About to give up....

[imoddirector]

I'm at my witts end on this Liquifire project of mine. Let me start this off as I'm no dummy (or at least didnt think so) when it comes to mechanical things. I started my mechanical career setting up these sled back in the early 80's and have made hundreds of repairs to them before leaving Deere dealership to pursue the Auto repair field of which I'm currently a master tech. I have 6 trailfires that we ride every year and run like new. Now back to this pain in my butt.... I was able to find a low mileage liquifire that had been sitting. I picked it up and went through every system including the engine. I followed the tech manuals. I followed the advice from members on this site. My problem is that it just wont run. It will sputter and at times it will allow to be reved to 4000 rpm until it slows and dies on its own. Choking doesnt prevent this. After it does run for 60 seconds or more and dies, its near impossible to get restarted. Carbs have been gone through several times, even swapped out with a doner sled. No difference. I swapped out the CDI box, no difference. I have moved timing around, no difference. I pressure tested the engine.... fine. Compression is 130Lh and 135rh. I unplugged rev limiter, no difference. What am I overlooking? Are these CDI designs prone to problems like this? Should I be looking to upgrade to newer style ignition? I have read damn near every post on anything remotely related to my symptoms. Please.... can someone steer me in the proper direction????? Thanks

[JDT]

Did you renew the crankseals?

There also seams to be a problem with the choke cable where it changes the adjustment on the plungers when you close the upperdash.
Make the final freeplay adjustemnt on the cables with the dash down.

And of course my favorite problem.... exhaust system plugged up with mice nests or acorns.

[Matt]

Check the stator specs?

[lwb140]

ive got 60 jd sleds , many for parts but several trailfires and cyclones early liquifires that are riders etc , but ive never been able to get a kawi powered l/f to run either ,have several but they are just for looks !!! go chris !!!!! wade

[nick80lf]

but ive never been able to get a kawi powered l/f to run either ,have several but they are just for looks !!! go chris !!!!! wade

Here's proof that they do run

The Idle was set way high in this video. It has since been corrected.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick80lf/6401307787/


I'll admit that I struggled with my first one (not the sled above) on and off for several years, and it may not be done with me. They can sometimes be fickle and enjoy taunting you; but quite rewarding when you finally win the battle.

Here's a quick list of things I believe I've had issues with in the past:

Leaky inlet needles
Hard choke plungers that don't seal correctly
Rebuilt fuel pumps that don't pump enough fuel
Flaky CDI box
Leaky head gasket

[imoddirector]

About the only thing so far that I havent checked was the exhaust being plugged. I'll swap out the muffler and retry. I did check stator specs and are within range. This thing isnt gonna whip me!!!!! Thanks for the suggestions....

[ICCSF 108]

If you didn't install New Choke plungers I would recommend doing that, Like Todd mentioned they will change adjustments when you open & close the dash.
If changing the muffler doesn't help ( make sure the mice haven't filled the one your going to swap with )..
Here is some more things to look at...
I guess you never mentioned IF you installed new seals ( 3 ) or not..
Also what year Liquifire is this??
Have you or anyone else done any Mods to it, Bumped the timing, installed Kawi Invader heads, changed the carbs form OEM, Etc.
If you had the PTO Gear cover off did you Check clearances & shim according to the service manual..
Did you clean & flush the fuel tank & install new fuel Lines & filters, fresh gas?? ( I like to have one filter before the fuel Pump & one between the pump & ea carb, 3 total )
Does the carbs have std Jetting, Mains & pilots & Power jets if OEM carbs, Did you install new Pilot Jets ( usually a must ) Did you thoroughly inspect the rubber Carb to engine Flanges for cracks or ck to see that someone hadn't tighten them too tight so they warped??
What plugs are you using, brand & number. does this engine have the Rubber or Plastic Spark Plug boots, IF Plastic, I would replace with rubber as I have seen the plastic ones go bad & give a weak spark...
Hope this helps

Kenny

[Danzig]

Needle and seats

Take the carb off, put a clean fuel line on the carb barb, flip the carb upside down and blow in the new hose with your mouth like a straw, if you can pass air in change the needle and seat, if not you have a good seal. Do this many times, flip the carb over and upside down..repeat.!!!!



Choke plungers

are also the next route I would go to, put vaseline on the bottom of the plunger and work choke on and off, remove plunger and check for an imprint in the rubber bottom of the plunger for marks that it is contacting the bottom, if not stretch the springs a little or replace plungers and springs and reset them by eye, not by the manual !! Those measurements to me are crap !! You gotta look down the bell mouth cavity leading into the plunger orifice to see this !!

[ljm]

I would be tempted to try a CDI.

[a572mike]

I was battling with my 83 after having gone through the motor to put in new seals and rings. Sure enough, I tested the inlet needles as Danzig recommended above, and they were leaking. Put new ones in, and it runs perfectly.

[imoddirector]

I've got a pair of new needles coming. Thank you all for your suggestions. I'll let you know how it comes out.

[Mr. Deere]

Sounds like the same issues im having.

[Danzig]

I have found through experience that a golf tee works well for gently burnishing seats to make the needle seal better. Just an FYI