Ring Gear Hub removal Update

[Steven Rempel]

I am working on a Kohler 295 in a 73 jdx4. I want to replace the PTO crank seal. I have removed clutch and the ring gear. Which was one of the easiest clutches I have ever removed. But... the Ring Gear Hub does not want to move. I am trying to remove it as per the service manual using a puller (a quality puller). First attempt one of the bolts used to screw into hub snap off under the extreme pulling presser. I was able to remove the stud and try again but still not moving. I am scared of breaking something. The only method I know to stop the motor from turning over is to remove a spark plug and place pull cord rope down into the cylinder and then turn to near TDC, the rope stops motor from turning over and allowing me to use wrenches on the fly wheel for removal and on pullers. I fear this will end in disaster. I only use hand tools and never add cheaters in these situations. NO air impacts.

Motor is worth saving, 135 compression both sides and holds pressure on pressure test, but previous two owners have no idea how old seals are. So this is a better safe then sorry mission. Can't bare to see a kohler burn down to a poor choice of not changing seals.

need suggestion on a better method to stop engine from turning over while working on.(I dont have a tool like the one mentioned in service manual)

Also how to remove ring gear hub, can I use heat here on the hub (ie small Mat Gas torch)

Need help Thanks

Steven

[Steven Rempel]

So I got it off after some advice from a PM sent. He has had the same issues. and had some luck with heat.

It took two hours of heating and cooling, 5 sets of bolts, three busted knuckles, and one burn from not thinking when putting the torch down. but its off

[ljm]

Glad you got it. They can be stubborn.

[klonteig]

I had the same problem on my 300. I ended up making up a plate that could be bolted to an open hole on the block and then an open hole on the flywheel to hold it. Didn' take too long and it also helps when re-attaching the flywheel to get the right torque. You might want to make up one of these anyway. Nothing special - I think i used a spare joist hangar I had from building my deck and a pair of side cutters and a hammer to get the right shape. But it did the job....

[klonteig]

Here's a pic of what I scrapped together. Don't think the shape really matters. Don't even think the distance between the holes is really critical, but it worked for me. Probably 1/16 or 3/32" thick. Just has to be strong enough not to buckle on you.

[Steven Rempel]

Thanks for posting this pic for me i see what you are talking about now.

[Steven Rempel]

So I ran in to this problem of not being able to remove this ring gear hub again and broke a few sets of bolts. Not happy, so I set aside project and went to visit my Dad, and brought my 11 month old with.

I ask him what I could do to get this thing off. I have heated and cooled a few times and used high quality penetrating oil and let it sit for days, nothing. without hesitation Dad says have I tried using stainless steel bolts instead of reg bolts that come in the kit

So on way home stopped off at the "Bolt Store" (thats there real name), got some 1/4 inch by 4 inch S.S. bolts. Told wife she was on baby duty and gave them a try. I had to use an extension to get the puller bolt to turn and then POP all done.

So next time I am in the city, all new S.S. bolts for the puller kit.

Thanks oldtimer experience

[klonteig]

Glad to hear you got it work. Just be careful you don't try and torque down on the stainless bolts when using the puller - just torque on the center nut. Stainless bolts have a tendency to gall.