painting advise

[400brian]

Talk to your NAPA paint guy. Some of their stores handle SW, and they may be able to get it for you.

[johnnycyclone]

I don't know if it really matters which supplier you use as long as it is an automotive grade paint. I have used Dupont, Martin Senour, Western (Auto Value), ACME Finish 1 and lately I have been using PPG. I haven't really noticed any difference in the paint, then again I am not a professional painter, just a hobbyist.

You should check around with you local automotive paint supplier to see if any of them have a scanner. I was able to have both my Sportfire and my Spitfire hoods scanned for a perfect match on the color. I just carried the hood right into the store and they scanned it right there. That may be the easiest route, instead of driving the 76 miles.

Terre

[lwb140]

great point, i hauled a dator hood into my local auto body supply store and they scanned it for me everyone feel free to jump in and pounce on me hear but i think it has been accepted that mean green is gm elkhart green which was used on vettes and stuff of that time frame . we used prospray brand on my 340/s but as terre stated i think all quality brands can mix that color for you the prospray number is el72126bc i think the gm number is wa4284 but "elkhart green" will get you on the right track at most paint supply stores wade

[400brian]

GM Elkhart Green is close. Don's code is a custom mix.
Scanning Mean Green has also been problematic, ask Troy. I don't know if its the metal flake or what. Also, typically the computer match is the closest color they have in their system, not the scanned color per se.

Take your pick, and do what works for you.

[mainejd]

I'm gonna try the code from Don, first. It sounds like he's got it right on. If that doesn't work, I'll try to have it scanned locally. I scraped a decal from the tunnel and the paint came off with it due to the fact that there was no primer. So the back of the decal is fresh paint that was face down on the aluminum. That should be as close as I can get.
If that doesn't work, i'll either use the Elkhart or take a trip!!!

[johnnycyclone]

GM Elkhart Green is close. Don's code is a custom mix.
Scanning Mean Green has also been problematic, ask Troy. I don't know if its the metal flake or what. Also, typically the computer match is the closest color they have in their system, not the scanned color per se.

Take your pick, and do what works for you.

I agree with Brian, you have a lot of good ideas now, but it boils down to what works best for you. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Just as a footnote, when I had my hood scanned on the 82 Sportfire, I specifically asked what color did the scan match up to, which I was hoping to pass others. I was told it didn't match anything in their database, but that didn't matter any ways, because they only mix the paint to the information in the scan. He said this would give them the closest match possible. I'm not saying this is the norm, but was just my experience. I'm sure all stores are not the same.

[JD_Sledder68]

I use R-M (BASF) and Sherwin-Williams base/clear finishes almost exclusively now-a-days. Dupont and PPG are just too damned expensive.

For metalflake, metallic, tri-coat, and pearl type finishes, you must use basecoat/clearcloat finish if you intend to wetsand and buff the finish smooth.

Another good refinish system is Imron if you can still find anyone that carries it. It is a urethane single-stage finish and is very durable (and very harsh on the lungs!).

[JD_Sledder68]

You might be better off purchasing a green that is pretty close, and buying the tinting agents, and metalflake additives to adjust accordingly.

House of Kolor, Dupli-color and others make color systems where you purchase a base color and some tints and build your own color. Just make sure to write down the amounts you mixed and in what order, in case you have to duplicate it.

[WinnipegStPaul9]

According to my painter, the code I sent you should be able to be made at a NAPA store....

DA