I was looking to set the speedometer drive on my 76 LF 340, and good thing I did, as the bearing on PTO side was well on its way to complete failure!
the service manual instructs to remove the driver bolts and move the drivers to centre of shaft in order to access the flange bolts...
anyone have success with this process?! I can't see these sprockets moving after 40 years! its a real pain to remove the drivers as is but it is possible and I have removed mine now.
anyone comments/suggestions/experiences are much welcomed! Also, suggestions on the best bearings to get for the track drive would be appreciated. I do have the JD numbers that I found on the site.
Removing and re-installing the drive axle is no fun under even the best of circumstances. The slide rail sleds are the worst because the drivers are near the edges, necessitating moving them. It is hard to get at the bearing flange bolts with the drivers in the installed position.
I have done JDX8s with the same drive system. It is easiest with the sled on it's back, but I have also done it with then on their side. You pretty much need to get one of the drivers to move. I have found them either loose on the shaft or corroded so tight they have to be cut off. Being as the drivers are no longer available, you would prefer to save them. Get the bolts out of them and see what you have. Post some pics.
As to the bearings; These are common bearings, I prefer USA made Timkens. However, I'm not sure they even exist anymore. I have been using bearings sold by my Case/IH dealer. Wahl Racing may have them in a cold weather variation. Matt has them at New Breed Parts.
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
'10, '11, '12, '13,'14,'15,'16,'17, '18, 19, 20, 21, 22 Vintage Challenge Survivor !
72 400 restored, Father bought new in '71
73 X8 restored
'74 340 green machine
'74 X8 9 time VC finisher
'78 Spitfire in progress
2 '75 340S 1 running, one on deck
'78 LF 440 future CC clone
'73 Skiroule RTX 440, 500 mi.
The left or engine pto/speedo side normally fails first from water corrosion. It can lock up the races, spin the bearing on the shaft and ruin the bearing mounting surface making the shaft junk. Been there, experienced that. Your best bet in replacing that bearing is to use a re-lube bearing and associated bearing mounting flangettes with zerk fitting. The bearing has a small grease hole in the outer race and the flangettes have a 360 degree grove cut in them for grease path flow. Both are common parts, commonly used on some Ag equipment. The following Fafnir Co. numbers fit the fire series Liquifires and many Arctic Cats, beyond that I do not know. Bearing: GRA100RRB, Flangettes: G52MSA & G52MSB (both are required). The chain case side bearing (RA100RRB without lube hole) seldom fails, presumably it gets some oil past the seal (?). To facilitate that we drill a small 1/16th hole in the oil side seal. Granted, when we do that we are relying on the snow side seal to retain the chain case oil, but that has never been a problem on the JD's or several Arctic Cats getting high mileage afterward. As a side note, it is good to put a sealer on the outer diameter portion of the flangettes to prevent grease flowing outward/ between them as they can be locally distorted from mounting bolt torque, primarily from over tightening.
