78 Liquifire rebuild!

[400brian]

I have a lot of stuff to finish up if I want to take this sled to St Germain for the RWTC . With the tunnel painted, this evening I test fit the seat to see how it interfaces with the tail light and the T-nuts in the plywood. I installed the carbs, lettered the dash, cleaned and then shot the fuel tank with some Krylon Fusion to freshen it up.

The carbs really fit tight in the new Mikuni boots. I sprayed the surfaces with a bit silicone spray lube, but they still put up a fight. The right hand carb I finally pried into place with a short flat pry bar.

[400brian]

The freshened up dash turned out pretty good.

The controls have been installed on the handle bar. I drilled and used an NOS Spitfire throttle block, and the original kill switch was re-installed.
The aftermarket dimmer switch is also being held by a modified Spitfire throttle block. The freshened up K&H master is also now in place.

I am waiting on some self adhesive foam that I will use to adjust the position of the fuel tank. The tank is not fitting tight in the dash tower, and I would like to move it rearward just a bit to close the 1/4" gap between the tank and the seat, as I have the seat where I want it.

[400brian]

Progress was made today. The goal was to get the fuel tank and seat located and matched to each other and the tunnel.

I stuck pieces of 3/8" x 1" high density self adhesive foam to the underside of the fuel tank, and found that brought the tank up high enough to make it fit snuggly into the handlebar support. This also brought the tank up high enough to closely match the seat height! To close the gap between the tank and the seat, I ran the foam around the support where the tank came up against it, thus moving the tank back.

To allow the use of the original tank clips, I cut spacers out of 1/4" aluminum plate, and was able to pop rivet the clips into the original holes in the tunnel.

A new tail light was installed.

[400brian]

With the tank and seat bolted down, and the tail light installed, it was time to install the snow flap.

Typically, 78 snow flaps are held on by large head pop rivets. I am not a fan of that, so I dug out a black flap strip I had, painted it and applied a new stripe. Today I dug out some stainless steel hardware I had on hand, and the reproduction snow flap I had purchased a while back.

So, the rear end of the sled is looking pretty good!

I cleaned the air box, and replaced one carb boot that had a tear in it, so it should be ready to go.

I later decided it was time to do some plumbing, so I wound up installing the coolant hoses between the engine, heat exchanger, and radiator.
With the coolant hoses routed, I then started running the fuel lines. The routing of the fuel line coming out from the tank may have to re-routed because of it making contact with the pull rope. All the moving parts need to be accounted for.

[400brian]

So now I am down to the stuff where I can piddle around in the garage for hours and no real progress is apparent. However, it all needs to be done.

To finish up the brake caliper, I installed the pressure switch that will activate the brake light. With the wire terminals pushed onto the studs, it is close to the fuel line, but there is no contact.

The placement of the fuel lines is still a work in progress. The lines from the pump to the carbs is an example. I have ran the line low, kinda in the middle, and in the photo I have bolted a double clamp on the corner of the coolant tank and am bringing the lines over the top. It remains to be seen if they remain there.

I pulled the water pump off to look underneath it. I was sure that I had installed a new o-ring when I had bolted that pump on, but there was no o-ring present. So after a little clean up that will be rectified. Glad I checked that before I started dumping coolant in.

Looking in the service manual at the coolant fill procedure, it shows opening a vent screw on the top of the head. I put a 10mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet and tested the screw. I quickly decided I was going twist it off! I tried the drain screw at the bottom of the block, and that broke loose with little effort. I then grabbed a punch and a hammer, and gave the vent screw a couple of raps on the head. It then broke loose with little effort. Well, that was great! So I think I am about ready to fill with coolant.

The plastic skis for this sled have been sitting in the basement ready to go for years, but I had not yet prepped the shocks. This is the fourth set of plastic skis I have installed on sleds, so this is nothing new. I drilled the eyes of the shocks out to 7/16" to match the holes in the ski brackets and spring saddle. These bolts will be cut to length when I install the shocks. I still have to cut the tube spacers that keep the shocks centered.

I also dug around in the shop and located the NOS snow flap support I had been saving for this project. The stainless braided brake line should be here shortly, I can then finish up the brake system. And as I said, a lot of wiring and plumbing to go yet.

Several have asked when I am going to fire it up? I guess the answer is when I run out of anything else to do.

[400brian]

The brake line arrived today from Wahl Racing. So eventually I headed down to the garage to see if it would fit.
I had measured the length I needed on two different occasions by using a piece of fuel line. I had come up with 26", and it turned out that Wahl sold one in that length. This line came with a male fitting on each end, so I purchased a 90 degree elbow with a swivel on it so I could connect it to my K&H caliper.
I screwed the line into the master, then screwed my elbow into the caliper, then tightened the swivel fitting onto the line to complete the job. I ran the line down the underside of the bar, attaching it with electrical tape in front of the dash, and a zip tie behind the dash. I took care to locate it where it would not rub or bind on the dash panel.
Originally the K&H brakes were plumbed with plastic line with a compression fitting on each end. As far as I know, only the 340/S bar pad was designed to accommodate the juice brake set up.
I spent the rest of the evening carving on the bar pad, determined to modify it enough to be able to use it. I did not want to carve on an NOS pad I had saved, so I am using a well used one. I don't know if the Tinnerman nuts on the plastic studs will hold the bar pad together, so I will probably have to use a few zip ties as well. I shot the pad with some Fusion before I left for home, so it will have a fresh look.

[400brian]

Trying to make the bar pad fit over the juice brake set up. Kinda feels like trying to squeeze Sydney Sweeny into an A cup.

This was last night before I shot the pad with some Fusion black. I will almost certainly have to put zip ties on the three ends, as the plastic studs and corresponding holes have deteriorated, and I doubt the Tinnerman nuts will provide enough clamping force.

I did some trimming internally to allow for the hose and externally around the brake master. But I think I can live with it.

[400brian]

The skis are pretty much ready to install.

[400brian]

The grab bar got a fresh coat of Blitz Black, and is now bolted to the rear of the sled with stainless hardware, along with a new flap support.

I also quit procrastinating and got the bulk of the wiring done. The brake light had to be converted to working with the pressure switch on the caliper. The aftermarket dimmer switch needed to be spliced in, and the bar warmers needed to be wired in from scratch.

These were the older 2 wire bar warmers, but they can be wired in such a way with a 6 pole double throw toggle switch to convert them to hi / low warmers. Basically, in low power you have the heater cartridges connected in series, and then in parallel for high.

[400brian]

It wasn't as cold tonight, only single digits below zero, and the wind was calm, so I headed down to the garage to get back on the sled.

The first thing I did was install the reproduction boot on the kill switch. I got that from New Breed, and the installation went well. First I removed the plastic switch retainer, then cut the old boot off. I had been warned to be careful not to break the face of the switch off as they are brittle after 50 years. I shot a little WD-40 into the switch, and inside the new boot. I had the boot in my chest shirt pocket to keep it warm. I slid the new boot over the face, got one side of the boot started underneath it, and rolled it on with my fingers. No tools required, way easier than I expected.

With that done I moved on to the bar pad installation. I had trimmed it to fit before I shot it with Fusion a few days ago. I got the 6 studs I had to work with through the holes, and dug out the Tinnerman nuts that needed to be put on. A nut driver would help here, but I packed a 11/32 socket with paper towel until the nut sat flush in it and started putting them on. As this was a used pad, the studs had threads cut into them and they went on pretty good. The trick is to not get greedy and try to turn them too tight. I put a zip tie on each side to hold the pad together where the left side stud had been trimmed off, and the right side had been broken off. I guess I can live with the result. I then slid the repro rubber hand grips onto the bar.

I then moved on to the carbs. I set the enrichener cables so there was a little slack. Then with the throttle lever pinned to the bar I set the wide open throttle position of the slide. After that I set the idle position of the slide, and set the air screws to the book.

I am pretty close to a test bark. Not quite ready to dump coolant in it yet, but I could shoot a little fuel in the carbs, I haven't heard it run in 15 years.

[400brian]

The small coolant hoses went on the engine, and the belt cover was installed.

Fuel lines were run from the fuel pump to the carbs, and vent lines were installed on the carbs, and the fuel tank.

The brake line fitting on the caliper was repositioned slightly as I found the starter rope was making contact with the brake line. That has been resolved. The rope is also making slight contact with the fuel line coming out of the tank, so I may have re-route the line, as the rope is where the rope is going to be. The D-handle was installed on the end of the rope, so I can pull the rope now.

I went to install the new water temperature gauge, but before I did I asked the posse if there was anything I should know? It turned out that was a good idea. While the gauge fitting would screw into the head, I was told I was missing a brass fitting that was required. On my way home from the garage tonight I stopped at the shop and took a look at a used LF head I had. Sure enough, there was the aforementioned fitting. The one that came out of my LF engine is no doubt around the shop somewhere as I rarely toss anything, but I don't know where it is. I will get this one out and ready to install.

I filled a 6 gallon can with "Git R Done 91" premix on my way home from getting the hose clamps for the small hoses today, so things are poised for a test bark and first start up.

[400brian]

It is the little stuff that bites ya. I got the temp gauge adaptor fitting out of the spare head, but on cleaning it up I discovered that this steel fitting has significant corrosion inside, and I don't want to use it.

Brass versions are available on ebay, so I have an adaptor fitting and the gasket coming. The 2 different exhaust springs are available, so they were ordered as well. The exhaust on the 78's are a known weak spot, so I wanted some good tight springs.

[400brian]

Tuesday the 27th had us out in the garage with the idea of doing a test fire of the 78 LF.

Katy and I had went down to the shop and brought back the 78 hood that was gathering dust back in a corner. We decided to do the test fire at that point. So, I got a bit of premix in a squirt bottle, put a little in each bowl, and then after opening the throttle shot some in each carb throat.

A couple of pulls got me nothing, we did a spark check and saw nothing...AHHH the kill switch is on! So we have established that it works. With the plug back in we were ready to go. Katy held the phone to record the event. Go here to see it; https://www.facebook.com/reel/3310169775815330 If that doesn't work let me know.

After the successful test, I started cleaning the hood. The foam on the inside was garbage, so that had to go. An effort was made to remove the lingering adhesive. I then began cleaning off 15 years worth of dust. The hood needs a full resto, it is missing paint, paint is crazed and blistered, there are cracks in the rear edges, and the hinge is bent. But it will have to do for this season.

What appears to be the original windshield is in surprisingly good condition. No huge scratches, a few cracks around the mounting holes. The black trim is still in place, but it is a bit hazy after all the years. It is about 2" taller than what is currently being sold. I prefer a new crystal clear windshield, but I may polish on this one to see if I can bring it back a bit.

[jep_800]

As with Brian's Vintage Challenge recaps, you will not get a more thorough deep dive into the progress of a restoration project.

Great write-up Brian, and keep it coming!!

[400brian]

Thank you Jason! I hope the finish line is nearing.