I Give Up!!!! Liquifire Problems

[Mr. Deere]

Alright I have another update for you guys. Re wound the recoil from the other day and decided to give her another go. Bought a new coil from Matt and installed it. Made a few laps around the yard then it started running like Crap and would only rev to 4K. Popped hood and found my problem. I forgot to tie up the dam leads. Melted one right to the Y-Pipe. I wasn't too happy about that but hey It happens right? So now I rip my other coil apart and trim it and screw my new ends on. Problem #1 Solved. Now when I figured id move the jet needle back up to the second spot to see maybe if this would help my bog. Also bought a new filter and some tygon so I ran new line from the tank to the pump and Used spring clamps the whole way. Now I started to pull and pull and guess what? Broke the dam rope again. So i ripped the recoil off and decided to give it a shot with the Emergency rope. Somehow I got it running on the first pull! No Ether Either! I was left scratching my head a bit. I did have the throttle cracked a bit when i pulled it over. Now I jumped on er and set off ripping around the yard. She was running mint! Little boggy but she goes when the PJ takes over! I was happy and was having fun. I came to a stop and figured id see if shed idle. She was right around 3800. I decided to hold open the oiler and let it bleed. I did that for a few minuets and did notice a drop in my tank as well as the blue smoke. never bogged down once and ran great. I did notice tho that my carb lines had a bunch of air in them. I could see fuel splashing around and tons of air bubbles in the lines and both filters. The lines weren't staying full either. The top of the bend was always air bound. I jumped back on and ripped it around some more to clear out the oil. It was pretty boggy but it did get better once it stopped smoking. I got it up around 200 or so and then parked it and figited with the idle to see if I could bring it down a bit. It seemed once it got around 3 grand it would slowly drop to the point were it wanted to stall. I had it back up around 3500 or so and it ran great. I hit the choke and it would drop then run itself back to 3500. It hit 210 so i shut it down. Went to pull it and it half ran and died when I tried to give it gas. After that it acted like it was flooded. I gave up since I didn't have the recoil. I pulled plugs and they were brownish. They were new today. I know its not running lean and I know its not an ignition issue. If my stator was junk it would die while I was Running right? I mean it was up over 200 degrees. I have just about solved all of my problems except the warm restart issue. Eric I believe the clutch has the purple Spring in it. I bought it from a member on here I think? I was going to maybe try Jacks suggestion of changing the setup to eliminate the bog. Jetting I am unsure of. Also I was wondering if Maybe the Impulse is somehow leaking into my fuel and aerating it? Its just weird that once you get it running it runs mint. I do see some cracking in the Poly line going to my carbs. Dont think they are leaking tho. I plan on putting new tygon on there as well.

[Danzig]

1. Check the fuel pick up line in the tank for cracks, and plugged screen filter and make sure its there and routed down to the bottom of the tank.
1a. Remove gas tank and power wash it out at local car wash
2. Put the needle back to the middle notch
3. You will see air in the fuel lines all the time and you will see the fuel filters half full all the time also unless they are dirty and then you will see a full filter.
4. Put a new rope on the recoil
5. Dont worry about Aaen pipes
6. Clean pilot jets again and all other jets in the carb
6a. #30 pilots jets work best in my opinion
7. make sure that choke plungers are bottoming out
8. You cannot feel the power jets kick in...its not a 4 barrel holley carb
9. Better have that air box on it
10. Fuel lines better have zip ties on them
11. Carb flanges better not be torn or warped allowing air to seep in behind them
12. clean carbs again.
13. Stators can go bad just with the sled sitting in the shed or while running or when ever
14. Thermostat is set for 108 degrees, then engine temp hits 108 opens thermostat allows water to flow into radiator from hot engine, radiator cools engine get hot again and the process repeats.
15. If you used starting fluid I bet you just scuffed the crap out of the cylinders and you just smoked the engine, better check compression.
16. Get a running sled from someone who has it setup and quit playing with it !

[Mr. Deere]

HAHAHAHA. Tank is Clean. Pickup is new Ball type. Line is not cracked. Chokes are set up Right. I do have the airbox but I don't have the rubber seals that clamp around the carbs. Will this effect the running? So I need to remove all my Spring clamps and ZipTie all the lines? I dont have a Thermostat. Kenny Took it out. Try to avoid using Starting Fluid.

[JDT]

Power-Jet Carbs without the airbox?

Bob, Bob, Bob.

[Mr. Deere]

Todd Airbox is on I just dont have the rubber seals with the hose clamps around them.

[JDT]

So it is not really drawing air through the air box than correct?

It needs to have the negitive pressure on the carb input to make the PowerJets curciut work correctly.

[Mr. Deere]

No It is the carbs sit probably 1/4 in in the box. Just doesn't have these on it. http://newbreedparts.com/index.php?rout ... duct_id=52 Also Would that make it not start?

[427cobra]

There are no rubber adapters between the carbs and air box. Just slide the carbs inside the air box and use hose clamp around the plastic flange.

Those rubber adapters are for the spark arrestor tube. You just need one. Then you should have the U shaped air inlet tube that installs on the spark arrestor tube.

You REALLY need to see what jets you have installed. You running 83' jetting for the HSR or jetting for the the 80-81 models...??

If you dont get ALL these things figured out...it will never run the way it should.

[JDT]

Start at number one on Paul's list and work your way down.

Follow it to the T.

[427cobra]

A tip for rebuilding the recoil...


Use about 7' of rope if you can. Remember when you route the rope up to the pull start that takes a couple feet. The more rope you can fit on it the better. That way you dont bottom it out everytime you pull the cord. Make sure you get a good recoil rope too...the largest diameter at your local lawnmower shop should work just fine.

[Mr. Deere]

Eric I will pull them apart this weekend and get a jet list. Also Todd most of the things Paul posted I have done and checked. Eric I am going to get some good Rope so I stop breaking them. Gotta get this thing Licked!

[lwb140]

what pilots does ithave in it ? when you adjust the idle air jets what happens ? can you screw them clear in and there be no change in the idle ? i wander if your pilots are too small and you borderline have to have it flooded to get it to starts , should idle much slower than 3500 , sounds like its not even running on the idle circuits at all to me wade

[Mr. Deere]

Well I have an update!! I re wound the recoil and got that mess straightened out. While it was off I decided to give the flywheel one more go! It popped off after some Pounding with a big hammer. Swapped my Stator and flywheel out for my HSR ones. Hooked it all up and it started kinda hard but I think that was due to all the oil in the cases from when I Bled the pump. Ran it up and it sat at 3000K nicely. It'll idle there all day if you let it. It sounds a lot smoother and quieter also. The lower end Bog seemed to get worse too. I ran it to 160 and shut her off. Did a Compression check and had 120 to 125 in both Jugs. I dont know if having the motor hot would have affected the readings. Seems a little low but not horrible. Went to restart it and it ran at about 1500 and died upon throttle. Few more pulls with the throttle open and I could get it to catch if I futzed with the choke. It was way better tho. Spark even looked a lot better. MAG plug was a little whiter then the PTO plug. I pulled the carbs of too but haven't had a chance to open them up yet. I talked to Kenny and he suggested to try running Straight Gas through to see if that helped. Maybe there's too much oil in the system? I did notice the Y-Pipe was dry this time when I had the Exhaust off. There was like A greenish Brownish soot almost in the pipe tho. I will have to get the carbs pulled apart to check jetting. I did notice what looked to be some old gas come out of one of the vent lines. Maybe I still had some crap in one of them. Also I noticed a black Sludge on the airbox and around the carb faces were they sit in the airbox. Felt like oil. I can tell you that I have 3.5 Slides and 6DH22 Needles and I believe Vitton tipped 1.5 Needle and seats. Id have to confirm that.

[Danzig]

If you have fuel in the vent line I would look into a leaking needle and seat causing the bowl to over flow. In my opinion viton tipped needles are not good, they dont seal very well, a remedy is to get a wooden golf T and stick the T into the seat and work it back in forth where the needle seats, this burnishes the sealing surface and will get you a better seal.

The idle with the HSR ignition can be turned back down to 1200-1500 rpms.

The bog is probably rich fuel problem, secondary clutch not shimmed correctly, bad belt or a sticking primary clutch.

Setting up the carbs is another issue, get everything corrected and running, then adjust the fuel/air mix on the carbs and what you need to do is listen and try to get the highest idle, this shouldnt take more than 3/4 turn on each screw, once the highest idle is found then adjust the idle screws equally on both carbs to get 12-1500 rpms. Carbs need to be synch'd pefectly and chokes need to be bottomed out in the chambers, a slight air leak in the choke chamber will cause lots of problems.

You can say you did this and did that...did you do it correctly ? Dont spend all winter wrenching on sleds in the cold, do it in the summer and ride in the winter.

[Mr. Deere]

Paul I should of mentioned I tipped the carbs Upside down and drained the fuel out. No fuel comming out when she runs. I am leaning towards the Rich condition. It bogs even before the Primary gets to engagement RPM. I do have to re shim secondary too.