painting advise

[mainejd]

Well, I'm starting my first JD project and need some advise. It's a '75 300 that has been in the family for a long time and now needs some new life. My issue is with paint selection and application.
I've been reading a lot of previous posts on the subject. Some good advise!!! But I've got a few more questions. I'll need to get the "Mean Green" color and was wondering if one was better/ closer than the others. Also, I would like to know if a flex agent, curing agent, hardener, etc, should be added to the paint due to the flexibility of the "plastic" parts?? Thanks

[JD600]

First off, Welcome!

I'm curious what parts you are painting on a 300 that you are worried about flexing? the hood is fiberglass and pretty tough at that. As far as the add-ins for your paint, your paint supplier should be able to fix you up as most of them know what is required to use. This will vary some from one brand to another. I am planning on using Martin Senour paint from NAPA for my 75 800. I'll post a few pics to share.

Before tear down

Engine

Engine removed

Tunnel and pan stripped


We have a long way to go, and it has come further since these were taken. I'll have to get more pice off of the camera. Good luck on your project. Mid Engine sleds are fun

DE

[johnnycyclone]

Welcome to the site mainejd,

As far as a flex agent, my understanding is that it only works for a short period of time. It allows the parts to flex during installation. It does not provide any permanent solution to parts flexing. When painting plastics it's important to get good adhesion. SEM makes a good product that you spray on prior to painting. It is supposed to soften the plastic, which allows the paint to adhere to the plastic better. You can probably get it from your local paint supplier.

You have 3 basic choices in paint.

1. Acrylic enamel, no hardener - this just the base color, and thinner. What you spray with this is what you get.

2. Acrylic enamel, with hardener - this is the base color, thinner and hardener. With the hardener added this allows you to have the option to wet sand the paint and to polish it to a high gloss.

3. Base coat/clear coat - this is a two part paint/finish system, first is a base coat which is the base paint along with a reducer. The clear is sprayed on after the base color is applied, it consists of the clear plus a hardener. This too can be wet sanded smooth and polished to a high gloss.

Of course that is just a basic description of what is available. A lot depends on what you want, what your experience level is and what the sled is going to be used for, and of course how much you really want to spend. Anyone can spray paint on, but what I have found is the prep work is the most important. As the old saying goes "crap in, crap out". So your paint job will only be as good as your prep work. As always ask a lot of questions. Don't be afraid to ask your paint supplier also, they can be a great source of information.

As far as the correct color is concerned, it works best if you can have your paint supplier scan a part to get an exact match. Check around to see if one of the suppliers in your area has a scanner.

Terre

[mainejd]

Thanks for the advise!! I'm in the process of tearing everything down right now....just like to stay a few steps ahead. I'm looking for some parts, too, if you guys can help??

Thanks again.

[johnnycyclone]

Just go ahead and post in the classifieds section on what specifically you are looking for. Most likely someone on this board will be able to help. Just keep in mind, the traffic on the site is usually down in the summer so you may not receive an immediate response.

Terre

[mainejd]

Thanks Terre!! I was sort of aware of my painting application choices. I'd like to know which will give me the closest finish to factory. for instance, sometimes clearcoating a basecoat will look too "wet" compared to original, etc.....

[johnnycyclone]

Sorry maine, I didn't know what your background was, so I started with the basics. Either way it may be good reference material for anyone reading this thread. As far as matching the factory look, my guess would be just enamel with out the hardener, but I really have no idea, someone else on here would probably know. Personally I would never use the enamel without the hardener in it, you can get the same look with or without the hardener. But by adding the hardener it makes the paint more durable, plus you can sand and buff out any imperfections if you want. You can actually get a really smooth and glossy finish if you wet sand and buff it out, if that is what you want. Sounds more like you want it to look original though. The Spitfire in my avatar was done in the enamel with hardener, but I did not wet sand or buff it out, and it looks really nice, and it retained the original look. My latest project has received a base/clear coat finish, which I have wet sanded smooth and buffed to a high gloss finish. It's a mild custom, so I wasn't worried as to whether it looked factory or not. So I guess it is just a matter of personal preference on the way you want to go.

Terre

[lwb140]

i did a jdx this last fall and put flattener in the paint but it was important to me to have durability of the base/clear paint, i think the mean green paint was fairly shiny by todays standards when new ,id use base clear my thought wade

[400brian]

Mean green is problematic. It's a metalflake, you can't sand it after painting, it turns all funky.

In my experience, paint formulated for hardener doesn't cure properly without it, and it turns dull in a year.

The original paint was put on without primer, and without a clear coat. Adding those things gives you a nice automotive type finish, better than original.

Again, Mean Green has been an issue. Don Amber ( WinnepegStPaul )has a close match, but it is expensive.

[mainejd]

How about the whole "enamel vs. urethane" debate???

[johnnycyclone]

Brian,
Good catch on the metal flake. I had forgotten that mean green has the metal flake added which means it can't be sanded.

[johnnycyclone]

Enamel vs. Urethane

Urethane will retain it's gloss better, and has excellent durability, better than the enamel. The other difference is the price. Expect to pay up to twice the cost of enamel, if you choose to go with Urethane. Prices will vary depending on what supplier you go with.

[mainejd]

Which supplier do you recommend??

[400brian]

Send an email to: CA-2@centurytel.net

I'll send you Don's paint code.

[mainejd]

Thanx Brian,
Don has already been gracious enough to send the code to me....but thanks. I guess what I was asking is, can I get the paint with the SW code from another paint guy? The nearest SW is 76mi from my location. Thanks for any info