1979 Trailfire Problems

liquifire_freak · Post by **liquifire_freak** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 1:55 pm

my trailfire 440 has some problems right now and i cant figure them out! i will pull it and it will start in 3-4 pulls and sometimes it will idle but then when i go to give it gas it just boggs rite down and if i let off in time it will stay running but still wont move and when its idling it engages the clutch and trys 2 jerk forward over and over i have to hold the break, but its snowing here and i want to get this fixed and i knew u guys here would have some good advise for me to try so ill be waiting for ideas but thanks everyone and happy riding to all!!!!!!!!

smitfire · Post by **smitfire** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:12 pm

for the creeping forward you might have to do something with clutch washers in the secondary clutch, did you clean you carb recently, new plugs? how else does it act?

liquifire_freak · Post by **liquifire_freak** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:34 pm

well yesterday it was running and driving i had the gas mixed a little rich but the bog at low end was bad then after she cleared out from low end oh boy she really went like a bat outta hell these trailfires or pretty speedy machines if i ever said myself. i mean speedy for the year and being air cooled and everything but could there be air in the lines or something?

smitfire · Post by **smitfire** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:50 pm

im thinking you are getting you bog from something in the clutches, take the belt off and see if it will rev, its also easy to take the primary clutch off and then see if it revs( when the clutch is off the engine do not rev it high)

liquifire_freak · Post by **liquifire_freak** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:49 pm

hey smit i just took the belt off and started it and it idled for a sec and then just sky rocketed and i let it go for a sec and it was like the throttle was stuck wide open and i kept letting it run by choking the carb with my hand and it kept shooting way up there and then i but the belt on and started it and there was still a bog but it moved this time and i rode it for about 4 minutes and there was no bog again till low end or if i punched it real quick but it didnt want to stop very good i would have to really squeeze the brake then it wouldidle just about normal and the rpms would climb slowly and then it would start taking off again. i dont have a clue but i got 2 spare clutches but i judt really want to make sure its the clutch because i aint got a puller and it'll be b$#%h to get it off there lol

big danno 1970 · Post by **big danno 1970** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:12 pm

Sounds like its time for crank seals

liquifire_freak · Post by **liquifire_freak** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:21 pm

no no no please dony say that lol thats what im really hoping its not the sled ran all last year without any problems at all it started everyday 3rd pull with choke and all i did ws put gas in it all year never broke and im not gunna lie i give that old deere all shes got i weight 145 and o buddy when she goes she goes lol but usually before the crank seals go out isnt there is a warning or something? i parked the thing running perfect

smitfire · Post by **smitfire** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:02 pm

how far is your idle screw turned in, might be idleing high which makes it keep going, if you have it turn out and it wont idle time for crank seals, on top of your carb you can adjust the cable their, how old is your belt, read the manual its talks about space washers which keeps it from creeping

427cobra · Post by **427cobra** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:43 am

WOW...you have to be careful running a sled without a belt! If youre clutch engages too quickly and the halves smack together this can cause your clutch to EXPLODE!! I am pretty sure you do not want that to happen.

And running a sled with out a clutch isnt a good idea either....your sled will not run right without a clutch. The clutch acts as a counter balance. So not sure what information you could gain by running your sled without one...

This being a Trailfire...replacing crank seals is VERY simple. Plus cheap insurance. It could be done in an afternoon and you would would be ready to ride. Also if you plan on working on these sleds buy a clutch puller...well worth the $20-$30!!! The comet 102-C is used on a lot of different applications so it would not be limited to just your trailfire.....

Id say make sure your carb is clean and adjusted properly....then move onto your clutches. Check for worn/broken parts. If everything checks out.....replace those seals!

Rodimus Prime · Post by **Rodimus Prime** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:35 am

Ok first off these are RIBBED seals ( and for good reason) you HAVE TO split the crankcase to change them.

Second your seals are probably just fine contrary to many people on this board seals go rarely on 2 cycle engines simply because they are almost always covered in oil.

at this point i would be more concerned with throttle cable or top of carb being loose. It unscrews with engine vibration and over the course of a summer can sometime stick in carbs. Remove top of carb pull out the throttle valve clean it put it back in. If possible remove carb from engine and check throttle opening and closing.. It should be almost all the way down when viewing from the engine side max opening with throttle at rest is about 3/16 of an inch.

Operating an engine without a clutch or belt while it is done sometimes to check certain things inst a good idea to tell other people. Please refrain from mentioning this method on boards.

You can change a primary spring on these sleds without removing clutch...its by no means easy but it has been done before.

A good working clutch should require a good shove to move it from rest to belt engagement. If it goes to belt engagement fairly easy spring could be bad. If there is space between the clutch bolt washer and cover plate is also a good sign clutch needs work.. normally you would have to put a feeler guage in there.

smitfire · Post by **smitfire** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:53 am

a sled I had awhile back I took the belt off and it does not over rev, I would say you have to adjust the cable

big danno 1970 · Post by **big danno 1970** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:13 am

Rodimus Prime wrote:Ok first off these are RIBBED seals ( and for good reason) you HAVE TO split the crankcase to change them.

Second your seals are probably just fine contrary to many people on this board seals go rarely on 2 cycle engines simply because they are almost always covered in oil.

at this point i would be more concerned with throttle cable or top of carb being loose. It unscrews with engine vibration and over the course of a summer can sometime stick in carbs. Remove top of carb pull out the throttle valve clean it put it back in. If possible remove carb from engine and check throttle opening and closing.. It should be almost all the way down when viewing from the engine side max opening with throttle at rest is about 3/16 of an inch.

Operating an engine without a clutch or belt while it is done sometimes to check certain things inst a good idea to tell other people. Please refrain from mentioning this method on boards.

You can change a primary spring on these sleds without removing clutch...its by no means easy but it has been done before.

A good working clutch should require a good shove to move it from rest to belt engagement. If it goes to belt engagement fairly easy spring could be bad. If there is space between the clutch bolt washer and cover plate is also a good sign clutch needs work.. normally you would have to put a feeler guage in there.

What do you mean the crank seals rarely go on 2 cycle engines.Have you never owned one? I replace crank seals on every sled I work on and it does not seem to matter if the sled was running on a normal basis or if the sled sat for many years,almost all of them need at least 1 seal because of a chunk missing or the spring is gone or they are just plain worn out.These kawasaki engines seem to need them more then the rest I am not sure why but that seems to be the way it is.The seal in these sleds are more than likley 30 years or more old and they are subject to a harsh enviroment.
Seals should be replaced first and then work your way through the rest of the issuses if there is some.I run into alot of peaple that say the seals dont need changing in thier sleds and more times than not they are looking for a piston and or cylinder in the near future.
Seals are cheap and they are not that hard to replace on most engines so why would you not do it?

liquifire_freak · Post by **liquifire_freak** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:31 pm

i have adjusted the cable and it makes no difference, even if the crank seals went out i should still be able to ride it! not that i would thats why im leaning toward something else the seals just dont go out and they usually show signs not just one day it wont run u kno?

big danno 1970 · Post by **big danno 1970** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:10 pm

I GIVE UP SOME, PEAPLE JUST DONT GET IT!!!

smitfire · Post by **smitfire** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:57 pm

what status are you at, you have a clean carb?