Liquifire Carb Flange

[nick80lf]

Does any one know if there is a source for the longer carb flanges used on the 80-84 LF's (I assume Image still has them)? I could have sworn I saw them on a web site a few months back. I realize that the Invader flanges will work. Just want the original factory look.

Also for those of you that have used the Invader flanges does this effect performance / jetting? Bet the air box goes in easier though.

Nick

[AirborneX4Special]

I have a set of Invader flanges on my 82 LF and have not noticed any difference. The original set was tired when I bought the sled, so I decided to try them because of the usual airbox clearance deal. It seemed like that machine was tighter than most, so I opted for the short flanges. Bob at Image had both kinds to sell. I'm all about maintaining the stock appearance but there is a limit to pain and suffering. Other LF's
I have wrenched upon have not been as " close quartered " as this 82.

[burt87]

I tried using the short flanges from kimpex. The air box was bottoming out on the fuel pump so I just went with the originals and had to use some permatex hightemp sealant to keep from having a leak.

[AirborneX4Special]

Permatex is usually a good idea. I don't reassemble one with out it; too many bad experiences.

[nick80lf]

Was that the original 5-plate fuel pump that was hitting the air box or something like a Mikuni DF52-73?

The more I think about it, both probably hit. The height of the pump probably is not the issue.

I should really post a picture of the carb flange that was on my latest acquisition. The entire bottom of the carb flange was torn away from the internal metal plate. Somewhere along the line someone tried to repair it with silicone. Gee, I wonder why it melted a piston?

It's really sad; this sled has just over 1,000 miles and is in excellent shape, except for a roasted motor (I bought it this way). Now how to convince the wife engine parts are a good investment?

Nick

[burt87]

It is the original fuel pump. As I was reassembling I wanted to use the short mounting flanges for ease of getting the air box in and out. The air box wouldn't quite fit, it was kinda teetering on the fuel pump , I didn't want to modify it so I used the original flanges. I bought my 80 Liquifire 12 yrs. ago with 800 kl. It died at 1140 kl that year. I can't tell you how much $ i've put into that thing just throwing parts into it until I found this site and was able to get a tech manual and help from the members. I'm so deep into that thing it's not even funny I stopped telling my wife how much parts were, at that point it didn't matter anymore, I was on a mission and wasn't stopping till it was running. I've only been able to put 10 kl on it since I got it all back together. Good luck with your project.


Rob

[nick80lf]

Thanks, I'll need the luck. My first 80lf was a basked case when I bought it in 96. My profile picture is of that sled. I went through it completely back then but stopped short of new decals. I originally was planning on totally disassembling the first one and repainting it with new decals this summer, mechanically it's sound. The second sled was going to be a parts sled for the first one. But after seeing it up close I just can't use it for parts. It's too nice. My wife was totally against the second sled knowing how much money I put into the first one, but I assured her that it was only for parts

She knew better though. Once again she's right.

Nick

[lpjoe]

Was that the original 5-plate fuel pump that was hitting the air box or something like a Mikuni DF52-73?

The more I think about it, both probably hit. The height of the pump probably is not the issue.

I should really post a picture of the carb flange that was on my latest acquisition. The entire bottom of the carb flange was torn away from the internal metal plate. Somewhere along the line someone tried to repair it with silicone. Gee, I wonder why it melted a piston?

It's really sad; this sled has just over 1,000 miles and is in excellent shape, except for a roasted motor (I bought it this way). Now how to convince the wife engine parts are a good investment?

Nick

I recently aquired my first J.D. sled, An 80 liquifre nd had the same issue with the carb flanges, tried the silicone trick, but before running it much more than firing it up in the shop, I had second thoughts. Went to a local sled salvage/repair shop, literally within a mile of my house and he was able to scrounge up a pair of really nice flanges .

After putting things back together, aside from remounting the gas tank and seat ( yup that was my solution to the airbox clearance issue, i think this is how the flanges got hosed in the first place. squirted a bit of premix into the carbs forthe first start and away it went!

I need to get things tweaked into proper performance yet ansd replace the worn ot drive belt but another liquifire has been rescued from oblivion.
Now for that box riveted to the chassis with the melted plug (rev limiter?)

[nick80lf]

This is a little off topic but the melted rev limiter plug is interesting. The first sled that I have, had a melted plug when I bought it. Since this happened before I bought the sled I always assumed it happened when the hanwarmer welded it's self inside the handle bar.

The electrical connectors used on the JD sleds are actually a General Motors connector known as Packard (Delphi) 56. If you talk nicely to your local GM Parts guy he might sell you some. If he will not, you could try this web site:

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Defau ... Categories

I have not purchased from them. When I replaced mine I got the connector and terminals from auto parts suppliers locally.

I did some research on Delphi Electrical's web site and I believe that the terminal supply web site part #'s are the actual GM part #. Soo, the GM # for the brown 3 pin plug is 8905116 and the terminals that go in it are 2962508 (unplated) or 2965141 (plated).

Last, you can't use your every day terminal crimper for the terminals. I got mine from Carquest. They’re a little pricey ($25).

Nick