Runs but I am not satisfied

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 3:38 am

Yes Paul

You adjust the air screws to get the highest idle RPM, reset the idle screw if needed, then re-adjust again.

If you have the screws turned out way more than the book setting, you have a too large pilot jet, and if you have it pretty much turned in, you have a too small pilot jet.

Obviously, this should be done at the temp you are going to run at for best results.

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:33 am

How will I know when I'm fined tuned....Quote Paul file. 6 or 7 Coronas!

Think about this. The settings the book gives you are base settings and are what gets the thing running. I know this from dealing with Walbro's. My experience here with Mik's is very limited. My guess is you have to have the timing set dead on by the book. No exceptions. Once the timing is right you can start reading the plugs. Not sure on the liq but the Walbros tell you to run at WOT and hit the kill switch. Pull each plug and adjust the carb from there. I think that would apply to Mikunis as well. I think the mik's are very outside temp sensitive. That's why they publish the temp slide chart for jetting the carb. I would focus on finding the source of the fuel contamination first. Once that is fixed, I'd wait until snow flies. If you have the correct jetting how far off can you be? Just my opionion!

427cobra · Post by **427cobra** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:31 am

Paul,

This could be a shot in the dark but....

Is the gas can you use to fuel up your sleds clean? Seems like both your sleds had problems with dirt/debris in the fuel systems. Your gas can could be the common source.

-Eric

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:54 pm

topped it off today with 6 gallons of straight 93 octane fuel. Sprayed the motor with starting fluid till I ran the can dry. No increase in idle. I played with the mixture screws a bit and put them back to 1.5 turns out till the temp is lower outside. Nothing really changed playing with these screws. I even had each of them screwed in all the way one carb at a time. I didnt notice a change with them all the way in, backing them out past the 1.5 I noticed a sound of pre-ignition pinging, I quickly took them back to the book specs. The carbs are jetted per Rich's specs. It runs real good when running, just getting it started on one pull cold with the choke on and getting it started on one pull with the engine hot on one pull is the issue.

427cobra · Post by **427cobra** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 3:42 pm

Paul,

I had my carbs sync'd on my 80 LF. This made it a lot easier to start. Always started on the 2nd or 3rd pull when cold. Then first pull after it was warm...with no choke.

Mine also flooded easily.

If I choked it and it was still warm it would flood the machine and would be near impossible to start....very touchy!! Have to pull the plugs wait...then try again. Carb cleaner or starting fluid would not make a difference.

-Eric

Mr. Deere · Post by **Mr. Deere** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:25 pm

Danzig you actually trust you oil system. Every time I shut it off and restart the lines are always near empty. My fuel pump is the same way one will be full the other will be half. Once it runs its all set but i wouldn't trust it because on startup there would be no oil. BOB

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:28 pm

Bob-
If it isnt working then I will shuck the bearings out also, there is an oil line going to the crankcase. I also removed the lines when it was running and tested it for oil flow. Which it was flowing.

400Chris · Post by **400Chris** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:29 pm

Bob, did you bleed your oil pump?

Chris

Mr. Deere · Post by **Mr. Deere** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:59 pm

Yes I did but it still gets air in it. Like in pockets. I think its because I have a smaller diameter on the filter then what I have on the pump so i ran the little line into the big one. I haven't had a chance to hose clamp it but this might be my problem. BOB

Rodimus Prime · Post by **Rodimus Prime** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:15 am

sigh this is going on too long if you have hard starting suddenly after antifreeze leak into ring area the rings, if your lucky, are glazed. If not lucky they cracked. The other possible explanation for hard starting is poped gaskets or seals which happens when people dont used sealants on older engines.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:31 pm

Update-

Temp outside is 42 degrees.

Choke on, one pull it didnt start.
Choke on, second pull it started.

Left choke on for about 20 seconds while running, flipped choke off and over road the throttle for about 30 seconds and it idles again at 3200rpms.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:37 pm

Rodimus Prime wrote: sigh this is going on too long if you have hard starting suddenly after antifreeze leak into ring area the rings, if your lucky, are glazed. If not lucky they cracked. The other possible explanation for hard starting is poped gaskets or seals which happens when people dont used sealants on older engines.

Rod-

You act like this is killing you to read this. SIGH--????

I am sorry I dont have all the skills and snowmobile expertise as you and its getting a bit old. You dont have to read anything here if you dont want to. I dont have the big fancy garage with years of sled experience under my belt. I think I fit right in with more than half the members on this forum and we are all (most of us that is) learning as we go. Give me break!

Mr. Deere · Post by **Mr. Deere** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:29 pm

Damn sounds like I need to get some new gaskets then. BOB