Stripped Clutch

[thekingofclubs]

Well... I lucked out and found a new exhaust for my JD300 using the forum here. I got it installed but thats where my luck ended. As per the suggestions I decided to replace my crank seals at the same time. Starting with the PTO side I removed the first retaining bolt holding the clutch on. After taking it out the outside sheave and rest of the clutch just came right apart in my hands. The big hollow bolt has almost no threads left on it and the internal threads on the clutch are completely gone.


Assuming I can even find another clutch, any ideas for how I can get this half of the clutch off now that it's stripped?

Attached a few pictures for reference.

[400brian]

You're saying that the threads inside the hollow nut are stripped? New nut would fix that.

Do you have a puller for the Salsbury?

[thekingofclubs]

No, it's the threads on the outside of the hollow bolt as well as the inside of the stationary sheave (the part a puller would thread into).

[Steven Rempel]

I can't say I have ever seen this happen, I would try welding a new nut in place, and then use the clutch puller to pop it off. so I think you might need two new nuts. one to use as a sacrifice. Then replace the parts as needed. I think I would have a spare nut if you want. But see if someone else comes up with better idea.

If you had a nut with good threads and turned it in all the way is there any threads that it could bite? may be JB weld the nut in place. and sacrifice it just a thought. just hold the nut in place with wrench and use another wrench on the puller. not that it needs to be said but never use a impact, IMO hand tool only in this case

I don't see how to do this a save the fixed half. I will think on this tomorrow while I am taking the two parts sled I just picked up both with 295s.

[400brian]

If I'm not mistaken, the puller threads into the hollow nut, ( at least the puller I have does ) this is a different set up from the Comet.

If the clutch is junk, you take your angle grinder and carefully cut it off the crank. Be aware that while the shaft and sheave are aluminum, there is a steel insert cast in the area that mates with the crankshaft.

Not all Salsbury parts are available, but the ones that are, seem plentiful. I have an NOS fixed for a 30 mm crank, with a used nut. This was a takeoff from a NOS clutch I bought for my '72 resto, but had to swap the 30mm fixed out for a 25mm.

Rainville has tons of the roller kits. The only thing I think is tough to find are the plastic sliders.

For the most part, no one will fight you for Salsbury stuff.

[thekingofclubs]

Thanks for the ideas guys! Brian I think you are on the right track. Cutting it off is looking like the best idea. I'm new to clutch work but from what I do know this one is already on its last legs. And yes, my bad,the puller threads into the nut not the sheave. Even if I get it off cleanly the internal threads on that shaft of the stationary are totally gone. I have a bolt with the same threads as the hollow one and it won't even grab.

The only other option I considered was tapping a new internal thread on the sheave and throwing in some round stock as a spacer and cranking down on a heavy duty bolt that matches the new threads. In any case I'd like to avoid damage to the crank.

Any input on what I should replace this clutch with? I suppose the classified board is in my future. I understand there are two taper sizes. How can I be sure of which it is I currently have?

[400brian]

All the Kohlers were 30mm as far as I know.

I'll part with the NOS fixed, I may have a complete used clutch around here as well. Like I said, Rainville has Salsbury parts for sure.

[JoeRainville]

Hi Guys,

Like Brian said, only the 72 Model 400, with the KEC 340 motor had a 25mm crank. All other Deere motors were 30mm. And I do have a bunch of NOS Salsbury parts, except I am sold out of the 780 moveable faces and plastic slides. I have NOS fixed halves, rollers, bushings, springs, covers, etc and sell them pretty reasonable.

Feel free to IM me here, or e-mail me at: joerainville@hotmail.com if I can be of any help.

Thanks, and good luck with your sled,
-Joe

[Steven Rempel]

Keep us posted on how it turns out. I think when you see the price of a tap that size and the cost of changing to a different new clutch. I think your jaw will drop. Find a used one and rebiuld or a nos

Cutting off is most likely the route to go. You could look up power block clutches. I think that was what someone suggested before.

I wounder what others are thinking about the comet 102 as an option. I have seen them on the JDX4s. I have one on a 300 but not ready to test it yet. They have the same motor but I havent done the research yet as to what else is diff . To many projects.

[thekingofclubs]

I'd be lying to you guys if I said I was comfortable with rebuilding/servicing a clutch. I'm mechanically inclined but this is new territory for me. I've came across an old Salsbury service manual that does show some info but I would feel better finding a complete used clutch and just tossing it on. Is it necessary to rebuild the guts of these things? Are there parts that slowly wear or is it a "it works or doesn't work" kind of system? Believe it or not even with the stripped threads this thing ran like a champ up until I took it apart haha.

I'm gonna make some calls and snoop around online for a complete salsbury in the meantime (780 right?). I'll keep you guys posted on how I make out! As always, thanks for the input, it's very helpful. I was ready to toss this 300 on Kijiji for parts when this clutch broke on me yesterday... Comes a time when you stop throwing good money after bad.

*edit* : the only numbers I can find on the clutch are "703 432"

[ljm]

I have a 300 I'm parting out. I'll check the clutch in the morning

[400brian]

The Salsburys seemed to work great on the low hp sleds. Our '72 had 2000 mi on it when I restored it, and found two broken springs inside. By all accounts it had never caused any problems, but it was wearing asymmetrically.

The plastic sliders wear, the rollers wear, the springs can break. The only special tool you need to work on them is a screwdriver with a hole drilled in the tip. This is to install the springs, without it will be an exercise in frustration.

You should have no problem finding a used clutch if that's the way you want to go. Guys will be throwing them at you.

[thekingofclubs]

Just closing the loop here. Thank's to everyone for the advice. I carefully cut the fixed half most of the way through with a cut off wheel. I finished the cut with a fine-toothed blade on a reciprocating saw to get as close to the crank as possible. Stuck in a pry bar and the clutch popped right off. Also got lucky in finding a used replacement fixed half here in town (thanks to the forum!). I got my PTO crank seal replaced and everything back together in no time. Of course, first test pull the recoil rope pulley snapped in half.... Always something. No wonder a guy can spend so much time on these things.

Thanks again

Cheers!

[Steven Rempel]

Really glade to here that it's working out for you. I tried to count the hours I spent fixing my frist 300. And compared it to riding hours. Big mistake, very poor 10 to 1. After my 3rd 300 was done you just find yourself fixing things weather they need it or not. Like recoils, brakes, lights, clutch and steering just to say a few. After you put your frist ture long distance ride on a sled you fixed and make it back with out a major brake down that since of accomplishment is the ture reward. Have fun at it. At this point I think I am closer to flipping that ratio around.