79 TF gasket and seal job

Rayzors79TF · Post by **Rayzors79TF** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:31 am

Ok I have all the gaskets and seals to redo the blown ones. I bought a original comet clutch puller so I am set there. Threw searching I have seen that some people are having trouble removing there clutches and either strip threads, mess up there crankshaft etc. I have a few days before the puller arrives, is there anything I should be doing in advance to make the job go smoothly. Any tips on using the puller etc. This is all new to me so all replys welcome.

Post by **guitardude081** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:43 am

You could tap the 3/4" thread in the clutch to get all of the rust out. The reason a lot of people strip the clutch thread is because they use an impact to thread on the clutch puller. If you thread it in until it stops, put a pry bar between the spaces in the movable sheave (take care to avoid hitting weights and rollers) and tighten the puller as tight as possible with a wrench, you will set it correctly. If it doesn't pop off when you do this, hit the end of the puller with a hammer. If it doesn't pop, tighten w/ the wrench, hit with the hammer..... If it still doesn't go, get it good and tight w/ the wrench and give it some quick blows with the impact. If it still doesn't go, put up a post, and you will get a few really good remadies that will probably work.
~Jack

Post by **ICCSF 108** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:54 am

You also need to lube the treads ( use motor oil or something like that) on the puller or inside the clutch or both, better than using dry.
What works best if you don't mind the mess, is lay the sled on the right side fill the clutch hole with heavy oil ( SAE 50 or 80-90 gear lube) screw in the puller & run it in with an air tool this will help "Hyd" the clutch off.
BUT it is really messy
other wise use Jacks method, but using 2 ball peen hammers will double the blow ( MUST use safety glasses ) put one hammer head on tightened clutch puller & use the other hammer to hit the one you have against the puller, seems to double the blow If you have enough room inside the belly pan to do this..
If using the hammer method be very careful not to bend clutch puller by not hitting dead center of the puller, I use a impact socket & leave it on the puller this keeps from flattening out the edges of the puller also..

Kenny

Mr. Deere · Post by **Mr. Deere** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:06 am

I actually got mine off this time by hand. I used a rag in the exhaust port to "seize" the motor. When it popped I though I broke something I also found when I too kthe head off half of my rag was still in the cylinder.

Nutter · Post by **Nutter** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:16 am

I always use a heat gun to gently heat the fixed sheave before pulling. Not a torch. I never get it too hot to handle with bare hands. This seems to help a lot.

Rayzors79TF · Post by **Rayzors79TF** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:27 am

Ok thanks for all the replys. Hope it all goes well as I will be able to go ice fishing this year if it does. By the way here is the puller I ordered, this should do the job yes? http://www.alliedleisurecorp.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=390

Post by **guitardude081** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:26 pm

That's the one I just ordered as well for my Trailfire. I borrowed an Arctic puller to get my TR-800 off. The 216097 is for all Comet Arctics before 1995 which is what the guy who's puller I borrowed said his was for. We'll find out together.
~Jack
P.S. I forgot the lube the thread part. Thanks Kenny! If you can't get her to pop, Kenny and Rich will give you some very unconventional ways to get a clutch off. You may have a smoking crater in your garage, but the clutch will come off.