Paradise lost....

[Viktory2k1]

I never replaced the crank seals but I do believe they are ok.

[Viktory2k1]

These are the only pics I have right now and they are when I first got it. They are from a phone at night. If I can only find my camera.

[lwb140]

looks like im 4 hours south of you , wade

[lwb140]

if theyve never been replaced they definely need it jdt todd has a great tuturial in the tech section on the sight about bringing a barn find to life , it is discussed there , wade

[Viktory2k1]

PM my your phone #

[lwb140]

765-918-8650 most everyone on the site already has it !!

[Viktory2k1]

calling....

[lwb140]

enjoyed the visit tonight , i wander about comprssion ? youve , checked and double checked fuel and spark , id look into that , you say it pulls over hard maybe a scored piston ? wade

[HoosierDeereMan]

Victory2k1,

From the way I'm reading your posts it sounds like you have a good ignition system. You just have way too much fuel in the cylinders for the system to fire it. So this leads me back to the fuel system.

What gas/oil ratio did you mix you new gas? It should be 50:1.

The fuel pick up line inside the tank should have a screened check ball on the end of it. It prevents fuel from entering the carb when the engine is not running. If the old pick up line has dissolved or came loose from the fitting and is rattling around loose in the tank and your needle and seat isn't shutting off the flow of gas you can fill the engine crankcase with gas.

I know you said you cleaned the carb but did you totaly dissasemble it and soak it in a dip can with a good carb cleaner or just take the bowl off and shot it with a spray can? If the smallest particle got stuck in your needle and seat it could be letting gas pass by it when it should not. Everytime you pull the rope, the fuel pump could be pushing unwanted gas right past a slightly open needle into the idle circuit of the carb causing the too much gas issue.

I have taken carbs apart 3 and 4 times before I got all the crud out of them. The thing to remember is the carb may be spotless to start with but new gas will cut varnish and crud away from the inside of the fuel pump and can wind up in the carb.

You mentioned the Champion plugs not being available. NGK makes a BUE plug that is the surface gap equivilent to the Champion.

Keep us posted.

Troy

[JDT]

I personaly like the surface gap plugs on an engine that has real good spark.

They seam to have very few problems.

[Viktory2k1]

Thanks for all the replies! Great talking with Wade!
Here is todays updates:
I double checked the carb flange and no air leaks although its not in new condition, not the problem. I decided to go through carb again since it was off. Last time I soaked it this time I just removed needle and air screw and blew compressed air through all passages. I did not notice anything wrong. I did notice that bowl was not very full but may have drained while disassembling. Threw it all back together and tried it. Fired on first pull and then nothing. I forgot to turn fuel back on so did that. Pulled 10 times with nothing. Removed plugs and now look dry. Checked spark and it was not consistant. First 2 pulls none, third pull weak but regular on left side nothing on right, a few more pulls and both sparking. Put other plugs in and checked spark. Kinda weak but sparking. Installed and choked any pulled away, fired on first pull but nothing after that. Pulled plugs and not wet but slightly damp. At this point I am going to check fuel output at carb(gas can I used was not the cleanest) removed fuel line at carb and broke rope on first pull. Took recoil off and looked over service manual. Doesn't look like the easiest rope to replace. I will replace it though.
I need to check fuel filter(inline) Last fuel check was at tank and I need to double check at carb.
Now I am starting to think CDI. I do not understand how a strong CDI will fire hotter. I thought the CDI just tells the coils when to fire, not generate a spark. Maybe someone here(Wade) has an extra for me to try? Maybe some coils? I have to deal with the broken rope first.
Thank you for all the help,
Vic

[harleysportster]

I thought the CDI just tells the coils when to fire, not generate a spark. Vic

To simplify the cdi ignition,
The Stator has to sets of windings, one for ignition, one for lighting.
Ignition current from the stator is feed to the cdi box which has capacitors in it storing the current.
The trigger ring under the flywheel signals a transitor to release the stored current in the capacitors, sending it to the external coils.
The external coils amplify the current, creating a spark.

[Viktory2k1]

That is exactly what I thought.
If the caps are not as good as they were once, will they delay the spark? All they do is send signal voltage to the coils and it's up to those to generate the spark?
Now I got a rewind spring on my living room floor the size of a small car. I gave up on it for the night. Anyone ever use the Dura-fix spring winder? seems much better then winding it by hand but thats what I am going to do, another day.
Later,
Vic

[Viktory2k1]

Ok.
Got recoil together but not on yet. Lets see if this rope is any good.
My question is: Should I just put recoil on and pull away or pull flywheel and check for problems?
I think I have enough room for the bolt-grip puller without removing motor.
Later...............

[harleysportster]

I would ditch the surface gap plugs for now and try NGK B10ES. The surface gap plugs demand a top performing CDI system to work. If you didn't read any of the posts in the FAQ section, check this one out for the CDI.
http://www.green-sleds.com/community/vi ... 34994a6aaf
The CDI system generates a much hotter and more consistant spark than the tradtitional points systems, when they work, but they are harder to diagnos when something goes wrong.