CCW Ignition Help

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:45 pm

Hello,

I've never owned a snowmobile before but I picked up a 1972/73 JD model 600 for free from a friends field. The sled is intact but not running and I have already re-homed the mice that were in the head box. I have no spark... Well I can get spark with a test light but I can't arc a plug, weak spark.

I have unplugged the harness and the weak spark is the same on both plugs. I have removed the flywheel and cleaned the innards and sanded the points. The coils look good as do the solder joints. The main external coil leads (low voltage) have the same ohn reading to ground. I have also cleaned behind the flywheel coils to make the grounding solid. The magnets in the flywheel fee strong with a screwdriver test and I'm lost where to continue. Does anyone have any ideas? Whatever my problem is it is the same for both cylinders.

Thanks a lot,
Craig

JDFanPa · Post by **JDFanPa** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:06 am

sounds like you need to clean points better Ive had to clean points multiple times to get them right in the past.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:50 am

Did you remove the points so you could get a good look at them?
There's a good chance the points are still the problem. If they are well worn, you might consider replacing them.

It is interesting that both sides are looking exactly the same.
The plug caps and wires could have issues, especially if they are originals.

Sounds like you are on the right track though.

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:43 pm

I took the points out today and I don't think that they were making good contact. What is the correct gap for re-install? I assume that I re-install the flywheel and gap them through the flywheel windows when the points are riding on the flywheel excentric?
Thanks,
Craig

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 7:38 pm

Well I set the points to 16thou and it sparked up great. I also cleaned the crud out of the carb and got the sled to run. I can't get it to idle or run without a cap of quick start in the carb face. I know this isn't the best for a 2stroke so what are the carb settings for baseline on the idle and highspeed screw?

Thanks,

harleysportster · Post by **harleysportster** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:12 pm

Craig,
Great to here you have spark now. Before you go any further, I would dissasemble/clean the carb very well. You could have clogged jets which are 2 stroke's worst enemy.

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:46 pm

I took the carb apart and the main jet is clean but the sled runs rich with both idle and highspeed screws in tight so something is pissing gas in anyway. It will rev up to the point of clutch engagement but no more, I figure that the iginition timing is not set because its adjusted all the way to one side on the metal ring. Some has been in there before and mucked it all up.

I figure I need a carb kit, are they easy to find? Its a walboro. I've pissed neighbours off enough for one day, time to have a drink

Thanks,
Craig

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:50 pm

Kits are easy to find, centralsnowmobile has them in stock, this is in Green Bay, Wisconsin, look to spend about $30.00 or so.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:51 am

Acording to my service manual, all CCW points should be set to .014 in.

Get the carb rebuilt. While it is apart, make sure you check the metering lever setting.
This is akin to setting the float on a conventional carb. Replace your fuel lines, and particularly the pulse line between the carb and crankcase.

I assume you have seen the timing proceedure in the FAQs

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 8:16 pm

I saw the timing procedure but was unclear about what test light was talked about? Is this just a 12v test or a neon spark tester and where does it go?
Thanks,
Craig

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:31 pm

What is shown in the SM, is a flashlight with two wires with alligator clips.

What the light is showing you is when the points open. When the points are closed, juice flows, when the points open, the light dims because of the added resistance of juice flowing to ground through the coil. The light shoud not go out.

So, any self powered, low voltage test light or buzzer should work for this purpose.
I don't see why an ohm meter should not work as well. Any device that will show the increase in resistance as you turn the engine, moving the points.

A dial indicator in the plug hole, is pretty much required to do this right.

Deleted User · Post by **Deleted User** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:08 pm

Well I used a dial indicator and a multimeter, the multimeter doesn't change as the points open because there is always that path to ground through the coil in the flywheel area. Anyway, during this exercise I pulled the plugs and realized that I was trying to do my tuning last night on 1 cylinder. Upon closed inspection I'm not sparking the #1 cyl. and swapping the coil leads doesn't fix it, ie. the issue is with the points, condensor or coil in that cyl. More fun, oh well. I'm still in this for free at this point.
Craig,

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:00 am

You should see a change in the ohm value as the points open.
In the " before I dive in" post in this section, Paul mentions the ohm difference he saw on his '73 X8.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:50 am

My meter also has built in beeper, this also helped.