Well, I see two different recommendations for gas to oil ratio in the book I have. Cuyuna says 40:1, and Ski Whiz says 20:1. I would go with the 20:1 and both recommend premium gas.

I have the exact same machine/engine. It has always been hard to pull the starter rope. I think it just has good compression. It runs great/fast

I have not had the same problems this year because we have less snow, they are getting it all back east. Also I did partially block off the headlight opening, with no over heating problems.

May go look at this machine, the price is right. All I have is a picture, it is a long track, two up machine with leaf spring front suspension. Not sure of the motor or exact year. Anyone ever had one of these machine? good, bad, indifferent. Thanks

I have a 66 Johnson and it is different from what you have. I think it is an independent manufacturer.

I got it working, don't ask me how. I replaced all the fuel and pulse lines, and pump diaphram and it still would not pump fuel by pulling the starter rope. Took the "out" line off the pump and used it to fill the carb bowl. Started it up and let it run, reconnected the fuel line to the pu...

Yea, it bounce back and forth. So it must be the pump, the diaphram looks ok to me, but maybe it is bad, any other posibilities?

Working on a 1980 Trailfire 440, having trouble getting it to pump fuel. Does anyone know what the pressure/vacuum pressure out of the crankcase line should be? I have a gauge and it is reading about +/- 5psi. That does not seem enough to me.

I grew up with Arctic Cats from the early 70's, that is where my memories are, especially the Panthers. They are easy to find and cheap, and often over looked because they are so common. Even to this day they are often not considered classics, but utilitarian machines. Well built, rock solid, always...

Arctic Cat Spirit (Suzuki) engine, fan cooled. I notice Dennis Kirk offers regular and chrome rings. What would be the purpose for the chrome?

Ok with a little research I will answer my own question. According to Rotax and the gauge manufacturer, an axle fan two-cycle, such as a 503, should have a cylinder head temp (CHT) of 350-375F. Anything in excess of 400-425F is "Hot". So the gauge I have showing 450F as "red line"...

This is the twpe where a washer sits under a spark plug and a connected wire goes to a gauge. It was on a free air two-cycle.

I have a heat gauge off an early 80's ultralight with a free air engine. This gauge shows the beginning of red line hot as 450 deg F. Does that sound right?

Thanks. I thought it looked like a lighter color than the newer models. I will just have it scanned and computer matched.

Got the carb on ebay. Thanks for all the help (see post below this). Now can anyone steer me in the right direction for the right color of green? I saw the listing for paint codes on FAQ but cannot tell if it is one of these. Thanks.