Kiortz 340 liquidfire

[JDT]

Brian is correct.
The carriage bolt is probably not the bolt to use. And I do not think you can get enough torque with a 1/2" wrench to make it pop.

And the case cover needs to be removed first.
A proper puller is a good investment and will get lots of use as your vintage sled disease progresses.

[upbeck]

Thanks for the input -

Brian - I don't understand the first part about "this plan not working". So it must be that I am misunderstanding terminology. What do you call the "cover" in my photo? Is the statro behind this cover? Assuming that it needs to be removed, is the solution getting to the stator more involved than getting the right tool for the job (removing the cover)?

FYI - I did spray some liquid wrench into that general area a couple of nights ago.

Thanks,

Jim

[upbeck]

I think that I can answer my own question. My "cover" is the flywheel which you are saying will not fit through the opening shown in my picture.

[400brian]

Correct. The aluminum housing needs to come off, only 4 bolts I think. The flywheel will not come through that hole. I consulted the Service Manual, not just pulling this out my kiester.
On the stator view: 7 is the flywheel, 6 is the stator. Near 27 is the rubber grommet that is in the case or cover that the stator and trigger wires pass through. The Trigger is the donut shaped thing behind the stator. Don't disturb it if you do not have to.

[upbeck]

Thanks All - I'll give it a try over this weekend and let you know how it goes.

[upbeck]

Here's an update: You're right about the right tool. And now, with the new/gently used stator and trigger/donut in place, the symptom remains - no spark on either plug.

That was Sunday. Today, I am on the road, away from my project until the weekend with snow in the forcast .... so I'm trying to shorten my learning curve:

What I know is that the old stator was bad and the "new" stator checks out electrically (matches the resistance readings for the windings). So, I think that leaves only a few possibilities - bad CDI or a bad connection or mis-wire.

I also have a new/gently used CDI. I also know that usually only one electrical thing fails - not two. So, before I cut and splice, I want to be sure about the wiring since the wiring diagram for the "77 Wiring" Liquifire shows a CDI with fewer (8) wires than both the CDI's that I have (9) - the ninth being brown.

So about the possibility of a poor or mis-conneciton - what wires should I focus on? Are there some wires that I can leave unconnected? Does the CDI box need to be grounded?

I realize that the the answer may be to to just clean everything and leave the brown wire unconnected. But appreciate your advice.

[JDT]

The CDI has to be grounded to the engine. This is critical!!!!

[JDT]

The 8 wire colors are all the same.
The brown wire must be a ground.

[upbeck]

I'm pretty confident that I can figure out where the brown wire pulled loose from but I'd just like to speed up the troubleshooting process by eliminating some of the guessing. I'll make sure to ground the box .... when I get home.

[harleysportster]

If you are using an aftermarket CDI box, I am not sure if the wire colors are the same for both. Usually the ground wire for the CDI box would have a crimped terminal that gets secured to the mounting screw of the CDI box or another close anchoring postion. The ground wire is a necessary for proper spark.

[upbeck]

This is the stock CDI with the two round (2 and 3 conductor) connectors. Yes, there is a fairly short wire with a terminal on the end that I am sure is the ground wire that is secured to the cdi with the mounting screw. My son tells me that the wire the has been "pulled loose" is actually black. If that's true, this wire would normally be connected to the key/kill switch. I can see that it would be switched to ground to turn off the motor.

That would mean that the wiring diagram's missing wire is the short black wire with the terminal.

I'll try cleaning all connections with a brass brush, mount the CDI with the wire to the motor and check for spark again.

[upbeck]

Update: Cleaned connections, mounted CDI - still no spark. Because of other obligations and travel that keeps me away from home these days, I'll try the replacement CDI next weekend.

[upbeck]

Up date: After replacing the CDI, I got a good spark and within a few minutes (enough time to "rig" a feed line from a container of fresh gas) we had a smooth running motor.

I was really surprised that I had two seperate problems - a bad stator and a bad CDI. Not sure how that would happen during normal operation.

My weekends are short, so I still need to remove and clean the gas tank and reassemble the clutch and (maybe) adjust the timing since I replace the trigger unit.

Thanks for all the help Brian, JDT and Harley - I really appreciate it.

FYI - Out of curiousity, I disconnected the two green (stator) wires from the wire harness and found that the motor still runs - just no lights. Also - the "extra" black wire not accounted for in the wiring diagram was the short wire with the terminal that is grounded to the CDI box the motor. The other black wire goes to the ignition switch.

Jim

[400brian]

There are 12 poles on a Prestolite stator. Three are the ignition windings, the other 9 are the lighting coil.
The two systems operate separately of each other.