Liquifier Fuel Pump

[PSguy]

Just got a new to me John Deere 1980 Liquifier 440 with 2950 kilometers on it. I have replaced the fuel pump on it with a rectangular Mikuni dual fuel pump. It starts and appears to run okay but as soon as I apply throttle it bogs down and will not even move. Carbs and all jets have been thoroughly cleaned a couple times and all new fuel lines including in tank and filter. I have ordered a new exterior coil as this could be an issue also allthough it appears to have good spark. I am wondering if I bought the wrong fuel pump which pumps 31 litres per hour. Should this machine use a high flow pump which pushes 65 litres per hour? The rectangular Mikuni pump I purchased appears to be much smaller and less sustantial than the origional Mikuni pump. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Al

[WinnipegStPaul9]

If the engine seals have not been replaced in several years, that's where you start. It all tends to revolve around the seals. DA

[Invader440]

Get a kit and rebuild the original fuel pump. Not positive but I don't think the rectangle pump flows enough plus you don't have the anti siphon like in the original pump to keep the engine from flooding out. Kit's are available from Al's Snowmobile under part number AL33322 just keep in mind that there is one hole missing on one of the gaskets that you have to punch in the gasket or it won't pump gas.

[kreechur]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here (still learning carbs), but It shouldn't be fuel pump because fuel supply is in carb bowls, Once carb bowls are full, fuel will be supplied by that. If your fuel pump wasn't pumping enough, it would go for a short period before bogging because it would have to empty the bowls first. The fuel pumps should only get fuel from your tank to the carb bowls, once in the carb, atmospheric pressure difference will "pump" fuel into the engine, the external fuel pump won't pump the fuel into the engine only into the carb bowls.

I agree with WinnipegStPaul9 and to verify seals, while it's idling, take some carb cleaner and spray around the carb boots, crank seals, crank case halves, and also around the jug base. If it idles up or down, you have a leak. Keep in mind small leaks may not be detected this way... If idle doesn't change while spraying carb cleaner; verify all carb settings are correct as far as the needle clip, and that correct jets are installed.

Hope this helps.

[PSguy]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Will go to work on it again tonight. Just curious if some one has a ball park cost or amount of time a mechanic might take to do seals. I have read up on this site regarding others who have changed them and am a little nervous about that job however I have never had to send a motor out before and don,t really want to start now. The machine has been stored for 15 years so it sounds like seals have to be done.

[Invader440]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Will go to work on it again tonight. Just curious if some one has a ball park cost or amount of time a mechanic might take to do seals. I have read up on this site regarding others who have changed them and am a little nervous about that job however I have never had to send a motor out before and don,t really want to start now. The machine has been stored for 15 years so it sounds like seals have to be done.

Here ya go, from the Kawasakitrax site:
http://kawasakitrax.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96