Polaris Suspension Question

[427cobra]

Hey Guys,

I am rebuilding the suspension on my 1995 Polaris XLT Touring sled. It has the Ryde AFX suspension on it. It does not have the xtra10 or 12 on it.

It has the longer track on it seeing that is the "touring" model. I see that there is lower mounting hole for the rear of the suspension. This will raise the rear end up a little, which I am planning on using.

What set up do you guys recommend to get the most travel out of the suspension? Looks to me there are lots of different mounting holes and adjustments that I can make. I am not too familiar with this suspension. So any hints to set it up would appreciated!

Thanks!

[75rat]

Hi Eric,

The max travel you can get from that suspension is about 7-8", from fully extended to bottomed out on the stops. The best you can do is lube everything well to make sure nothing binds and all the arms swing freely. The cross-shafts used on these sleds are known to bind in the swing arm tubes (sometimes because the tubes are bent). You should also consider upgrading to Fox gas shocks.

Get rear springs that match your weight and riding style. If it the suspension bottoms out too easy, the rear springs are too weak or worn out and you're only using the "bottom half" of the suspension travel. If too stiff, you're only using the "top half" of the suspension travel .

Moving the suspension to the lower hole on the tunnel basically raises the back of the sled and transfers more weight to the skis. This might help the sled ride level when 2-up riding, but does little else.

IMHO, I would recommend installing an Xtra-10 suspension rather than spend time and money on that suspension. Besides, you really need to remove the old suspension to go through it anyway. You just need to relocate the 4 mounting holes and it bolts right in. Xtra-10's can be found a swap meets very cheap (I found one last year for $20). An Edge suspension would be nice, but the're still pretty expensive. Don't bother with the Xtra-12.

BTW; I've owned several XLT's (still have a '94 and '99) and the '94 is the most fun to ride, but only after intalling an Xtra-10 suspension front and rear. I've done this mod on several old Indys and it makes a world of difference.

Good luck!
Jim

[427cobra]

Thanks for the information!

Well I already bought alll the parts to rebuild the one that is in there. I did upgrade to gas shocks. So I am sure that will help some. I also upgraded to blue hyfax and some blue idler wheels... Just waiting on them to arrive! I did have some bad bearings and worn idlers...so I am glad I went through it!

Do they make a xtra 10 for the longer track?

Thanks again!

[75rat]

"Do they make a xtra 10 for the longer track? "

Yes they do, I just sold one last winter.

Sounds like you are doing all the right stuff.

Also, I did not mention things you can do to keep the crossshafts from binding. The shafts usually bind in center of the tubes, so try to find some late '90's shafts with the middle machined down (my 99 XLP SP came with them). You could also machine down your current shafts in the middle 10-12". approx. 1/8" on the diameter. I've since replaced all mine with "Pro-Shafts" that have a Delrin bushing on each end. They are no longer made, but I might have an extra set laying around. Let me know if you're interested. (If so, I need dimensions of your current shafts.)

Have a nice weekend,
Jim

[427cobra]

Thanks for the offer.

All the shafts seemed to be well lubed and in good shape when I took it apart. Maybe if I put more miles on it I would take you up on the offer. But for now I will just put it back together with the original parts. Make things easier for myself...

Having the machined centers does sounds like a good idea though...

[guitardude081]

Eric, Keep in mind that the mounting of your suspension changes the ride height, not the travel. A suspensions travel is how far the torque arms will move up and down. If you change the mounting position, you'll probably want to play with the front spring and the IFS springs to obtain desired ski lift and ski pressure. Moving the rear of the sled upwards will change the handling characteristics of the front end, but the snowmobile will move through deep snow better becasue the tunnel is higher off the ground. The XC-101 and Xtra-10s were great suspensions at the time and still are in my opinion. For the older Polaris suspensions in the lower mounting hole I prefer setting the rear springs on the medium setting and cranking the front coil spring about 4 or 5 turns back from the tight setting. I adjust my front springs on my sleds so often that I don't really have a desired setting. To me, it depends on how hard I feel like working to steer the sled that day. You'll have to drive it and make changes to suit you. Most of these changes can be done trailside. Bring a plug wrench for the rear spring adjusters. You know, it'd be pretty awesome if you put a set of PSI Mod-Blaster pipes on that baby. We have a saying in the shop, "beware of 600s with mirrors".
~Jack

[427cobra]

Thanks for all that information!

I need to find a spanner wrench for the sled. It didnt come with one....

I almost have the suspension ready to install. Just waiting for the last parts order to come in!