X8 problem

JDXsand00s · Post by **JDXsand00s** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:22 pm

Disclaimer: I'm pretty sure that pounding on crankshaft can screw something up.

That said, here is a pic of my puller. Made out of a piece of steel, three 10mm bolts, and a large bolt threaded in the middle, mine has a 3/4in head. Take out the flywheel nut and thread the puller so all the 10 bolt heads are even on the plate, thighten the middle bolt and it should pop off pretty easily. If not, blast the middle bolt head with a hammer and keep tightening, always pops off for me. The second set of holes are for my JLO, but the large plate makes a good handle. I don't know exactly how far apart the holes are center to center and they are bigger then needed to allow for differences. Quick measure with the calipers shows about 1.7 inches from outside of bolt to ouside of bolt, not center to center. This is a cheap alternative to one of them good pullers but it works good for me and it shouldn't be hard for you to whip one up in your shop; i'm sure you could measure flywheel hole distance better as well. Hope this helps.

JDXsand00s · Post by **JDXsand00s** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:25 pm

note about fire clutch pulling, couldn't get my trailfire clutch off either, tried for about 2 hours. anyway, another pic

JDXsand00s · Post by **JDXsand00s** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:28 pm

final pic, nuts help keep puller together but really serve no other purpose. make sure bolts are threaded far enough in flywheel as well or you'll strip 10mm threads.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:30 pm

Ryan has that right.

The service manual expressly warns against pounding on the end of the crank.

That would apply to the mag or clutch end.

When we talk about rapping the end of the puller bolt, we are talking about a sharp rap with a fairly heavy hammer, you are not trying to drive the crank out the other side of the case.

It is no doubt best if you can get by without hitting it at all. The guy who wrote the service manual was probably not thinking too much about guys disassembling this stuff after 30 years of rust and corrosion.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 3:05 am

Here is a genuine CCW puller. Bought a pair of them off ebay 3 years ago. I would have sworn I had used this on the two engines I pulled flywheels off of.
However, one puller is missing the attaching bolts, and the one that is complete had never been out of the sealed bag, so I guess I used my Harmonic balancer puller.

It has provisions for 2 bolt circles, and two bolt sizes: 8mm and 6mm, and has a nice fat main bolt that matches the crank bolt nicely.

Anyone have a CCW parts book? 43 0790 90

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 4:22 pm

PTO side seal is in. She is running on both cyliders now. Pain in the but getting the old one out though. The seal didnt look that bad, it was soft yet. Anyhow, I didnt get any pics sorry. The clutch is a 100C and it came off real easy....

I do a have a question, I notice that the right side cylinder appears to be stronger than the left side, is this right or normal?

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:00 pm

What do you mean by " appears stronger"?

harleysportster · Post by **harleysportster** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:26 pm

Danzig,
The compression between cylinders should be no more than 10 psi.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:59 pm

When removing each plug wire one at a time. The right side when unhooked shows more of an engine power performance loss than when removing the left side. I will do another compression check tonight and see what it is. I will keep you posted.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Sun Feb 05, 2006 3:43 am

Turning the motor over with the electric start I have 185lbs. Both cylinders are equal.

The compression gauge I have is made by MAC tools.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:34 am

Well Paul,

We've been going over this for quite a while now. You are obviously teachable, my guess is that you know where to look for this problem at this point.

With your cylinder pressures even, and the pto seal replaced, why might the pto side still be a little off?

You have pretty much went from the "just get it running" stage, to now you want it to run right up to its full capabilities, I applaud that. You know that to make this thing run as good as it possibly can, EVERYTHING must be right. What is left to bring up to snuff?

When you get the engine issues resolved, then you can start on the drivetrain bearings and bogies

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:57 am

Teacher:
I forgot my apple today......

I am a couple steps ahead of ya. The bogies and drive train were already done before installing the new track. The bogies were disassembled, sand blasted primed and painted. The wheel bearing were lightly lubed and they were a pain in the butt to get apart and back together. The chain drive also at that time was drained of its 30 wt. and replaced with new. The track drive sprockets or gears at that time were removed from the drive shaft and cleaned and anitseized also. The speedometer coupler on the drive shaft was also removed and cleaned lightly lubed and reassembled also. (lost the drive key in the lawn for a week) but found it........wew. Skis sanndblasted and painted and new wear bars were also installed and the professional carbon fiber seat reupholstering....ouch on that one$$

As for the eletrical part of things that i can get to, di-electric lube was placed on all connectors after being cleaned with eletric contact cleaner.......this got the lights up and bright again...........sweet.

All the above mentioned was mainly done this past summer out in the blazing sun.

Whats left.......points, new plug wires and wire boots, total carb build and the other crank seal besides doing a complete tear down. Among other things is to tear down the secondary clutch and clean and lube and finally the best part is yet to come new paint and decals....Git er done!!

As for the left side vs. the right side cylinders on the engine performance category, i imagine it could be alot of things, such as cylinder wear ( tapered bore, possibly tired rings, maybe the gas washed down the cylinder walls which maybe causing the problem, maybe the reed valve......i dont know.

i will say it again.......THANKS for the help and more of it is appreciated because I aint done yet.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:04 am

Here is what i have invested:

Sled: 12 pack of Corona and the lime.
Seat: $235.00
Track: $200.00
Seals: $4.12
clutch puller: $35.00
wear bars: $15.00
Fuel line: Free
Paint: Free
Sandblasting: Free
Battery: Free, robbed it from the bike....hehe.
Internet Time: priceless.........too many hours to count
Labor: At this time I would do it all over again and I still havent completed it yet

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:26 am

See, you do know what you are looking for here.

I would upgrade the ignition components before considering a complete teardown.
I imagine you are thinking the same thing.

Getting closer to having a reliable vintage sled

B) good job.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:32 am

:wacko:

I aint selling it either..........