thinking about tearing the engine apart, how much would it cost to get new bearings pressed on too... or does it have to be rebuilt if you do that?
then start with new electrical too
trailfire
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400brian
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trailfire
Go to the FAQs
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
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trailfire
i only found timing nothing else? ill have to try and remember but i may have done that in the cold, could that be giving me my problems after warm up?
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
trailfire
i tryed another carb, no difference, low end bog and runs bad when warm, also i changed cdi boxs, no difference
if it was the timing wouldnt it backfire?? i am not sure what to do
if it was the timing wouldnt it backfire?? i am not sure what to do
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
trailfire
my idle does change from cold to warm, (in the manual it says timing) it runs good with no bog when its cold, then it gets a bog after warmed up
how important is that you time it when its warm and how are you susposed to do that
frustrating haha
how important is that you time it when its warm and how are you susposed to do that
frustrating haha
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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big danno 1970
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trailfire
just for poops and giggles check choke adjustment,could be hanging up a wee bit.Make sure there is about 1/8" of free play in the cable at the carb end
trailfire
not sure what you mean, tell me how you adjust it, what i have been doing is setting it to about 1.25 like the manual says
i also ran it hard, came back to put it in the shop, wouldnt want to idle and it died, restarted it all bogged up, finally got it to go but the bog was bad, after i ran it i also checked the pulse line to see if it was wet but it was dry so the fuel pump is not pulling fuel backwards
i also ran it hard, came back to put it in the shop, wouldnt want to idle and it died, restarted it all bogged up, finally got it to go but the bog was bad, after i ran it i also checked the pulse line to see if it was wet but it was dry so the fuel pump is not pulling fuel backwards
Last edited by smitfire on Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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ICCSF 108
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- Real Name: Kenny Heins, AKA Grumpy
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trailfire
BOB # 2, 
( by the way this is starting to be your new name, YOU WANT THAT???) What I don't understand is why would you only replace ( 1 ) crank seal? 
Isn't that kind of like half assing the job?? They aren't that high priced 
What do you mean the other ( 1 ) was good?? How do you know it's good? If you had it out, then why in the hell didn't you replace it??? I could say more on this subject BUT I won't.. 
You are jumping around like a one legged man in a ass kicking contest, I'm sorry but go back & read all your posts..
Start somewhere on this engine & repair that Part so you know that part is fixed then move to another piece.
IF the timing is set on the marks like it's suppose to be then it won't make any difference if the engine is COLD or HOT..
Here is a ck list Do one at a time & then run sled & ck for the same problem... IF it's still there then move on to # 2 & so-on...
DO NOT SKIP ANY OF THESE BECAUSE YOU ALREADY DID THEM, REMEMBER YOUR ASKING US FOR HELP BECAUSE YOUR SLED DOESN'T RUN CORRECTLY NOW
START HERE
1. install NEW spark plugs, IF you engine is using the resister type plug wire ends take them off & throw them away, go to your NAPA store & ask for the Briggs & Stratton Rubber plug ends & the wire end that goes over the plug & inside the rubber end ( I will get the Part #'s for you )
2. Clean carb again, ck pilot jet Clean or Replace, clean & spray all Orifices to make sure there clear of any obstructions & are open. Make sure float arm is adjusted properly, you might also replace the rubber carb to manifold adapter, If this hasn't been replaced in about 30 some years???
3. Adjust choke cable ( assuming you have a external cable that goes to your dash ) roll up the rubber where the cable goes into the adjuster next to the carb. this will let you see how much free play there is in the cable when the choke lever is in the off position. Ck for free play with the carb on the engine & the dash in the down position ( if you ck with the dash in the down & Up position you will see that this affects the free travel of the cable).
4. You said that you changed the CDI box, ( I have to assume that you are using OEM type CDI boxes & they are separate of the coil assembly ) then next replace the External coil assembly, making sure to either find one without the resister ends or use the new ones you installed above on your old coil..
IF by now none of the above worked Then it's time to look inside the engine.. USE your JOHN DEERE Service Manual to do this properly.. As your disassembling (make sure you mark everything ( cyl, pistons, heads, PTO or MAG side as you disassemble it..) the engine pay close attention to the parts, like pistons, cylinders, heads, gaskets, etc. for anything that doesn't look like it should.. ie stuck rings, seized or scored pistons, chrome pealing from cylinder walls, etc. THEN Start with rebuilding the crank, send it to someone like Jerome to Ck your bearings & replace if necessary & REPLACE BOTH SEALS & CENTER O-RINGS..
& then go from there
Ken
( by the way this is starting to be your new name, YOU WANT THAT???) What I don't understand is why would you only replace ( 1 ) crank seal? Isn't that kind of like half assing the job?? They aren't that high priced What do you mean the other ( 1 ) was good?? How do you know it's good? If you had it out, then why in the hell didn't you replace it??? I could say more on this subject BUT I won't.. You are jumping around like a one legged man in a ass kicking contest, I'm sorry but go back & read all your posts..
Start somewhere on this engine & repair that Part so you know that part is fixed then move to another piece.
IF the timing is set on the marks like it's suppose to be then it won't make any difference if the engine is COLD or HOT..
Here is a ck list Do one at a time & then run sled & ck for the same problem... IF it's still there then move on to # 2 & so-on...
DO NOT SKIP ANY OF THESE BECAUSE YOU ALREADY DID THEM, REMEMBER YOUR ASKING US FOR HELP BECAUSE YOUR SLED DOESN'T RUN CORRECTLY NOW
START HERE
1. install NEW spark plugs, IF you engine is using the resister type plug wire ends take them off & throw them away, go to your NAPA store & ask for the Briggs & Stratton Rubber plug ends & the wire end that goes over the plug & inside the rubber end ( I will get the Part #'s for you )
2. Clean carb again, ck pilot jet Clean or Replace, clean & spray all Orifices to make sure there clear of any obstructions & are open. Make sure float arm is adjusted properly, you might also replace the rubber carb to manifold adapter, If this hasn't been replaced in about 30 some years???
3. Adjust choke cable ( assuming you have a external cable that goes to your dash ) roll up the rubber where the cable goes into the adjuster next to the carb. this will let you see how much free play there is in the cable when the choke lever is in the off position. Ck for free play with the carb on the engine & the dash in the down position ( if you ck with the dash in the down & Up position you will see that this affects the free travel of the cable).
4. You said that you changed the CDI box, ( I have to assume that you are using OEM type CDI boxes & they are separate of the coil assembly ) then next replace the External coil assembly, making sure to either find one without the resister ends or use the new ones you installed above on your old coil..
IF by now none of the above worked Then it's time to look inside the engine.. USE your JOHN DEERE Service Manual to do this properly.. As your disassembling (make sure you mark everything ( cyl, pistons, heads, PTO or MAG side as you disassemble it..) the engine pay close attention to the parts, like pistons, cylinders, heads, gaskets, etc. for anything that doesn't look like it should.. ie stuck rings, seized or scored pistons, chrome pealing from cylinder walls, etc. THEN Start with rebuilding the crank, send it to someone like Jerome to Ck your bearings & replace if necessary & REPLACE BOTH SEALS & CENTER O-RINGS..
& then go from thereKen
Last edited by ICCSF 108 on Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
AKA: Kenny, Grumpy, Mr. Richard Head
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
trailfire
i replaced one becuase i didnt have the engine torn apart, replaced it from the outside
yup i read my posts, sound like an idiot, i was in such a rush to get this sled done, i have to slow down and think it through, ex. one side has a weak spark.... turned out a spark plug
that is a good start for me,
yup i read my posts, sound like an idiot, i was in such a rush to get this sled done, i have to slow down and think it through, ex. one side has a weak spark.... turned out a spark plug
that is a good start for me,
Last edited by smitfire on Fri Dec 26, 2008 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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ICCSF 108
- Posts: 4369
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: Kenny Heins, AKA Grumpy
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- Contact:
trailfire
Remember one thing when working on something: IF you don't have the time to do it right the first time HOW are you going to find the time to do it right the second time?? You could have replaced the other seal the same way ( nether side recommended that way BUT can be done ) remove recoil, recoil housing & hardware, Flywheel, Stator, (then you would know where the timing was) remove old seal & reinstall NEW seal, install stator & re-time engine per service text book, install flywheel, NEW Fan Belt, hard ware & flywheel housing, & recoil...
Kenny
Kenny
AKA: Kenny, Grumpy, Mr. Richard Head
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
trailfire
That is the side I did.. Back then I sprayed the other seal while the engine was running
Ken- does that crankshaft have to be done... I was quoted $400 to get new seals and bearings from randys iron works in orange city
Ken- does that crankshaft have to be done... I was quoted $400 to get new seals and bearings from randys iron works in orange city
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.
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ICCSF 108
- Posts: 4369
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: Kenny Heins, AKA Grumpy
- Location: Blue Springs Mo.
- Contact:
trailfire
Not really sure?? It depends where your problem is?? call Jerome see what he gets to rebuild one..
I would do the crank as a last resort as that will be the most expensive.
start out with # 1 on my other post & eliminate all the other things first.
Have you unplugged the handle bar wiring to eliminate all the accessory switches??
It's all a process of elimination, & only you can do that, we can only make suggestions, & as you have seen in your posts & the reply's you'll be jumping all over the place.. You can't ask for help & that will salve the problem, there is no simple fix-all thing for all problems..
Make up your mind that you'll find the problem one way or another & then set down & start, keep track of what you do. Start over as what you may have already done hasn't fixed the problem. It sounds to me as either electrical, ( switches, plug wire ends, plugs, etc.) or fuel, (dirty carb, choke not adjusted properly, choke plunger leaking, etc.)
It could be a bad Ign. coil on the stator but until you exhaust all other possibilities why replace that only to find out that isn't the problem..
Kenny
I would do the crank as a last resort as that will be the most expensive.
start out with # 1 on my other post & eliminate all the other things first.
Have you unplugged the handle bar wiring to eliminate all the accessory switches??
It's all a process of elimination, & only you can do that, we can only make suggestions, & as you have seen in your posts & the reply's you'll be jumping all over the place.. You can't ask for help & that will salve the problem, there is no simple fix-all thing for all problems..
Make up your mind that you'll find the problem one way or another & then set down & start, keep track of what you do. Start over as what you may have already done hasn't fixed the problem. It sounds to me as either electrical, ( switches, plug wire ends, plugs, etc.) or fuel, (dirty carb, choke not adjusted properly, choke plunger leaking, etc.)
It could be a bad Ign. coil on the stator but until you exhaust all other possibilities why replace that only to find out that isn't the problem..
Kenny
Last edited by ICCSF 108 on Sat Dec 27, 2008 12:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
AKA: Kenny, Grumpy, Mr. Richard Head
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
trailfire
well i had an idea, i set the sled outside to see if i could find something out in the cold, started it up and some small backfiring, so i looked closer, played with the throttle and got it to do it again and it was coming from the head gasket, you could see on the metal (shroud) carbon build up, this would give me a bog?? i have been thinking it does it after warm up because the parts have expanded??
Many new and used parts available, I ship anywhere. Thanks everyone.