77 300, idles fine, dies when i touch throttle

[johndeerejamie]

ok thanks everyone, im going to change those seals this weekend, i have the gear puller for the flywheel just trying to track down the clutch puller for the otherside. i think i should have everything else.

it is doin funny things because i fired it up the other day and it was fine, all the power was there and it would take off but then it started to go back to what it was doing so im going to fix those seals and see where we're at.

would a bad crank seal effect compression at all?? (sorry if this is a dumb question)?

[Matt]

No, they don't effect compression, just crankcase vacuum.

[JD600]

i have the gear puller for the flywheel

Please do not attempt to pull the flywheel with a 2 or 3 jaw puller. IF it pulls the flywheel off, it will most likely warp it rendering it useless, or the magnets may break and fall out. They make a tool for this as well. It must be pulled from the 3 bolt holes in the center hub of the flywheel. An actual small engine flywheel puller is best, but a harmonic ballancer puller can be used with the correct washers.

DE

[Sprailfire340]

An actual small engine flywheel puller is best, but a harmonic ballancer puller can be used with the correct washers.
DE

Dustin - do you have a link for a good small engine fw puller that you like? I've got a universal harmonic that works, but it is a bit clumbsy...

[JD600]

This is what i would recommend. Kind of pricey, but no more broken or bent bolts in the flywheel....

DE

https://www.denniskirk.com/cmp/universa ... d/2893.sku

[Sprailfire340]

Thanks

[TASKY]

I have one of those (dennis kirk puller) and I am none to happy with it. The center bolt on mine somehow got stripped and screwed up the threads in the plate. Although clumsy I use my harmonic balancer puller. It is just built better with better grades of steel. I think I even got mine at Sears of all places maybe some 15 years ago.

Whatever way you go make sure to use the right tool for the job. I read somewhere "if you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be electrical." I always like'd that saying even if it is wrong.

[JDT]

That is an example of why I do not shop at DK any more.

That puller was $36 a few years ago and was USA made. I bet now it is from china and made from steel that started out as a toyota bumper.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a good puller made in the US and pay half that.

[johndeerejamie]

yeah, i plan on using a harmonic balancer puller i have, i just need to buy the proper bolts to bolt into the flywheel. thanks for the advice

[johndeerejamie]

put in a good days work yesterday. only issue i had which sucks, the crank seals i got were apparently meant for the 300 kohler but im startin to think not. On the clutch side, it fits in but is completely different than the one that was on there originally. if i use it, i wont be able to put the plate with the four bolts back on (the plate has a indent that goes in, the new crank seal i have is flush with the side of the motor) I dont know if this makes sense at all its hard to put into words. I will maybe try to take a picture if no one understands.

on the flywheel side, its kind of the same thing, the metal housing that goes around the fan and the flywheel has a circular indent on the inside which had an O ring on it. the crank seal on this side just goes inside the the metal housing part, but the one that i got shipped to me is the right size to just install on the motor and will sit flush on the side of the motor but then the metal housing wont be flush.

maybe the ones i got are for a different model

[JDT]

I can only think of two reasons why the new seals do not fit.

a) they are too thick

or

b) they have a rib on the outside

Is that the problem?

[johndeerejamie]

i cant really describe it, its not the thickness its the overall diameter. they fit in the holes in the motor perfect but the original ones were smaller and fit inside the metal plate on the clutch side, and the fan tower housing on the other side. the metal plate and the fan tower each have a metal rib on it about an 1/8" thick that goes in the hole where the crank seal normally goes, which makes it impossible to make the ones i have fit.

does anyone have the actual measurements for the crank seals on the kohler 300?

[johndeerejamie]

so i took a better look today and made a couple measurements...
i guess from what ive researched, the crank seals are in metric measurements...not sure why.

the measurements on the new breed website are:
25 x 42 x 7
30 x 42 x 7

the first number must be the hole in the seal, the bigger one is obviously the clutch side. second number is the outside diameter.

on my engine the seals are not attached to the motor, they are attached to the fan housing and on the other side the metal plate that is bolted to the engine.

[Matt]

Those are correct according to the product listings in my catalog, but they could be wrong. I've got a complete gasket kit on the way - I'll see what seals are in there, as what comes the kits seems to be more accurate then the individual listings.

[JD600]

What about the old seals you pulled out of the motor? They should have numbers stamped on them just like the new ones.... And if they don't, they could be sized up with s set of calipers. Then you could just trot down to your local NAPA store and purchase them....

DE