Recommended type drill bit

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:54 pm

I would like to install studs on my 77 liquifire. Any suggestions on the type of drill bit needed, to drill through the cleats? I tried a titanium coated one from the local hardware store, and managed only 2 holes before the bit became dull.

Thanks...Terre

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:58 pm

I think? you can get picks that will fit in the existing rivet holes. Drilling through the cleats will take a few bits to do.

moontreenrg · Post by **moontreenrg** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:51 pm

what kind of studs are you going to install? i have considered a scoop style stud myself. has anyone done this?

Post by **WinnipegStPaul9** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:57 pm

johnnycyclone wrote: Any suggestions on the type of drill bit needed

I used the "Scott Method". After trying to drill a couple with titanium, I took the track to Scott Henning. I found the job a lot easier by allowing Scott to drill the holes for me. May not work with everyone but it worked darn nice for me..............as my friend Kenny would say................that's my $0.00653467 worth

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:42 pm

A cobalt drill bit will get you 10 holes or so before it needs to see the "Drill Doctor".

Turn it slowly with a fair amount of pressure, and it'll walk right through the cleat.

Post by **ICCSF 108** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:30 pm

Carbide bits are very expensive & like Rich said turn very slow I would also maybe use some type of coolant.. I bought 2 Carbide bits for about $75.00 ea. years back ( late 70's ) & destroyed one in a very short time, I got it too hot & the carbide tip dropped off the end.. then we used cobalt bits, but like Brian says they are only good for about 10 holes..

Kenny

sparcat · Post by **sparcat** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:51 pm

Try a masonary drill bit! Carbide tip, seem to work the best, from my many years of drill ing cleats to put studs in them!

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:45 pm

S_kyle - That's a good idea, but I already have the studs, so I would like to use what I have.

moontreenrg - Woody's Gold Digger's - 5/16 x .875. And, yes from what I have read on here, they are a bit longer than recommended, but .750 are somewhat extinct. So we are going to go ahead and try the .875. I took a picture of what I am using, including a pic of one installed. It sticks out just under 1/2" from the cleat. I believe 3/8 is the maximum recommended from Woody's. So these are pretty close.

Don - If I had a someone like a Scott Henning, which I may have, if I look hard enough. I would certainly use him also.

Rich, Brian, and Kenny - Thanks for the tips, sounds like some great advice. I certainly would have thrown the bit in the drill, and gone after it on high speed. I'm sure you guys just saved me a few buck on drill bits.

sparcat - never thought of using a masonary bit. I will have to give that one a try.

Thanks for all of the responses....Terre

Attachments:

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 2:36 am

I just bought a couple of bags of .75 Gold Diggers from Central Snowmobile in the last month. But you are correct, Woody's has discontinued them.

Mean Green · Post by **Mean Green** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:24 pm

Huh? Hasn't anyone read the Fine tune Manual? A cold chisel is the weapon of choice on this one, along with a BFH. ......Drill bits???

http://www.vintagesnow.com/John_Deere_files/JD%20Fine%20Tune.pdf

Page 45 for info. You're welcome.

Tracy

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:14 pm

Yes Tracy, you chisel off the rivet heads, pop the rivet out with a punch, then drill the cleat out to accept the stud.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:12 pm

I never had much luck with chiseling off the heads, so I cheat and use the grinder.

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:14 am

It is easy to drill out the cleat rivet. It is not easy to drill a new hole in a cleat. Pretty hard steel.

If I was going to drill 96 holes in cleats it I would remove the track and lay it on a drill press table.

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 10:44 am

Just a quick follow up. I decided while at the auto parts store to ask about carbide drill bits, they didn't have any, but did have cobalt ones. Went ahead and purchased one to give it a try. Well it worked better than expected. I was able to drill all of the holes I needed, some where around 80 holes, without any problem. The bit did start to dull, near the end, but not enough to stop drilling. I kept the rpms down, used moderate pressure, letting the bit do the work, and didn't let the bit get to hot. Worked great!

Terre

cowboy mark · Post by **cowboy mark** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 2:14 am

i just recently replaced about 1/2 of the cleats on my track, and i used the grinder to get the old ones off. that seemed to work well for me