I have a question about what I should do with my primary clutching in my liquifire project.
I have two clutches for this that are both in need of major rebuilding. The first one I have Is the TR-800 and the second one I have is the 102-C.
The TR-800 needs all new rollers and the little arms the rollers go in. It also needs the little buttons that go on the spider.
The 102-C needs new rollers and the little buttons on the spider as well.
What are my options for both of these? Any advice on this is appreciated as I would like to get this back together over my break from school.
I would consider a different clutch but I don't have a bunch of money to put into a new setup.
Thanks
Clay
Clay Gerfen
My Sleds
1 1980 Trailfire 340 = Less than five hundred orginal miles
1 1980 Trailfire 440 = My Test Dummy
1 1980 Liquifire = Future race sled
1 1978 Spitfire
1 1979 Spitfire
The 102c should be a fairly easy rebuild provided nothing is cracked or broken. Renew rollers, buttons, weight bushings and replace the bolts.
Make sure you're running 1.77 or 1.86 gears (22/39 or 21/39 with a 68 link chain) in your chain case and you'll be good to go with little money spent. You'll sacrifice a bit of top end but unless you're running down a lake every day, you aren't likely to be squeezing 80+ out of a leafer like the Liquifire (1.86 gears give you 88mph at 8000rpm). On a rough hay field, 65mph is pretty exciting with stock suspension.
Remember that almost everyone who says their vintage sled runs 100+mph is lying. The guys who really run that fast tend to spend their time tuning and riding, not bragging.
When you finish school you can look into getting a 108EXP or similar. This'll allow you to gear for better acceleration without losing top end.
The TR800 was a good clutch but the 108 series Comet is effectively the same thing and is easy to find, fix and maintain.
Stew
'80 440 Liquifire
'72 292SS Elan
'74 294SS Elan
'73 Evinrude QF (for sale if someone wants one)
IF you would run the TR800 you need to have the correct belt spacing, I not sure what was on your sled had originally when you got it but make sure that the driven is spaced correctly for the front clutch & Belt you are using. 1-1/4" or 1-3/8" wide..
Also make sure that you have the newer updated 102C, ( 3 - allen headed bolts on the weights, Grade 5 Long 1/4" bolts holding the front cover on, not the short self tapping ones used on the older 102C's )
Make sure that you ck the bushing on the 102C movable sheave for excessive play, ( I've never had any luck replacing these bushings, for some reason when I did that they always seemed looser that the one I replaced, I found it easier to always just replace the whole moveable sheave )..
Also ck both sheaves for belt wear on the bottom of each sheave from excessive Idle, IF grooved this can weaken one or both sheaves.
Personally if you have to spend too much on rebuild parts on a 102C you might be better off looking on ebay or else where for a 108EXP right away??
Just my $.0875 worth
Grumpy
AKA: Kenny, Grumpy, Mr. Richard Head
"I Hunt For it, Purchase it, Haul it, Sometimes Repair it, Sometimes Break it, Then Fix it Again, Label it, Warehouse it, Talk About it, So NOW, HOW Can I Take Any Less $$ For It?"
"God I love the smell of KLOTZ in the morning, That smell, you know that Gasoline/Oil Smell, MAKES the whole place SMELL like.. LIKE VICTORY. You know someday the 2 strokers are gonna end..."
Do Anti-War Protesters have reunions? If so what do they TALK about?
Every time I've been down this road with a clutch, the sum of the new parts required meets or exceeds the cost of a complete replacement. Kenny is right, see if you can find one to at least get by until you can afford a new EXP.
