Hi again.
Well, I've completely stripped a 79 Spit, having finally removed the skis and the track.
I was goin to use the track on my 83 Sprint b/c that track has about 10 broken cleats. Now, what would be easier... to replace the cleats on the SPrint or change out the track. I must say that (IMO) it was a fair amount of work jus to get the track off the 79 Spit.
Thoughts??? what is easier???
Thanks again.
Dan
TO cleat or not to cleat
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guitardude081
- Posts: 990
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: Jack Durand
- Location: Brainerd, MN
TO cleat or not to cleat
I think the Sprint track will be a bit longer.
Owner, Durand Motorsports
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
TO cleat or not to cleat
Thanks. I take it to mean that you think it would be longer to change out the track than to replace 10 cleats.
Anyone else????
(also, I realize I put this post in the wrong section...yikes). can I move it or only the Adminstrator?) Shuld be it the "general" forum.
Dan
Anyone else????
(also, I realize I put this post in the wrong section...yikes). can I move it or only the Adminstrator?) Shuld be it the "general" forum.
Dan
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Horicon Joe
- Posts: 1091
- Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: Joe Wanie
- Location: ROLLING PRAIRIE WI
TO cleat or not to cleat
Dan ....
Remember ..... if the bar is broken in the center and still attached to the belt, it need not be replaced .......... They are designed to break there ..........
Good luck ........ Joe
Remember ..... if the bar is broken in the center and still attached to the belt, it need not be replaced .......... They are designed to break there ..........
Good luck ........ Joe
Please add your Real Name in your User Profile or at least your first Name!
TO cleat or not to cleat
Joe... what do you mean???
They are broken where they ride over the slides (and where the drive sproket engages the track. Are you referring to the very middle of the track??? Yes the cleats seems to be 2 piece (each one measuring about 7 1/4 inch) and not physically connected in the middle.
The ones at DK are full length. My plan was to get some of these and cut them to replace only the side of the track I needed. There are 12 broken cleats, so I was going to get 6 full length cleats and cut them.
I thought this would be easier than slipping on an "average" track that I just pulled from a 79 SPit.
hmmm...
They are broken where they ride over the slides (and where the drive sproket engages the track. Are you referring to the very middle of the track??? Yes the cleats seems to be 2 piece (each one measuring about 7 1/4 inch) and not physically connected in the middle.
The ones at DK are full length. My plan was to get some of these and cut them to replace only the side of the track I needed. There are 12 broken cleats, so I was going to get 6 full length cleats and cut them.
I thought this would be easier than slipping on an "average" track that I just pulled from a 79 SPit.
hmmm...
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400brian
- Posts: 5894
- Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: James T. Kirk
- Location: South Central Wisconsin
TO cleat or not to cleat
Central Snowmobile lists cleats in the following lengths: 14 1/2, 10 5/16, and 13 3/4
The 10 5/16 is listed as the replacement for the 2/3 cleat tracks. $2.95
The 10 5/16 is listed as the replacement for the 2/3 cleat tracks. $2.95
'09 Vintage Challenge Survivor, and I wasn't late for supper!
'10, '11, '12, '13,'14,'15,'16,'17, '18, 19, 20, 21, 22 Vintage Challenge Survivor !
72 400 restored, Father bought new in '71
73 X8 restored
'74 340 green machine
'74 X8 9 time VC finisher
'78 Spitfire in progress
2 '75 340S 1 running, one on deck
'78 LF 440 future CC clone
'73 Skiroule RTX 440, 500 mi.
TO cleat or not to cleat
Its been a while since this topic. Thanks for the referral of Central Snowmobile. I have a dozen cleats from Central and a bag of 100 rivets. Now, does anybody have any suggestios for removing the old broken cleats (broken where it rides over the slides). Grinding or drilling??? Also.. the track is still on the sled (if that makes a difference).
Lastly, the cleats that I got are one piece (full lentgth, 14.5 inches). Joe, you had stated that the cleats are designed to break in the center. I am not sure that these replacements are so designed. Should I be concerned? Should I cut them and install them each as 2 seperate pieces?
Thanks
Dan
(BTW...still need a trottle block for this sled... 83 Sprintfire if anyone has one).
Dan
Lastly, the cleats that I got are one piece (full lentgth, 14.5 inches). Joe, you had stated that the cleats are designed to break in the center. I am not sure that these replacements are so designed. Should I be concerned? Should I cut them and install them each as 2 seperate pieces?
Thanks
Dan
(BTW...still need a trottle block for this sled... 83 Sprintfire if anyone has one).
Dan
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JoeRainville
- Posts: 4362
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: "John Deere Joe"
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
- Contact:
TO cleat or not to cleat
Hi Dan,
The factory cleates had a relief in the middle so they would break if you hit a rock or some other obstruction. But, most of them just cracked all the way during normal use. I don't care for that idea since the center track belt has no other support, but it was supposed to save the track from bent and ripped off cleats.
The aftermarket cleats are solid once piece. It will not matter if you only replace one or more with the aftermarket units. I would not cut the aftermarket cleat, nor would I only install half of one as you first suggested.
As for removal, I use a body grinder to grind the rivit tips flush sticking through the cleat flush with it, and then drive the rivit body in with a punch and hammer. If the track is off the sled, I have found a large, self centering drill bit on the inside of the track to be best at removing the large rivit head.
As for the throttle block, check with DK-Trader on Evil-Bay. They have had a few different throttle blocks this year.
Good Luck with your sled,
-Joe Rainville
"Tech-Ed"
The factory cleates had a relief in the middle so they would break if you hit a rock or some other obstruction. But, most of them just cracked all the way during normal use. I don't care for that idea since the center track belt has no other support, but it was supposed to save the track from bent and ripped off cleats.
The aftermarket cleats are solid once piece. It will not matter if you only replace one or more with the aftermarket units. I would not cut the aftermarket cleat, nor would I only install half of one as you first suggested.
As for removal, I use a body grinder to grind the rivit tips flush sticking through the cleat flush with it, and then drive the rivit body in with a punch and hammer. If the track is off the sled, I have found a large, self centering drill bit on the inside of the track to be best at removing the large rivit head.
As for the throttle block, check with DK-Trader on Evil-Bay. They have had a few different throttle blocks this year.
Good Luck with your sled,
-Joe Rainville
"Tech-Ed"
Honorary Tech Editor
Chuck Norris doesn't get frost bite. He bites the frost.
Chuck Norris doesn't get frost bite. He bites the frost.
TO cleat or not to cleat
Thanks again JOe. Just to build on what your saying.
I have found a reasonably good method of removing the cleats. With a good high quality drill bit, I drill a small hole in the center of the rivet head. THe I use a larger bit to remove the rivet head and then puch it thru (as you said) with a hammer. I found the grinder was generating a lot of heat (more so than the drill method). I got off all the broken cleats (about 12 of them). To be clear, I should say 12 "halfs" as usually the cleat was broken on only one side. This is in part the reason I was thinking of cutting a full length aftermarket cleat, so as to avoid having to remove what appears to be a good cleat on the other half. Hmmmm
Also, the "break" you are referring to... this seams much more than a random break that might have occurred thru riding. The two pieces, where they come together actually have complimentary "tabs" so I am thinking that when installed, they used a 7.25 inch cleat per side. Anyway... I need about 12 or so of these "halves".
I am hoping for good luck tomorrow as I will be right down the street from a JD dealer that has been in existence for about 30 years. THe guy there is stringing me along (apparently he has a whole box of cleats in his "warehouse" but never has gotten around to geting them for me to look at). Ughhhh. My priority is not his.
I am hoping that putting the cleats on is easy, as the track is otherwise in real good shape. I think the large number of broken cleats was the result of a track that was tightened way too much.
BTW there is a small amount of fraying (threads) should I trim these? Another thought I had was running a torch quickly down the edge to "seal" it...mcuh like when working with nylon rope. bad idea??
I have found a reasonably good method of removing the cleats. With a good high quality drill bit, I drill a small hole in the center of the rivet head. THe I use a larger bit to remove the rivet head and then puch it thru (as you said) with a hammer. I found the grinder was generating a lot of heat (more so than the drill method). I got off all the broken cleats (about 12 of them). To be clear, I should say 12 "halfs" as usually the cleat was broken on only one side. This is in part the reason I was thinking of cutting a full length aftermarket cleat, so as to avoid having to remove what appears to be a good cleat on the other half. Hmmmm
Also, the "break" you are referring to... this seams much more than a random break that might have occurred thru riding. The two pieces, where they come together actually have complimentary "tabs" so I am thinking that when installed, they used a 7.25 inch cleat per side. Anyway... I need about 12 or so of these "halves".
I am hoping for good luck tomorrow as I will be right down the street from a JD dealer that has been in existence for about 30 years. THe guy there is stringing me along (apparently he has a whole box of cleats in his "warehouse" but never has gotten around to geting them for me to look at). Ughhhh. My priority is not his.
I am hoping that putting the cleats on is easy, as the track is otherwise in real good shape. I think the large number of broken cleats was the result of a track that was tightened way too much.
BTW there is a small amount of fraying (threads) should I trim these? Another thought I had was running a torch quickly down the edge to "seal" it...mcuh like when working with nylon rope. bad idea??
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JoeRainville
- Posts: 4362
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: "John Deere Joe"
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
- Contact:
TO cleat or not to cleat
Hi Dan,
The break in all your cleats is a designed in fracture point from the factory. The cleat came new in one piece, but had notches cut in them so they all 'cracked' in the same place. That is why they all look to be broken in the same spot.
I do not recomend replacing only half the cleat. If one end is shot, the other can't be far from it. And, I like the fact that the aftermarket cleats do not have the relief cuts in them. It gives better support to the center track belt.
As for the frayed edge of the track, yes, cleaning them off with a propane torch is a good idea. Just don't over do it and burn the rubber.
Good Luck with your sled,
-Joe Rainville
"Tech-Ed"
The break in all your cleats is a designed in fracture point from the factory. The cleat came new in one piece, but had notches cut in them so they all 'cracked' in the same place. That is why they all look to be broken in the same spot.
I do not recomend replacing only half the cleat. If one end is shot, the other can't be far from it. And, I like the fact that the aftermarket cleats do not have the relief cuts in them. It gives better support to the center track belt.
As for the frayed edge of the track, yes, cleaning them off with a propane torch is a good idea. Just don't over do it and burn the rubber.
Good Luck with your sled,
-Joe Rainville
"Tech-Ed"
Honorary Tech Editor
Chuck Norris doesn't get frost bite. He bites the frost.
Chuck Norris doesn't get frost bite. He bites the frost.