chain case lube???

[mikes47jeep]

hi its me again

im not new to mechanical stuff, just new to sleds

i just checked the chain case lube in my 300 and its a little grey so i figure its time for a change

the manual says SAE 30

wouldent someting synthetic that stays more liquidy at cold temps be a good idea?

or dont argue and put straight 30 in

also i was checking out all my bogie wheels and i was wondering if i should pull them off and try to get a little oil in the ball bearings, i love to lube

Mike

[Hoppy]

im the type of guy that does what the manual says. If it says SAE 30.......then thats what is going in my sleds.
i have only ever had trouble with one machine i have owned....and in my defense it wasnt my fault. It was an ice auger and the cap on the tank said "25:1"..................well low and behold it really was to be 50:1. found this out from a guy who had the same auger and same issues. he called the manufacturer and was told "our mistake". no wonder my auger ran like crap right out of the box. To much oil! anyway....my point is your always(99% of the time) going to be alright if you go by the owners manual. maybe they liked the thicker SAE 30 for the "stick" factor? i dont know i wouldnt risk blowing anything up until someone you know and trust tells you otherwise.

[427cobra]

They make chain case oils. Polaris and Arctic Cat both sell them...

[400brian]

Any oil will lubricate a roller chain, you can run ATF if you want to, but it may leak out.
30 wt was probably a compromise.

[JDT]

What Brian said.

Seams that there are as many instructions as to chain case lube as there were sled manufactors.
I have read several vintage Owners/Operators manuals for many assorted brands of sleds gone by and they reccomend anything from 80/90w to AFT.

This is one of those "motor oil is motor oil" things.
It is not that big of deal what is in there as long as it is clean and at a level that allows the lower sprocket to carry it onto the chain.

But to throw a butt wrench into this statement, back in the day some short distance racers and draggers would not run any lube in the case when the temps went below zero as they felt that the thickness of the lube robbed them of 1-2 HP. They would manually lube the chain before a race and run the case dry.
But this was before synthectics....

Straight 50W is my choice.

[harleysportster]

If you want to be by-the -book, JD subbed the 90W gear oil over to Hy-Gard Hydraulic oil. This is available in quart bottles at the dealer. I have been running this for a few years now since I have it in bulk for the tractors.

[nick80lf]

According to the site's FAQ section there was a service bulletin about not using 90W gear oil. According to the post 50w was the viscosity recommended in this bulletin. I assume this is for the fire series sleds.

Nick

[harleysportster]

Nick,
You are correct stating the info in the FAQ section. There used to be a more up-to -date post from another member from here that stated all the updates. He has since left and had asked for all his info to be removed. My post of the Hy-Gard came from his original post, which was a few years ago.
Basically, any chaincase lube will work that is meant for endless chains. The problem is if you have weak chaincase seals, the new thinner oil will leak out. Deere had chain failures in the very cold temps with the 90W oil.

[mikes47jeep]

SAE 30 is looking better and better

[427cobra]

Ive used SAE 30 with a splash of Lucas Oil Stabilizer...

I know we have all seen the gears displayed at your local auto store with Lucas additive. It certainly wont hurt anything.

Now I use either polaris or arctic cat chaincase oil...which seems to already have some sort of stabilizer in it. It defenaly coats the gears better than straight oil...IMHO

[mikes47jeep]

ive argued with alot of people in the vintage jeep world about motor oil

and i believe it comes down to the same thing here

"as long as its clean, and slippery"