Polaris Indy Question

[427cobra]

Looks like I need some new Hyfax. Can I replace these without pulling the suspension out?? Doenst look like the track windows are wide enough to pull through. But I just took a quick look.

It is a 95 Indy XLT Touring. Just wondering what the easiest way to replace them will be.

Thanks!

[JDT]

My opinion is it is a good idea to drop the thing out.
It affords the opportunity to set it on the workbench or sawhorses or whatever and look it over real good.
One rarely does not find something that needs attention on a rear end.
Bearings , shafts, springs, limiters, bushings, missing bolts, cracks... something will be found.
Plus it is a lot easier to do the slides rather than laying on the floor.

[guitardude081]

Eric,
I do remember you having some suspension questions fairly recently. If you've had the suspension out in the recent past and haven't put too many miles on it, you don't necessarily have to remove it. If it's been awhile, I agree with Todd 100%. I pull my suspension once a year on my primary trail sled. Getting the hifax out through the windows depends on the track that you have. If it's the original Polaris track, they should fit. If it's a Camoplast replacement, you're going to have to pull the skid. The "L" shaped hifax do fit out the windows snugly but on those suspensions they usually come out and go on the rails really easily. I rarely use any hammers or chisels on the P136 hifax skids. I always loosen the track until the bolt ends on the adjusters are flush with the brackets. This makes manueverability easier.

Getting a skid in and out really shouldn't make you groan. If you tip the sled on it's side and install the front bolts first, it's pretty easy. Once the fronts are in, set the park brake (or if yours doesn't have the kit installed, have an assistant hold the brake) and put a pry bar through a track window to move the cross shaft into position. It takes a little getting used to move the rear of the skid with your knees and a pry bar. Once your holes are lined up, stick a bolt in and start tightening as fast as you can. The last bolt is always the easiest. It helps if you don't tighten them totally until all 4 bolts are in. A few pointers would be to loosen your front coil spring (if equipped) all the way and set your torsion springs on full soft or unhook them for the time being. Once you've done this 2 or 3 times you'll be a pro. Good luck and keep the rubber side down.
~Jack

[427cobra]

Yes I just re built the suspension this year. Probably about 500 mi on it. But I rode the sled in some marginal snow conditions here in IL and looks like it took its toll. I just noticed they looked a little thin when loading it on the trailer after riding in MI the last couple of days.

As far as I know its an original track. But I will take a closer look. If its original would POLARIS be printed on it somewhere?

Just turned over 3800 mi on the sled today. How many miles can I expect to get out of the sled? Seems to be running strong still. Will hit 80-90 mph no problem.

Thanks

[guitardude081]

Well, it is a '95 XLT. They were prone to PTO crank bearing failures. If you treat it right and use good oil, fog the engine well in the summer and don't do too many prolonged high RPM runs, it will be a good sled from anywhere between 8000 and 10,000 miles. I just turned my buddy's XLT over 7000 miles and that sled has been beaten hard since day 1. Some XLTs are good, some are bad.

Your track will have the little polaris starts on the lug tips. There will also be 1 spot where it will either say Polaris or Camoplast. If it's a Polaris track it will have a 7 character part number stamped on it. The part number will have no letters and will most likely start with 4 or 5. Camoplast makes Polaris' tracks so it may have a camoplast logo on it as well as Polaris.

The "L" hifax are deceiving. Check them from the inside of the rail. They lip up on the outside so they may look taller from the outside. When you cut down your new ones remember that there is a right and left hifax on that skidframe.
~Jack

[427cobra]

Thanks Jack.

I am thinking about upgrading sleds after this year. I looked at the hyfax again and looks like I installed them wrong. I have the lip towards the inside.
So I will have to address that. But there may be more life left in them then I thought. However looks like I will have to pull the suspension to switch the hyfax.

[Matt]

When I had my XLT, someone told me if they lasted past 3K miles, they would go to 10K. I ran in to quite a few high-mileage ones on the trail.

[guitardude081]

Eric,
I'd keep the XLT in the stable as a backup. I've literally heard 10s of thousands of triples make high rpm runs. That sound still makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. I'd look into the Polaris Edge chassis. You can pick up an '01 for under $2000 right now, and by the time you're ready to pull the trigger this summer or fall, you'll probably be able to get an '02 or '03 that cheap as well. I'd buy a 700. They chug the gas but they haul......mail.
Steer clear of the carbureted 800 twins. They were prone to PTO crank bearing failure as well...and a 700 is just as fast if not faster depending on the year.
~Jack

[427cobra]

Thanks Jack.

I would keep it but storage space is an issue..
Would you recommend any of the Arctic Cat sleds? I probably wont get anything until the summer...so I have some time to search for the right one.

I would really like reverse on the sled along with EFI. What are your thoughts on EFI sleds?

Eric

[S_Kyle]

Have you considered a Yami. I have ridden many of the SXR, SRX and the Mountain Max's. Those motors are very stout and the price is coming way down now. The only issue I've herd of on them is the 98 cranks had a few issues that were covered under warranty. That and the 700 SRX's move, I've talked to a few guys the have them set up for drags. It takes alot to catch them.

Just a thought
Scott