Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Technical topics related to machines powered by Kasasaki motors
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cosmo440
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Location: Cochrane, Alberta

Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by cosmo440 »

Is it possible to pull the bottom half of the engine case off while leaving the cylinders and heads still bolted to the top half of the case? I am talking about a 1980 Liquifire 440. Just curious, because what if the case halves are not sealing properly(say it is just worn), but it is not leaking out the head gaskets or top end? I assume there would be some drivability issues and leaking if it were not sealed properly. Would there be an allignment problem because the top is stressed because of the torque of the cylinder bolts? The only time I can see this as being an issue, is when you just built the motor, got it running and the top end is fine but, say, you missed a small area on the case halves where the sealent did not seal properly or you missed a spot.
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427cobra
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by 427cobra »

Well the problem I see with not removing the cylinders when tearing apart your motor is getting the pistons back in if you remove the crank.

I would suggest tearing the motor completely apart. Replace with new gaskets and seals. When putting the cases back together put the sealant on both halves. This will help insure that you get the proper amount applied and a good seal.

If you follow the procedure in the Liquifire Tech manual it will take you through the proper sequence of rebuilding the motor. There is also some good information on this site for rebuilding Liquifire motors.
Eric A.

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A1 SLEDER JIM
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by A1 SLEDER JIM »

I have pulled several apart when th etop end is still good. The way yo udo it is to un do the top and side water pipes and just unbolt th e4 lond studded head bolts and leave the short ones fasened. Check my othe rposts. jim
cosmo440
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by cosmo440 »

I can see getting the pistons back in as being a problem, if you remove them. If the pistons have to come out, the engine fully comes apart, I would not cheat that. I was only concerned if you only pulled the bottom crank case off, leaving the crank, pistons, and cylinders in the top half. Why would you have to unbolt the long head bolts? The long ones attatch to the top case, they do not go through to the bottom case. By the way, my rebuild on the motor worked great all last year, and no leaks, yet. Just wondering about removing bottom case to reseal it if it were to leak.
JDFanPa
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by JDFanPa »

Im not positive on the liquid motor but I have done what you are questioning on several fan cooled motors to change crank seals and reseal the cases
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Danzig...
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by Danzig... »

cosmo440 wrote:I can see getting the pistons back in as being a problem, if you remove them. If the pistons have to come out, the engine fully comes apart, I would not cheat that. I was only concerned if you only pulled the bottom crank case off, leaving the crank, pistons, and cylinders in the top half. Why would you have to unbolt the long head bolts? The long ones attatch to the top case, they do not go through to the bottom case. By the way, my rebuild on the motor worked great all last year, and no leaks, yet. Just wondering about removing bottom case to reseal it if it were to leak.

This can be done.
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by ICCSF 108 »

If you use the correct crank case sealant, you shouldn't have a problem. but if this is on a liquifire motor then remember you will might have to remove the water pump, oil inj. pump, & the gears in the gear case. also I'm not sure how you would remove / replace the gear off the crank to replace the inner PTO crank seal, I'm sure it could be done but might be a booger??

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cosmo440
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Re: Pulling apart Fireburst motors

Post by cosmo440 »

The inner PTO seal would be almost impossible to change unless you remove the crank, but it should be the seal that lasts the longest, as it is in the motor, not exsposed to the elements and it is less prone to drying out as it is oiled on the inside and outside. Personally, if I got to this point I would pull the motor and rebuild the entire thing, it is not a hard motor to build and by doing it all, you should get everything right and not have missed something that may come back to haunt you. I am still learning about this engine, and the one thing I found is make sure that the heads are FLAT!!!!!! If they are not , they will leak.
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