Walbro Question

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:55 pm

I was wondering if anyone had ever had the throttle shaft bores redone on a Walbro?
I have a few WDA-32's that are wore and you can see the throttle butterfly shaft wiggle in the bore when you work it without the retaining clip on the end of the shaft. What kind of clearance or play is acceptable?

Thanks, Troy

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:20 pm

I need a good blown up diagram for rebuilding my Walbro 37. I did it over the weekend and now I can't even get gas to it. I think I may have something put together wrong in it. I'm going to tear it apart again tonight.

GRP

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:45 pm

Ok, disregard my last post. I took it apart and put it back together again. Checked everything out, blew a little air into the return line, and heard the gas go into the carb. Then I started moving the high and low jets and bang, she took off!

Now if I get any snow to see how good she runs! Well after I get my stiches out tomarrow!

Man, she sure wants to go!

GRP

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:05 pm

Put some zippers on it.

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:11 pm

Well, the Doc might just do that! She's pretty sharp but she threatened me to pull the stiches out so the knot goes through my skin because she said I was a knot head!

Hee Hee....

I've got a good Doc!

Just got to get the steering arms and center tab replaced.

GRP

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:23 pm

No Gary, put zippers on the Carb.

Rodimus Prime · Post by **Rodimus Prime** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:30 pm

to answer guestion of shaft bore bushings yes you can get some its very difficult you have to get the original shaft area overboared ( almost but not quite a drill bit) install brass bushings peen into place smooth inside carb throat bore and then line bore for proper shaft size.. cost is about 100 + or you can find a good used body or nos cheaper usually.

have also heard of some people welding holes shut and drilling new holes in drill press.. havent done it myself but thought i would mention it.

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:51 pm

Ha Danzig, for how manytimes I've taken that apart this past weekend I think I already have zippers on it.

I have taught myself a lot about these old carbs. With all the good advice I've gotten on this site by many of you, and going through the actual parts (many times I might add) I'm begining to think I know what I'm doing! (thats scary in its self sometimes).

Any way, I can't wait until I can get the X4 out and see what kind of improvement I've made to it. Now I don't feel so afraid to get into some of the other sleds and clear up some problems.

I'm looking forward to getting the 600 going and I'm thinking that the other sleds will be good summer projects. By god I'm going to have a pretty good herd of sleds here in the next year.

As for the X4... I was thinking.....

Hell, if I get it going fast enough I won't have to worry about those 8' ditches and just go over them!

Ha,, right......

GRP

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:49 am

Rodimus Prime, thanks for the reply. I found a local small engine shop that claims he can do this. I was just wondering if anyone had had any success with it? Also I'm wondering about these replacement Walbro needles that I'm getting. The originals have a rubber tip in the needle end and the groove for the arm is narrow and fits very nicely. The new replacement tips are metal and the groove it twice as wide for the arm. This has to effect the .005" to .020" adjustment for the arm. I'm looking for any reason this carb will not idle properly and respond in low end properly. I have tried two other carbs on this same engine and they work fine. That rules out the engine. I hate to give up. These things are hard to find in my neck of the woods and it usually ends up being something very simple anyway.

Post by **Matt** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:02 am

Troy,
I could be wrong, but I always thought the rubber tip needles were a replacement, and the original correct ones were hard tips. I like to avoid the the rubber tips because it seems they could easily get stuck in the seat. I never noticed a difference in the groove though.

Looks like you have a nice collection of 00 series there!

afponiky · Post by **afponiky** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:51 am

Troy, I found the same thing in my rebuild kit. I used the old needle that was in the carb. The replacement was different. I didn't want to be bending up the metal clip and it looked brand new so I put it in. It runs great now!
One thing I found out was after you put the carb together tight with the screws, wait an hour and tighten it up again. The new gaskets have to compress and then get re-tightened.

You may have to do this a few times. Mine leaked real bad at first until I re-tightened it. I'm going to do it again today.

Make sure you get everything exactly replaced in the proper order. I finally had to take another one apart section by section while doing the same with the rebuilt one to make sure I had it proper. I had one piece on the wrong side of the gasket and it wouldn't work.

Let me know if you need help.

GRP

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:25 am

Once I get this picture thing figured out, I will take a photo of the two needles side by side for comparison. You guys have already been a wealth of knowledge. I now have another problem. After spending a few hours in the carb cleaner the vacuum spigot for the hose that runs to the crankcase came out of the carb plate. What is best to use to install this to get a good seal that gas will not effect over time?