$16 Temp Guage for the ole Liquifire

[JDT]

Being as a bulb(lamp) is a passive device it doesn't know the differece between AC or DC.

Thermocouples vary the resistance due to the dissimilar metals. This variation is sent to an opamp that actually drives the coil in the movment.
As an opamp is an active device input voltage type can make a difference unless it is built to be non polarity specific.

If a typical 12 VDC automotive type gauge is feed AC one of two things are going to happen.
It will either not work or the lens will get all clouded up with smoke. As in it is now toast.

RTU's and RTD's are temp sensors that respond to actual voltage changes.

The original temp gauge in these sleds was a mechanical gauge that used an inert gas in a capillary tube.
As the temp at the bulb end rises the gas expands and the pressure inside increases.
This higher pressure causes a diapharm in the gauge to push on the movement and move the needle upscale.

The only reason for wires on OEM gauges was to power the backlight lamp.

[motoXman]

OK JDT, now your going to make me go read the instructions.... I dont do that

[motoXman]

It says no sales is final until Im satisified.. I guess Im going to be happy either way with this guage lol.

Its a universal automotive electric temp guage, 100-250F , 2 in diameter, and voltage rating 12V. Its a Universal, non bias unit doesnt say AC or DC anywhere.

Dammit its DC. It still works

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product ... Temp-Gauge

[ljm]

Start the sled and let it run till the gauge moves or clouds up.


all you would be out is $16 for the gauge0

[motoXman]

The gauge works I tried it. I will just get a DC converter box then if I have to. I will try my best to smoke this one first.

[harleysportster]

Looks good! The bulb that lights its would be the only part that would be affected by the difference between the voltages. If it hasn't blown, you are probably fine. The gauge itself does not take power to run it. It is based on a thermocouple. Two dissimilar metal wires are joined and create a voltage difference that causes the needle to move.

I looked at the installation manual and found this...

3. Feed 18-gauge twin conductor wire through firewall using grommet (both
sold separately). Connect one end to terminal post on temperature sender,
and opposite end to sender terminal (S) on the back of the gauge (#1).

4. Connect wire from centre terminal (-) on the back of the gauge to engine
ground near sender.
5. Connect wire from ignition switch to ignition terminal (+) on the back of the
gauge.
6. Install light bulb (#12) in back of temperature gauge and connect wire to the
dash lighting circuit.
7. Reconnect negative (-) battery cable.
I don't think it will work but let us know...

[motoXman]

IDK. I started my sled, warmed it up, watched the gauge go to 110, then grabbed my MAC Tools Temp gun, checked the thermostate housing and verified it was correct. Ive tried it 2 times. Having said that, I bet if I dont get the AC/DC converter (which I will anyways) it will burn out eventually. I want to stay electric temp gauge even if this one doenst work out.. The sender will still be good. Lots of really nice electric gauges on the market for cheap. Theres a JD RANGE style electric on Ebay for $24 and I can use this sender

[PolCat]

If you had e-start it would work

[ihengineer76]

[quote="JDT"]
Thermocouples vary the resistance due to the dissimilar metals. This variation is sent to an opamp that actually drives the coil in the movment.
As an opamp is an active device input voltage type can make a difference unless it is built to be non polarity specific.

A thermocouple produces a voltage when the metals are above absolute zero and have almost zero resistance. The amount of voltage changes with the temperature. This voltage can then be used to determine the temp with a table. There are four common types of thermocouples (E, J, K, and N) used for different temp ranges and applications. I have had to make and implement these many times. It is a common misconception that the resistance is varied with a thermocouple.

[motoXman]

So ^^^^^ is it going to burn out?

[ihengineer76]

Well, run it for a while and if it burns out, then go from there. If it doesn't, then no problem.

And JDT, I am not saying that there are not temp gauges that run off variable resistance, just not a thermocouple.

[400brian]

I like toast !

[ljm]

The Ski-Doo Liquid cooled sleds from the late 70's and early 80"s use electric temp. gauges.

Would a sender from one of them work with an aftermarket gauge ?

[PolCat]

Mine was replaced with a SunPro and it doesn't work either. Maybe one of these

[Dator76]

The thermostat on 1st gen. liquifires opens at 165 F and 210 F is too hot. I would expect 2nd gen. to be similar. This I learned by running a dator without a tunnel cooler and with that cooler they would run 165. (dator & liquifire use same thermostat) I think my aftermarket guage came from autozone. It used the lower temp range compatable with a sled. The sled I put it in has been sold or i would post a pic.