Another frustrated 80,s Liquifire owner

[AirborneX4Special]

Mine is adjuster all the way out. If you ask me its almost like they made the threads on the cable too short. I500 when you restart yours does it putt at like 1k and die out when you give it gas? Mine is a bear to restart warm. Almost like you have 2 pulls then its like flooded and your back to pulling plugs and either.

I've primarily had this sort of issue on 80/81 LF's with the original ignition system. The choke setting is crucial for all of them but is conditon critical on non - HSR engines. The enricher (choke) settings can also be different with the console raised versus in the operating position, which is one more thing to try if all else fails. The oil pump calibration was changed in 82 to reduce oil consumption at idle and supposedly avoid some of this chicken@#*!.

[monte44]

I too have had the same problem on my 81. I switched it to the 82 and newer ignition and have never had a problem with the hard restarting. You are correct the choke adjustment is critical on the liquifires even with the hsr system. It seems like if you adjust the cable so the plungers seal tight it then wants to start hard! That is an ugly battle! Good luck and don't give up. It will be worth it. They just plain rip!!

[Danzig]

Chuck,
It's funny that you posted this and I am having the same problems. I was scyronizing the carbs on my '80 the other day and discoverd that I needed new carb boots. After installing them I can't get this beast to run. It fools out the plugs and is acting like it is too rich. Would the fact that it is close to 50 degrees outside have anything to do with it? I noticed the tubing for the power-jet is full of gas. Is this normal since the power jet is in the bottom of the bowl? My choke plungers look good but they may need replaced as well.
Pat

The fuel level in the hose should be the same level as what is in the float bowl at an idle.

[JDGuy]

My 80LF developed the above mentioned start, 1000 RPM idle, touch throttle, kills it. Start and let it run at 1000 RPM for a minute or so and then it would gradually make it to about 1500/1800 RPM on its own as it warmed up, then it would take throttle and idle at the 3500 RPM set. Run great and restart warm without problem until next cold start. Main coil and pulser and excitor coils checked good via JD ignition tester. Replaced original equipment CDI with NOS, starts and immediately runs at the 3500 idle set. CDI was my problem. Apparently (?) a thermal/advance problem within CDI that developed suddenly.

[feere the deere]

I had the problem of hard starting and fuel running out the exhaust on a 77 Liquifire I had
purchased. The fuel pump was letting gas sump through when sitting and filling
the crankcase up. Rebuilt the fuel pump and problem was solved.

[Danzig]

My 80LF developed the above mentioned start, 1000 RPM idle, touch throttle, kills it. Start and let it run at 1000 RPM for a minute or so and then it would gradually make it to about 1500/1800 RPM on its own as it warmed up, then it would take throttle and idle at the 3500 RPM set. Run great and restart warm without problem until next cold start. Main coil and pulser and excitor coils checked good via JD ignition tester. Replaced original equipment CDI with NOS, starts and immediately runs at the 3500 idle set. CDI was my problem. Apparently (?) a thermal/advance problem within CDI that developed suddenly.

Is there an echo in here...

[Liquifried]

This post makes me happy. Good to know we're not alone. I have battled similar issues and it is good to know after having thought I was gonna have heart attack pull starting these things or on the verge of tears to getting out the chainsaw or sledgehammer. I have been fortunate enough and patient enough that the kinks keeping working themselves out. They should have made these sleds with electric start mandatory. I have two restored 80 LF's with new motors and have found once they are running, good gas, klotz and sea foam keep them going strong. My summer project is going to be an 83 LF and I have two that I am working from. I will be curious to experience the upgrades on the coil/cdi and enjoy the difference. Until then, the battle continues!

[400brian]

I've been in this hole with my 340/S for several years now, so it is not just the Kawis.
I have spent many $$ buying ignition systems and such, and so far everytime I think I'm winning, it kicks my butt again. I will figure it out if I live long enough, but right now, I really, really, hate CDI , as my points sleds run.
I've even threatened to convert the 340/S to points!

[Mr. Deere]

Hmmmm. I would definitely be willing to convert my ignition to Hsr if it would help. Danzig can you maybe explain in some detail how exactly you set the chokes on these? Kinda confused by Monte44s post. Thanks.

[harleysportster]

The 80+ Fire Series chokes have a normal start position of the choke level by flipping the lever up so it is straight out/up. For very cold starts, you should be able to flip the lever past the center as explained in the owners manual. This "very cold" start position is only possible is the cables are adjusted correctly. If you use the choke cable measurements as outlined in the owners/service manual, you may have to loosen the cables to allow the " full open/past center position" of the lever.
The normal choke position raises the plunger approx 1/2 up in the choke bore. The full open position raises the plunger all the way up in the bore if you were to look into the choke air passage-way.

[Danzig]

Exactly harley, i set my choke plungers with the carbs installed on the engine and used a mirror and flashlight to set half and full choke, it was not easy but i got it done, the airbox has to be removed naturally to look down the choke opening.

[Horicon Joe]

Well said Harley .... I also found that the instructions in the shop manual on how the chokes are to be set is not sufficient. I too use the choke bore hole as a
visual guide to double check if they are set properly. With a small light, as you are looking in the choke bore, flip the choke up and it should be half covering the
bore and almost all the way up on full choke position. With the choke off I will also sight down the choke bore and make they are seating properly by lightly lifting the choke lever and make sure they don't move immediately as you lift it ( there needs to be free play to insure seating). A second thing I do to make it start and run easier on new builds is to make sure there is no belt tension on the primary clutch by twisting down the secondary on the belt. I do this while I sink the carbs to insure a smooth idle to start with. When it idles smoothly flip the choke lever and the engine should kill if set properly.

[Mr. Deere]

Thanks. It sounds like I have mine set right. I will double check. Joe that's a good idea! I've noticed it does drag and make it harder to pull. You think switching to hsr would be worth it?

[AirborneX4Special]

The biggest issue, especially on the 80/81 ignition and corresponding oil pump calibration, is that your enricher plunger actually does close when the lever is returned to the supposed "off" position. I've fought the chokes on my 81 for several years and it still makes more 2 - stroke haze and subsequent "cologne" on my clothes compared my 82, even
to the point of making my eyes water from the exessive "rich" mixture. It fouls more plugs than the HSR types and starts much harder after it's warm, but I've decided that's part of the game on those machines. I'm thinking any conversion to the HSR system on an 80/81 sled would be a nearly impossible parts chase, up to and including the updated flywheel and magnets. Then there's that elusive combination cdi/coil pack, p/n AM55416.

[Mr. Deere]

Well my original motor was an hsr setup so I have the parts. Also what about converting to hand chokes? I know they sell the setup with the little levers that bolt on the Carb.