shaft.
I ended up drilling the aluminum shaft out
:eek: and making another one .
Also put in grease fittings in the cross shaft to keep it lubed up easily.
I noticed after it was all drilled out . On the inside of the tube exact spot where the arms are welded on the outside . There are dimple bumps , from the weld inside. Could also be holding it back a little.
Good luck , drilling is not that bad . Although time consuming and findind a long drill bit handy may be.
Last edited by 80_liquifire on Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
81 liquifire
Aluminum is soft too which is a plus.
BOB From MASS
OWN: 1 1983 JOHN DEERE LIQUIFIRE 440
1 1973 JOHN DEERE JDX8 440
1 1982 JOHN DEERE SPORTFIRE 440
1 2000 SKIDOO MXZ 600
GOTTA LOVE THAT TWO STROKE SMELL
OWN: 1 1983 JOHN DEERE LIQUIFIRE 440
1 1973 JOHN DEERE JDX8 440
1 1982 JOHN DEERE SPORTFIRE 440
1 2000 SKIDOO MXZ 600
GOTTA LOVE THAT TWO STROKE SMELL
81 liquifire
well thanks all for the tips. I am almost sure the shaft is steel. I have been beating on this thing for days. I am going to try to take the whole rear arm off of a trail fire suspension I have and put it on there. Am I right on this thought. I thought I read on here somewhere that there was a deep snow suspension for these sleds? and I thought the only difference was that you take the rear arm off of a trailfire suspension and shock and put it on??? does any one know if I am right before I wast my time. Cause I also have a rear arm from another liquifire that will work, I just wanted to make an improvement if I could since I am going throught the trouble of taking one off anyways
- I500
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81 liquifire
When all else fails. I reccomend explosives and a beer. Not sure if it will work but its a good way to start a party.
81 liquifire
I have had similar problems with stuck shafts before aswell, and resorted to heating the snot out of the metal tube until the aluminum shaft turns to molten metal, and puddles out the endof the steel tube. Then manufactured a new aluminum shaft.....Rob.