Crank seals on a Kohler 295, '76 300

EricR · Post by **EricR** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:27 pm

Hello All!

My dad picked up a '76 JD 300 at a farm auction on my behalf, it was coated in polebarn dust but once cleaned looks spotless. THe old timer selling out said it "needed crank seals" $150 was the bid.

Now here is the kicker- I live 1400 miles away in Georgia, some of you may know me from vintagesleds.com, I have my sleds at dad's in central MN.

Dad hasn't the arm at 79 nor the gumption to mess with it, and I am coming up in the end of January to MN for Waconia's event. I will likely ride my good running '73 Ski Doo Oly, but would like to get the Deere running.

Since I haven't time to wrench on it myself, dad has asked around, and been told that if it indeed needs seals, the engine has to come out and be totally torn down. Cost prohibitive and I can't pay someone ten hours of labor to do this job at 75 per, sled ain't worth it that way.

However I was told by someone I consider a good two stroke authority that usually it's the PTO side that gives way, and one can just pop the Salsbury clutch off and do the seal through there.

Dad said the fuel system was run dry, so hopefully no goop there.

He has someone that is going to try and get her started and we will see how it goes.

If anyone can enlighten my on those seals I'd appreciate it!

Eric

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:51 pm

If the seals are bad and it is started it will only run a few minutes and then you will need a lot more than $10 worth of seals.

Pistons will melt down, cylinder may be ruined and it could be worse.

Don't chance it. Tear it down.

Post by **Matt** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:30 am

Eric, I just tore down an '83 sled that BOTH crank seals were completely shot on, so like Todd said, you are risking more damage by not tearing it down.

I'm guessing it has a Walbro carb, which will probably have to be rebuilt. If they are stored with fuel, it gums up the small holes. If stored without fuel, the gaskets dry out.

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 1:11 pm

Eric,

Along with what Todd and Matt suggested I would also replace all the old gas lines and the impluse line from the engine to the carburetor. Make sure all the lines are secured by hose clamps. I would recommend pulling the metal pick up fitting out of the plastic gas tank and checking or replacing the ball check at the end of the pick up line. Depending on what the bottom of the tank looks like you may have to flush it.

Good Luck.

EricR · Post by **EricR** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 12:28 pm

Anybody know what a 295 Kohler wieghs? I am thinkin' I can yank it when I come up in Nov for deer hunting, pack it in a cooler and have pops drop it off at the Greyhound station (the absolute CHEAPEST way to get big bulky stuff shipped) and send 'er down to Savannah for me. I'll tear it down and do a bench build on it, then ship 'er back to Dad. I can put it back in when I come up in January. Sound like a plan?

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 8:44 pm

Probably about 60 lbs give or take a couple.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 2:02 am

Sounds like a plan to me Eric. If you want to ride it, it needs to be looked over.

DLDeere · Post by **DLDeere** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:14 pm

Eric,
I've got that same engine open right now and am putting in a new crankshaft and bearings, also rings, gaskets and seals. You'll probably have to pull the engine from the sled, just to make things easier. But you can replace the oil seals without opening up the engine. That will save a lot of time and work. The seals are pressed into an endplate on the PTO end and pressed into the flywheel housing on the flywheel end. Those endplates are then bolted to the block. You'll need the right push bolt set-up to pop the clutch off and a harmonic balancer puller to pull the flywheel, but the whole job should make for a fun afternoon.

I live in west central Minnesota at Detroit Lakes. You said this sled is in central Minnesota. Where at?

Howard

EricR · Post by **EricR** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:54 pm

The sled is in/near Grey Eagle- nearest exit off I-94 would be Sauk Center or Albany.

Wanna put seals in it for me?

Not sure it needs them, the seller said it needed them, but dad's got a guy, a local backyard small engine guy, that's "supposed" to come see if he can get it started, but he hasn't come by yet.

Thing is, I like working on stuff but I will have ONE DAY when I am up after deer season to mess with stuff, and I have to put drivers in my Ski Doo Oly that day as it is the one that is a for sure runner so I can ride it at Waconia. But I'd sure like to be able to ride the JD too!

JoeRainville · Post by **JoeRainville** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:48 pm

Hi Eric,

I was going to mention the same thing Howard did. I "think" you can pull both crank seals on a kohler w/o splitting the cases. I know you can on CCW/Kioritz motors, but the Kawi's are a pain as the have a retaining lip on them that is captured in a grove in the cases.

Generally, I recommend to all the guys here to replace the seals on any vintage sled that you actually intend to ride. I tore down my old 99 Cat Fan Cooled Sno Pro last year, and yup, even it needed seals. Guys here have purchased NOS motors and burned them down due to old, hardend, stretched out and dried seals.

Good luck, and I hope this helps,
-Joe Rainville

EricR · Post by **EricR** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:11 pm

That's the thing, Cruel Paul has offered to put aside his hatred of green JD's with offers of help, he says seals can be installed from the outside, but the local dad has spoken to says (insert thick Minnesotan accent) "Oh geeze, you gotta tear dat modor outta dere and tear dat hole dam ting down den to get at dem seals der, aint wort it"

I by far trust the wisdom of Rainville and CP over that!

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:57 am

If "it aint worth it" is his attitude I would not have him do the work.

I sent you a PM

DLDeere · Post by **DLDeere** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 10:38 am

Eric,
You asked if I'd put in the seals for you. I think I better see if I can get mine reassembled and working before running the risk of amateur mechanic on someone else's engine.

Howard

EricR · Post by **EricR** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:20 pm

Let us know how it turns out Holson!

I think I may have some help coming on this project of mine soon.

Post by **ICCSF 108** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 4:07 am

EricR wrote:but the local dad has spoken to says (insert thick Minnesotan accent) "Oh geeze, you gotta tear dat modor outta dere and tear dat hole dam ting down den to get at dem seals der, aint wort it"

I by far trust the wisdom of Rainville and CP over that!

Now being a transplant down here in Mo. from Minnysota. Is kind of going down town Kansas City & listening to the home boy jiv, so I'll translate for you, "Oh damn, you should really take that engine out of the chassis & then clean it up good, disassemble the damn thing & then get at them seals & replace them right or it isn't worth doing"..

Hell it sounded like the guy know what he was talking about to me...
I don't understand how you guys missed that?? :lol22:

Kenny