Kiortz 340 liquidfire

kstory · Post by **kstory** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:40 am

im trying to get a 340 liquidfire running that sat for who knows how long and im about to go nuts working on the thing. it fires up right away and idles but i cant get it to rev up past 2,500. it will only run on one cylinder at a time(pull the left plug wire and it runs on the right cylinder and vice versa but not both cylinders). i have replaced both coils, the cdi box, as well as stripping the engine and replacing every gasket and seal short of the center crank seals. i also did a resistance test on the stator and the ohms were within spec. the fuel pump is working well also. im lost... if anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated

Post by **ICCSF 108** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:47 am

Have you cked compression? Have you rebuilt the carbs? & are YOU SURE there clean?? Did you replace all the gas lines with new?? including replacing the one in the tank?? & clean out the tank? Also replacing the screen/ck valve in the tank?? New impulse line?

Kenny

harleysportster · Post by **harleysportster** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:36 pm

Never pull the plug wires when the engine is running, you will short out the cdi box.
Check for spark with a in-line spark tester. As cheap as they are, buy one for each plug.

tmartin · Post by **tmartin** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:15 pm

Does this have a throttle safety switch? If so try disconnecting it. I had a lot of trouble with my brothers 73 arctic cat panther because of this. If its corroded or rusty it will not work right and give you a high rpm miss. Its worth a try if it has this feature.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:51 pm

I think cats are the only ones that tried the throttle safety nonsense.

kstory · Post by **kstory** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:41 pm

the engine has good compression on either side and i cleaned the carbs twice just to be sure. i aslo replaced the all the fuel lines except the line inside the tank. im pretty sure it doesnt have a throttle safety switch

JDXspec · Post by **JDXspec** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:47 pm

I knwo you siad you cked the resistance but it does sound like the high speed windings may be out. the high speed comes in about 2800 rpms. I helped a friend out with that problem. it would idle all day but he would lose spark above 2800. use 2 inline spark testers and ck for spark when you try to rev it up. the older LFs did not have throttle safety switches.

kstory · Post by **kstory** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:53 am

after getting my hands on a 440 liquid fire that ran i started swapping parts and it turned out to be the stator. even though it checked out fine somethings faulty with it. thanks for the help

upbeck · Post by **upbeck** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:38 am

Hope you guys can help with this:

I'm starting the process of replacing the stator on my 77 liquifier/340 kiortz. What's the trick to removing the cover that is inside the recoil cover? I'm assuming that the stator is on the other side of this cover.... this is the cover that is mount on and spins with the shaft.

I created a custum puller, similar to a bearing puller. I bought longer bolts than the original bolts and screwed them into the existing three 6mm threaded holes to use them as a place to grab and pull the cover off the crank using my home-make puller as it pushes on the shaft.

So far, I've used a more than reasonable amount of Pulling force to pull the cover off, but with no luck. At this point, I'm wondering if I've made a wrong assumption about how this thing is put together.

If my approach is correct, them maybe it's rust - this machine has been sitting exposed at least recently. It there a risk to bearing damage, if I use a torch on this?

Thanks for the help!

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 2:42 am

Cover? Do you mean the flywheel?

Risk of heat damage - HIGH!! And the flexible magnet inside the flywheel is susceptable to damage if you hit it with anything!

Can you show us a photo of your setup?

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:38 pm

You need to give the puller bolt a swat with a 2lb hammer once you have it tight.
It will pop right off.

DO NOT even think about puting heat on it or it will be toast.

When it pops off be sure to locate the key. It sometimes sticks to one of the magnets.

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:41 pm

I assume you have removed the large retaining nut, lockwasher and washer.....

upbeck · Post by **upbeck** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:42 pm

Hello Guys .... Brian, thanks for helping ..... again ...... you helped last season with a replacement manifold for my first JD (74 JD300).

I created a page with three pics on shutterfly to give you a better idea about this:

please go see http://www.becker906.shutterfly.com

It's identified with today's date (11/23/9) and "340 Liquifire"

It sounds like my technique is okay .... maybe I'll need to provide a little persuasion/2 lb hammer, but, I'd like to hear from you guys after you look at the pics, before I take that step.

The 1/2 inch bolt in the pic that is part of my homemade "puller"is a carriage bolt -hidden from - view is a spot where I can turn it with a half inch wrench. The black plate has a half inch nut welder to it. If the resolution was higher, the weld quality would be good for a laugh.

lwb140 · Post by **lwb140** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:20 am

looks to me like you are on the right track i have used a standard harmonic balancer puller for this available at autozone or car quest etc ive also had to use socket head [good] 6 mm bolts to pull with because i broke regular ones . but it looks like you will get it . take your time and be careful and you will be ok wade

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:16 am

I looked at the photos, have a couple of thoughts:

1) To replace the stator, this plan will not work. The flywheel with ring gear will not come through the flywheel housing cover. It's got to be removed.
2) If the flywheel comes hard ( and it sounds like it is ) I fear your carrige bolt is going to mess up the threads on the end of the crank. At the very least, you should have the nut turned on it flush with the end, so you can re-thread it when you take the nut back off.

I would really rather have you get yourself a proper puller. A harmonic balancer puller will do. Preferably one that the tip that contacts the crank end, does not turn with the threaded rod.