83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
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#1: JD snowmobile and related items only.
#2: Please do not post negative opinion comments about an item or PRICE. The only replies should be legitimate questions from interested parties.
- I500
- Posts: 1264
- Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:00 am
- Real Name: Chuck Moser
- Location: Wyoming Minnesota
83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
LOOKING FOR A SET OF NOS 83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS NEEDED PART # M66254 OR IS THERE SOMETHING AFTERMARKET THAT WOULD WORK. ?
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- Posts: 1121
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Allanburg, Ontario
Re: 83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
I have a NOS set of M66245 for the 1st generation Liquifire but don't know if they fit the 2nd generation sleds.
1978 340 CC Liquifire
I once bought my kids a set of batteries for Christmas with a note on it saying, toys not included
I once bought my kids a set of batteries for Christmas with a note on it saying, toys not included
Re: 83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
The bushing where the spindle goes through the bulkhead on both sleds is M66245. M66254 is the bushing that goes through the spindle where the leaf spring bolts on. Just thought i'd help clarify.
DE
DE
Dustin Elder
Salem, OH
Midmounts.... Lots and lots of midmounts...
"Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
Salem, OH
Midmounts.... Lots and lots of midmounts...
"Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
- I500
- Posts: 1264
- Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:00 am
- Real Name: Chuck Moser
- Location: Wyoming Minnesota
Re: 83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
THANKS DUSTIN FOR WATCHING ON THIS ONE AND YOU ARE VERY CORRECT. I DO NEED THE M66254.
THIS IS THE PROBLEM I,M HAVING TO DEAL WITH: SKI SLOP, EVERY SLED I CHECK OUT THERE IS SO MUCH PLAY AT THE FRONT SKI,S THAT THIS CREATES DARTING PROBLEMS AND POOR HANDELING. I,M HAVING TO TAKE THEM TO A MACHINE SHOP FOR REEMING AND ADDING LARGER BOLTS TO TIGHTEN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. ARE THEY ALL LIKE THIS? I NEED SKI,S TO BE AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE WITH LITTLE TO NO PLAY AND JUST THOUGHT THAT NOS BUSHING COULD BE THE WAY TO GO....... ANYBODY ELSE DEAL WITH THIS BEFORE?????? THOUGHTS?????
THIS IS THE PROBLEM I,M HAVING TO DEAL WITH: SKI SLOP, EVERY SLED I CHECK OUT THERE IS SO MUCH PLAY AT THE FRONT SKI,S THAT THIS CREATES DARTING PROBLEMS AND POOR HANDELING. I,M HAVING TO TAKE THEM TO A MACHINE SHOP FOR REEMING AND ADDING LARGER BOLTS TO TIGHTEN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. ARE THEY ALL LIKE THIS? I NEED SKI,S TO BE AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE WITH LITTLE TO NO PLAY AND JUST THOUGHT THAT NOS BUSHING COULD BE THE WAY TO GO....... ANYBODY ELSE DEAL WITH THIS BEFORE?????? THOUGHTS?????
Re: 83 LIQUIFIRE SPINDLE BUSHINGS WANTED
Chuck (et) just about every sled I have had the pleasure of working on has unacceptable slop in the steering.
I feel that one of the reasons many people dislike riding vintage sleds has to due with excessive play in the frontend.
They were not this way when new but after 1000 miles things started to wear.
At 2000 miles many machines were down right dangerous.
After 3000 miles skis started to fall off.
But if proper mantenace was done this is all avoidable.
Ski condition and wear rods are obvious.
But things that get over looked are just as important.
I have seen sleds with 6" of play on the ski tips. I can only imagine how sore your arms would be after a 25 miles vintage ride with a sleds like that.
So here is a list of parts to check and most likely replace on any old sled that you want to ride and enjoy.
Saddles, saddle bushings, upper and lower spindle bushings, the spindles themselves if the bushings were completly missing, tie rod ends, steering post bushings, crosslink arms(if applicable), and the leaf spring slider pads.
Basicly any part that has play or slop in it will magnify to a lot of unwanted movement by the time it get out to the skis.
Also look at the pins or bolts that attact the leafs to the ski brackets.
Some brands did not even use bushings back in the early 70's.
When the saddle bolts wore elongated holes in the spindles or saddles the only choice is replacement or over drilling a 3/8" hole to except a 7/16" bolt or a 10mm bolt to a 12mm if you got a metric machine.
But two hours of work and $25.00 worth of parts from a farm store, hardware store or MCM will be time well spent.
I have sold sleds with 3000 miles on them to vintage guys that could not beleive that there was zero slop in the steering.
I feel that one of the reasons many people dislike riding vintage sleds has to due with excessive play in the frontend.
They were not this way when new but after 1000 miles things started to wear.
At 2000 miles many machines were down right dangerous.
After 3000 miles skis started to fall off.
But if proper mantenace was done this is all avoidable.
Ski condition and wear rods are obvious.
But things that get over looked are just as important.
I have seen sleds with 6" of play on the ski tips. I can only imagine how sore your arms would be after a 25 miles vintage ride with a sleds like that.
So here is a list of parts to check and most likely replace on any old sled that you want to ride and enjoy.
Saddles, saddle bushings, upper and lower spindle bushings, the spindles themselves if the bushings were completly missing, tie rod ends, steering post bushings, crosslink arms(if applicable), and the leaf spring slider pads.
Basicly any part that has play or slop in it will magnify to a lot of unwanted movement by the time it get out to the skis.
Also look at the pins or bolts that attact the leafs to the ski brackets.
Some brands did not even use bushings back in the early 70's.
When the saddle bolts wore elongated holes in the spindles or saddles the only choice is replacement or over drilling a 3/8" hole to except a 7/16" bolt or a 10mm bolt to a 12mm if you got a metric machine.
But two hours of work and $25.00 worth of parts from a farm store, hardware store or MCM will be time well spent.
I have sold sleds with 3000 miles on them to vintage guys that could not beleive that there was zero slop in the steering.
Todd Schrupp
Milbank SD
Milbank SD