295s

[Kurts]

Can someone with a good running 295 post video of it. I'd just like to see how it idles, responds, takes off, compared to mine. Mine has always seemed really really lazy on the bottom.

Where are your guys clutches engaging? Mine is at about 4600, and it has a bit of a bog

Mine http://youtu.be/_gIl40qaYiw

[ICCSF 108]

Bring the Idle up to 4400 then you should get rid of the bog.. the way it is now ( idle down low ) it smokes way too much.. are your carbs adjusted right? Right main jets, pilots, needle valves, jet needles, C-clips where there suppose to be, air jet screw turned out the proper amount of times????? Plenty of clearance in the choke cables, both throttle valves synchronized??? Exhaust system not plugged by mouse nest? etc. etc. etc.
Are the proper weights & spring in the drive clutch? right belt & in newish condition?
I assume the carbs are clean, fresh this year?
Grumpy

[Kurts]

Kenny, errr Mr. Dick Head, Errrr Grumpy,

I'm assuming mine is way off then. Did you watch the video? What you don't see is that when the clutch hits, it falls on it's face then takes off pretty good. This is my hybrid motor I put together. It's a 340/5 with 295rs/s esqe porting specs. The jetting it mostly stock with a bit larger mains. The idle speed screws are all the way in, so this is the highest it will idle. Clutches are stock, in good condition, belt is marginal, but I got one coming. I suspect partly my choke plungers may be failed, possibly late ignition timing, couple others.

I've never seen a good running 295 so I am not how it is supposed to be. I know they are a racy high rpm engine, so I figured they'd be garbage at low rpm. Keep in mind this isn't a factory stock engine so I wanted to make sure I'm not spending a bunch of time or parts trying to get it better, when it's not possible. I'm looking for an example of what I'm shooting for.

Thanks for the help

[ICCSF 108]

Kurts, 2 things I noted was one, tach way down around 2000-3000 idle I like to see a 2- stroke idle about 200 under clutch engagement, Keeps them crisp & they don't bog then..
2nd thing I noted was a lot of smoke, which I take as Idle too low & to much fuel on the low end.
Now being you said what you have for an engine & done to it, I really don't know where to tell you to start, port timing MIGHT be off, for the 295/S pipe?? Timing off is possible?
BUT, First thing I would do is wait until the temp drops to 30 deg, then take a whole day to just work on the carbs, first order NEW choke plungers then adjust the cable If that is what your using?? so you have lots of free travel so the fuel isn't leaking by through the choke enrichener circuit..
Then find out why you have the Idle screws screwed all the way in & you still can't get a higher than 2000-3000 RPM ( maybe the engine is TOO RICH & that is why it won't Idle up??? Badly soaked spark plugs, wrong heat range plugs??
MAKE sure you have the throttle cables set so that the throttle valves both start to rise at the same instant when you just barely touch the throttle lever, This is a must..

once you get this all cked let me know & we'll go from there if need be..

Grumpy

[Matt]

Are you using the 295/s pipe? It doesn't sound like it. What about the CDI, I don't see one on the head shield.

[Kurts]

Kenny,
I got some plungers and a belt ordered today. I'll play with it more When I get home from school for xmas. I suspect it is just super rich and lazy igniton timing. The motor is basically just a 340/5 with dual carbs and the 295 pipe. So it shouldn't be any worse then a jdx4. This has points ignition and I'm running B9ES plugs. What heat range would you recommend?

Matt,
It does have the 295 pipe and can, as well as the carbs, and airbox.

I have a dyno at home now, so I suspect the engine is coming out and going on the pump to see what it's doing.

[ICCSF 108]

This opens up a whole new can of worms.. way too many changes at one time & way too many different parts used... Without making some of the changes work first.. Jetting, carbs, timing, points, 295/S pipe??????? WOW

Grumpy

[Matt]

The points might be an issue. Back in the day the had to update the JDX8/800 to the CDI because it wasn't getting good enough spark to run right with that pipe.
You're just going to have to do your own tuning, since it's a custom setup.

[HoosierDeereMan]

WOW is right Kenny! This will be a lot of trial and error. Matt makes a valid point about the CDI ignition. The CDI ignition would create a hotter spark to help burn all the fuel mixture. They created enough that these engines used surface gap spark plugs. Also keep in mind that the tuned pipe is designed for the 295/RS-2 cc engine not a 340 cc engine. The exhaust volume and exhaust wave will be totally different. In this instance the tuned pipe may be hurting you by restricting the wave/flow the 340 cc cylinders are putting out. I'm thinking out loud here so bear with me. You said this is basically a 340/5 with 295 carburetors????? I would use 340/5 ignition timing specs. If the carbs are jetted 295/S stock you might try changing the pilot jets. I'm thinking the 295/S calls for 40 pilot jets (idle circuit). It's been my experience that 40's are too rich. Seems like I always wind up 2+ rounds out on the air screws with 40's which is too far. If memory serves 3/4 to 1-1/4 turns out on the air screws is where you should be. Maybe 35's or even 30's pilots. If you are rich at idle when you blip the throttle they stumble all over themselves because the engine can't take all the the fuel from the pilot jet and the needle jet during the transition from idle to 1/2 throttle. With what you have here the best advice I can offer is to try one thing at a time and see if it helps or hinders your progress. Good luck!

Troy

[lwb140]

in my 340/s I rode the vc on last year it has 440/5 jugs and heads on it ,otherwise it is a stock 340/s set-up , carbs ,pipe etc . sitting here I cant remember what jets it has in it but they are significantly SMALLER than stock 340/s . I assume its because the more conservative port timing offers a stronger signal to the carbs , not sure, not an expert on 2 cycle engines, don't claim to be or even want to be . but it took considerable tuning on 2 different trips north to get it where it could be ridden with any confidence it would rev up and pull away from a stop sign without fouling plugs , troy and Kenny are both on the money , choke plungers and needles and seats ,than start taking fuel away , im guessing both pilots and mains are too big , but take small steps as to avoid burning it down , one of the deere tuning manuals lays out very well how to choose pilot jets . as troy mentioned you need to have the correct jet to keep the air screw out about 1 turn or so I think the book says .too far in or too far out and the jet is the wrong size . oh ya , im proud of you for using the 340/5 motor , it looks basicly stock and will function great with some tuning im sure , a great motor to keep that ole gal on the snow wade

[Kurts]

You're just going to have to do your own tuning, since it's a custom setup.

I understand that. That is why I wasn't asking for tuning advice, I was asking for an example so I knew what to shoot for.

[lwb140]

oops , sorry I guess us guys missed them mark on this one , wade

[Kurts]

Just got it back out. Havn't changed a thing. http://youtu.be/lE6btTTgsOQ

[HoosierDeereMan]

Sounds crisp and it looks like judging by the head light it pulls the skis. I'd say if you aren't there you are very, very close. How much of a temperature difference was there between your 1st video and this one?

Troy